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I've had a set of Rhino Ramps for about 4 years now. They've been great, until recently. Past two oil changes, one on my friends Bird and one on mine today, the f&#$ing ramps will not hold. Get about half way up and they just start sliding. Or you'll get one side up and the other will shoot out from under the tire (not completely) right before the top lip.
Any one else ever experience this? Sure is annoying...
i have had those problems with others cars. thats why i am going to build some metal or wood ones that the bottom extents past the back tires so when you start to go up, the back is holding things still [img]smile.gif[/img]
I had the same problem.
1) Scuff up the little rubber foot on the bottom.
2) Duct tape the back end (I added a couple of pieces of electrical tape).
The problem is that the car pushes the rhino ramp as it goes up. If the little rubber stop is smoothed out there's no friction holding the thing in place. Recreate that friction.
You can also try laying down some tape where you normally place the ramps.
<a href=\"http://members.cox.net/95batmobile/d86f.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">Sinister Six</a> <br /><b><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/c_o_jones\" target=\"_blank\">Cardomain</a></b><br />--This doesn\'t change the fact that I am ~The Guru~ who still kicks puppies...
drill a small 1" hole towards the bottom of the ramp, where the tire first hits. through that hole, put some rope, about 15' in length. run that rope straight back from the ramps when you want to use them. basically, your back tires will rest on the rope as you drive up, and the ramps wont slide out.
I have a 2x4 that was cut for shelf supports and they are the perfect length to go from my garage wall to the back of the ramps...
Joel<br />God is my copilot, but Satan has his foot on the gas!<br />94 3.4L AutoCamaroRagtop w/MSD ignition,Accelcoilpacks,K&N FIPK,BMR SFC&STB,3\"Catco w/3\"catbackSS muffler,JetStage 2,HomemadePIAAheadlightconversion <a href=\"http://www.geocities.com/cardiac1968\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.geocities.com/cardiac1968</a>
Make sure the little rubber pads are still there - I had both of mine fall out once, confused the heck out of me. We must have cleaned the dust off the floor three times before I thought to finger the ramps..
I also pull the car about 2' short of where I want to end up, then jam the front of the ramps under the wheels to preload the pads a bit, then just haul up without backing up any.
-Jeff
Drivetrain Moderator - "There are no stupid questions, only stupid people!"
2001 Pewter Firebird Y87, M5
Intake, exhaust, just about every suspension part, alum flywheel & ds, Turn One p/s pump and cooler
Black 1997 Camaro RS<br />Mods: Headlight, Fog Lamp, Blinker, and Tail Light Blackouts<br />35% Tint Window Armor (www.windowarmorusa.com)<br />Upcoming: Replace failing driver\'s window motor and Black Power Antenna<br /> <a href=\"http://members.ca
I am happy to announce that I have sold the site to Robert (FirebirdGT). Years ago this site went down when TealV6 had it, I bought it, refreshed it,...
Building the Tom Henry RS Part 4: Suspension Mods, Tires, Wheels, Headers and other Cool Stuff. By: Hib Halverson
At the end of Part Three, we changed the valvetrain of the 3.8-liter V6 in the Tom Henry RS. We installed new, Yella Terra "Ultralite" 1.8:1, aluminum roller rocker arms, Katech valve springs and Katech titanium retainers on our 3800 Series II V6. Ultralites are nearly 25% lighter than the stock 1.6 rockers and 8% lighter than the SLP aluminum...
02-07-2020, 11:30 PM
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