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What is the best way to knock out the rivets that hold the power window (the glass) to the metal bracket it is held on? Also, what size nuts and bolts should I use to replace them when I get the new bracket on. If someone wants to tell me exactly how they did it, that would be great too.
Thanks,
James
1995 convertible Firebird 3.8L, Silver w/Black Top<br /><br />Mods: 18x9 Mille Miglia Evo5 wrapped in 245/40/18 Continental ContiExtreme, Power Acoustic Gothic Series 640w amp, 2 10\" Fat Boy Crunch Woofers in custom fit box.
Generally I carefully drill out rivets. Pick a drill size a bit under the I.D of the hole, and drill through the center. You can then use some needlenose pliers to grab and twist out the remaining "shell" of the rivet.
Some like to use bigger drills, drill the head off, and push the rest of the rivet through the hole. I don't like this, because it's too easy to go into the material the rivet is pressed into.
-Jeff
Drivetrain Moderator - "There are no stupid questions, only stupid people!"
2001 Pewter Firebird Y87, M5
Intake, exhaust, just about every suspension part, alum flywheel & ds, Turn One p/s pump and cooler
I tried to drill them with my friend's dad's stuff, he is a mechanic for Delta Airlines, he said the rivets are probably steel, cause they wouldn't really drill, I sat there for about 10 minutes on one and hardly made a dent.
James
1995 convertible Firebird 3.8L, Silver w/Black Top<br /><br />Mods: 18x9 Mille Miglia Evo5 wrapped in 245/40/18 Continental ContiExtreme, Power Acoustic Gothic Series 640w amp, 2 10\" Fat Boy Crunch Woofers in custom fit box.
no, it's not a new window motor, it's the long bracket that the glass is actually held with, the part didn't come with the needed nuts and bolts.
James
1995 convertible Firebird 3.8L, Silver w/Black Top<br /><br />Mods: 18x9 Mille Miglia Evo5 wrapped in 245/40/18 Continental ContiExtreme, Power Acoustic Gothic Series 640w amp, 2 10\" Fat Boy Crunch Woofers in custom fit box.
Even steel shouldn't be too hard to drill through. I've had to machine titanium, tool steel, monel, and inconel before..
Get a fresh drill bit, dull ones are a safety hazard. If you want to make it even easier, get some tap fluid or other cutting fluid for lubrication, it'll help the cutting and keep things cooler, just a couple drops is all.
-Jeff
Drivetrain Moderator - "There are no stupid questions, only stupid people!"
2001 Pewter Firebird Y87, M5
Intake, exhaust, just about every suspension part, alum flywheel & ds, Turn One p/s pump and cooler
When I replaced replaced the window regulators in my camaro, I used a punch and hammer to knock out the center of the rivet, then a drill the remove the rivet's "jacket" (I don't know to call it), and then a hammer and flat head screwdriver to knock off the head and anything else of the rivet that was left.
<a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/edogg_127\" target=\"_blank\">1999 red 38000 Camaro</a><br />Leaking rear main seal (not really a mod though)
assuming the window is no longer intact, drill the rivets out. It shouldn't take you too long. Just drill on the side where the ball is until you get it drilled far enough to where you can punch it through. I used a cinderblock and my foot and a handdrill(I don't have much tools). Didn't take too long.
If you're replacing the glass then I really hope you have a "big daddy" rivetor. That's the only thing that will rivet a 1/4 rivet, and that's what you need. They're only about 200 bucks to buy.
Otherwise you can do what I did and use 1/4 inch bolts and selflocking nut(the ghetto way).
Good luck. Lemme know if you need any help, I just replaced my window about 4 months ago. You save a lot of money doing this job yourself.(as long as you're not a dumbass and break your first widnow like me :( I watched 250 bones just shatter into pieces in my grass)
- JT3<br />1998 Red V6 Camaro Y87 Y3F - J.E.T. Chip Stage II - Clear Parking Lights - Removed Grill - K&N - Whisper Lid - !FRA MOD - MAF Screen Removed - Pro 5.0 - Pacesetter Headers - Magnaflow Catback - 32mm Front Swaybar - And A System(bump bump)
hey, Thanks for the help, my window is still good, just not the knob that guides it on the wertical rail. Is there a way I can get the window out of the door while it is still attached to the metal window holder?
James
1995 convertible Firebird 3.8L, Silver w/Black Top<br /><br />Mods: 18x9 Mille Miglia Evo5 wrapped in 245/40/18 Continental ContiExtreme, Power Acoustic Gothic Series 640w amp, 2 10\" Fat Boy Crunch Woofers in custom fit box.
Put your window into its up most position (i.e. closed if your door were shut) put a block of wood or whatever is convenient into the door to ensure the window can't accidentally come crashing down. With the window all the way up then simply use a high nice high-speed hand drill to drill out the rivets. Make sure you use a bit just slightly smaller in diameter than the rivet. This will work as I have done it myself, however it can be a bit of a pain in the A$$ and you will likely break at least 1 drill bit so do yourself a favor and go to home depot and pick up a few cheap drill bits ahead of time because there’s nothing worse than having to stop right in the middle of this with a non functioning window and making a hardware store run.
Hey everyone! I've been trying to remove my transmission for two days now! I need to replace the clutch. Only thing I've got left holding the transmission...
4 weeks ago
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