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Started using it at 38,000 - now have 147,000 miles.
well since im leaking im just going to go with regular oil for now until i decide to have the leak fixed. what would be the best non-synthetic that i could pick up?
Keep in mind that all the different kinds of oil have to meet the same federal standards. Even the cheap walmart oil has to meet this standard. I like Valvoline, but use whatever you want. Synthetic is great, but cost alot. I've used regular dino oil all my life and every single car I've owned had over 170,000 before I got rid of it. I think an engines durability is based on maintainence. Keep your air filter clean and change your oil every 3000 miles with a new filter and keep the oil level where it should be.
Originally posted by Den69RS96: Keep in mind that all the different kinds of oil have to meet the same federal standards. Even the cheap walmart oil has to meet this standard. I like Valvoline, but use whatever you want. Synthetic is great, but cost alot. I've used regular dino oil all my life and every single car I've owned had over 170,000 before I got rid of it. I think an engines durability is based on maintainence. Keep your air filter clean and change your oil every 3000 miles with a new filter and keep the oil level where it should be.
since i have a K&N don't thoes only need to be cleaned like,.. rarely. lol.
also, should i get a oil change even though my oil light hasnt come on yet? ive gone about 3,000 since i bought the car and im not sure when it was last changed
i use mobil 1 and a k&n everytime since i got the car(33,000) and now im a 41000 so far so good. the main thing is keep changing it on time. thats the most important fact.
<a href=\"http://cardomain.com/id/articacid\" target=\"_blank\">2002 35th Anniv. Black Camaro M5</a><br />Mods: Carsound Cat, SLP Loudmouth, Whisper Lid w/ K&N, J&M LCA\'s, ST Springs, eD Stereo(146.7 dB)<br />\'88 K1500 305 V8 Auto(Winter)
Originally posted by Den69RS96: Keep in mind that all the different kinds of oil have to meet the same federal standards. Even the cheap walmart oil has to meet this standard. I like Valvoline, but use whatever you want. Synthetic is great, but cost alot. I've used regular dino oil all my life and every single car I've owned had over 170,000 before I got rid of it. I think an engines durability is based on maintainence. Keep your air filter clean and change your oil every 3000 miles with a new filter and keep the oil level where it should be.
Finally, an intelligent post. Using synthetic isn't worth the huge additional amount of money for only small amount of additional protection. I read that in some magazine before and that was some professionals opinion after testing 2 vehicles, one with dino and one with synthetic.
Any oil will be fine as long as it has the API symbol on the back of the container. Some oils' additive will wear out a little faster than others, but if you change it regularly, you will have no problems. My prior car had 227,000 miles on it with dino oil and it never smoked.
Royal Purple was proven to actually give a good increase of power that was actually dyno proven. They added it to diffy, tranny and motor. But, it was shown to wear out by 1,000 miles.
And just because an oil is from a gas station doesn't mean it's not good. Chevron oil is good.
And adding Lucas additives is like adding any other oil additive to the motor, it THICKENS it, therefor higher oil pressure.
If you have those leaks, making your oil thicker would be a nice TEMPORARY solution for all those dime size drips. Adding some additives or switching to a thicken grade oil.
If you want to clean those drops of oil, use brake fluid or engine cleaner. There are other stuff out there, but those two are my favorite to use.
1999 Pewter Camaro M5<br />Y87 Performance Package, Sport Appearance Package, Diamond Clears<br />Factory SS Hood, Free Ram Air Mod, Whisper Lid w/ K&N Air Filter<br />CarSound Cat 94009, B&B Tri-Flo w/ Quad Tips<br />BMR SFC, BMR STB, KVR Blank Rotors, Hawk HPS Pads<br />Black Painted Calipers w/ CAMARO Decal, 245/50 Dunlop SP Sport 5000<br />20% Rear 35% Side Tint, Red Reflective Inlays, Invincishield<br /><b>Young girls avert their eyes, weak men tremble, Ford dealers faint.</b>
Oil: Any 10W-30 is fine for 3,000 miles, but you should probably use a "full" synthetic for extended drains. Any 10W-30 is NOT fine if you're running in really cold weather, but most of us don't do that with our cars.
Filter: Anything is probably fine for 3,000 miles, though I don't like what I see from torn-apart Frams at all-- even the Walmart "Supertech" is better-made. For longer intervals, I would use ones that are slightly better made: AC PF47 or 52 [long one], Purolator, Wix. I find the $10 filters [K&N, Mobil1, Amsoil] not to be worth the expense.
Using synthetic oil and expensive filters with 3,000 mile changes is probably a waste of money for most of us. I personally use Mobil 1 10W-30, and an AC PF52 filter, and change my oil every 5,000 miles. I also send my oil away for analysis, just to make sure I'm not wrecking the engine with my occasional drag-strip runs. :D
\'00 f-bird 3.8 M5 coupe, pewter metallic<br />Torsen LSD, Pro 5.0 shifter, Spec stage 1 clutch, Y87 muffler, aftermarket stereo<br />-more fun than the Oldsmobile it replaced...
IT DOESNT MATTER, use an oil that maintains oil pressure throughout 3000 miles.
i have talked with high performance engine builders and synthetic wont make your engine leak.
if it already leaks it might leak a little faster
take water and put it in a shampoo bottle and take a shampoo bottle with shampoo.... open both lids and watch how the water(synthetic), (not saying synthetic is water by no means) water will leak out faster, why because it is thinner.
but hey, close both lids and nothing pours out of either.
if you have a rear main seal problem, and dont want to fix it then i would suggest using regular oil.
high mileage oil has made my car run a little smother and restored my psi a little.
also, i get better oil pressure when i change my oil, drive it for ten minutes and then put good oil in.
walmart messed up one day and put crap in instead of castrol. they ran it a few minutes, then i told them to change the oil and put in what i paid $2 more for. they changed it and man it helps the oil pressure. your engine seems to run a little smoother and quieter.
and dont be like, "yeah lets put in 20W50 since it is thicker. our engines are label to take 10W30 for a reason. if you put thicker oil in an engine and hit high rpms for a long period of time the oil maynot be able to drain fast enough to the oil pan and ruin your engine.
mainly be smart and use what works for you.
as for me, high mileage Castrol 10W30 works great for me and even better if I do a kinda of a oil flush, then use the oil. watch your psi go up and engine run smoother.
96 Camaro 3.8 A4 Basemodel: 8 mm wires, Shift Kit, Hollowed <br />Cat(o2 sims), RKSport exhaust, IAT 5.6K resistor, Home Depot CAI<br />>>>15.375 @ 89.27<<<NEW BEST TIME <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552491\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552491</a>
anyone with experience with these filters on performance engines will tell you everything works with frame EXCEPT THE FILTERS, i have seen a few of them turn out to be just crap from personal experience
anything else but frame
96 Camaro 3.8 A4 Basemodel: 8 mm wires, Shift Kit, Hollowed <br />Cat(o2 sims), RKSport exhaust, IAT 5.6K resistor, Home Depot CAI<br />>>>15.375 @ 89.27<<<NEW BEST TIME <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552491\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552491</a>
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