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  • #46
    Originally posted by terminaldegree:
    Oil: Any 10W-30 is fine for 3,000 miles, but you should probably use a "full" synthetic for extended drains. Any 10W-30 is NOT fine if you're running in really cold weather, but most of us don't do that with our cars.

    Filter: Anything is probably fine for 3,000 miles, though I don't like what I see from torn-apart Frams at all-- even the Walmart "Supertech" is better-made. For longer intervals, I would use ones that are slightly better made: AC PF47 or 52 [long one], Purolator, Wix. I find the $10 filters [K&N, Mobil1, Amsoil] not to be worth the expense.

    Using synthetic oil and expensive filters with 3,000 mile changes is probably a waste of money for most of us. I personally use Mobil 1 10W-30, and an AC PF52 filter, and change my oil every 5,000 miles. I also send my oil away for analysis, just to make sure I'm not wrecking the engine with my occasional drag-strip runs. :D
    3,000 is too often for me, ive probably put that on in the last 1 or 2 months and i dont even have a job yet.

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    • #47
      I said i before I will say it again, MOBIL ONE.
      2005 Cavalier LS Sport M5<br /> <a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/firefighter8615\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/firefighter8615</a>

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      • #48
        i think i said it many times now since, i cant go with synthetic cuz of leaks .. [img]smile.gif[/img]

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        • #49
          Look, if you can't do synthetics because of leaks, and 3,000 miles is too often to do oil changes for you, you're likely shortening the lifespan of your engine. Especially considering how hard some of us drive our cars.

          Cheapest way out to do 3,000 mile changes: Walmart Supertech 3387A filter [$2.07], 4.5 quarts of Supertech 10W-30 or 5W-30 if you're in cold weather [5 qt. jug for less than $5]. Recycle the old oil [free at WM]. There. An oil change for $7. You can't afford THAT?
          \'00 f-bird 3.8 M5 coupe, pewter metallic<br />Torsen LSD, Pro 5.0 shifter, Spec stage 1 clutch, Y87 muffler, aftermarket stereo<br />-more fun than the Oldsmobile it replaced...

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          • #50
            what does WOT mean?

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            • #51
              id rather drive for another 1500 miles on teh same good oil with an additive then put supercrap in my engine. that stuff stucks and your oil pressure will drop off quickly. only use supertech for crap cars or a car you will sell quick and you want to say you just changed the oil.

              no ubertech for me.

              castol all the way baby
              96 Camaro 3.8 A4 Basemodel: 8 mm wires, Shift Kit, Hollowed <br />Cat(o2 sims), RKSport exhaust, IAT 5.6K resistor, Home Depot CAI<br />&gt;&gt;&gt;15.375 @ 89.27&lt;&lt;&lt;NEW BEST TIME <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552491\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552491</a>

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              • #52
                well hurry huyrry, still cant decide, so give me some easy answers that i can go pick up, cuz ive prolly gone 5k without a change

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                • #53
                  Given the way most of us drive, I wouldn't run any regular non-synthetic oil more than 5,000 miles period. Ever. Regardless of what brand.

                  It has been my experience that most regular oils start shearing/burning off after 3,000-3,500, even in lower-performance applications like my Oldsmobile [or my friends' cars].

                  If I had no money, I'd still do the $7 Supertech oil change and not leave it in longer than 3,000 miles. People like to rag on the stuff, but in both Virgin Oil Analyses and Used Oil Analyses of it, I have seen no problems with it in short [3,000 mile] oil changes.

                  Depending on where you live, the stuff is repackaged regular Mobil oil, or mixed by Warren Performance Products [an oil blending company]. For that matter, the Target "Car and Driver" branded oil is just regular Valvoline, from what analysis I've seen around the 'net.

                  Have we beaten this to death enough for you??? [img]smile.gif[/img]
                  \'00 f-bird 3.8 M5 coupe, pewter metallic<br />Torsen LSD, Pro 5.0 shifter, Spec stage 1 clutch, Y87 muffler, aftermarket stereo<br />-more fun than the Oldsmobile it replaced...

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                  • #54
                    Originally posted by terminaldegree:
                    Have we beaten this to death enough for you??? [img]smile.gif[/img]
                    X 200,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,00 0,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000, 000,000,000,000,000,000 :D :D
                    1999 Pewter Camaro M5<br />Y87 Performance Package, Sport Appearance Package, Diamond Clears<br />Factory SS Hood, Free Ram Air Mod, Whisper Lid w/ K&N Air Filter<br />CarSound Cat 94009, B&B Tri-Flo w/ Quad Tips<br />BMR SFC, BMR STB, KVR Blank Rotors, Hawk HPS Pads<br />Black Painted Calipers w/ CAMARO Decal, 245/50 Dunlop SP Sport 5000<br />20% Rear 35% Side Tint, Red Reflective Inlays, Invincishield<br /><b>Young girls avert their eyes, weak men tremble, Ford dealers faint.</b>

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                    • #55
                      [quote]Originally posted by F1GT:
                      Originally posted by terminaldegree:
                      [qb] Have we beaten this to death enough for you??? [img]smile.gif[/img]
                      no :D
                      so **** it, i should just go to mobil 1 and let it leak then?

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                      • #56
                        Git mobil 1 and let it leak.
                        Seals like the main seals won't leak that much more becasue there on moving parts, but seals like on the oil pan or valve covers can be cause after a while they leak then get cloged up with dirt. Synthetic cleans away that sealing dirt.
                        Def's
                        WOT = wide open throttle
                        RWHP = rear wheel horse power
                        FWHP = monkey sh/t
                        syn = synthetic
                        Mil = pre fix for a military spec part, could be metal, oil, fuel, a part or any thing.
                        LS1 = some thing that stomps the crap out of imports.
                        \'85 Z28, T-tops new LG4 and TH700<br />\'85 3.4L 5-speed<br />mods: <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4</a> the nitrous exhaust O2 safety, pg 3. <br />Areo space materal engineer wantabe

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                        • #57
                          i just did my oil change yesterday. i used mobil one synthetic(4.5 quarts) with a k/n oil filter.
                          my car has 70K on it.
                          Dave:
                          00 Supercharged Camaro - RIP
                          97 Turbo Camaro - Sold

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