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  • oil leaks?

    Ive got a 97 Firebird 3.8 with 50 K on it and its leaking from what seems more than one place.
    Kinda pissed cuz a car with that low miles shouldnt leak. Ive cleaned the engine off a couple of times
    to spot the leak but can never find exactly where its coming from.It seems as tho some may be at rear of valve covers but that doesnt seem bad enough to do the damage that it does.It drips onto the Y pipe between the engine and trans and stinks up a storm.Ive even pulled the bellhousing cover and run engine to see if its the rear main.

    How hard is it to change the valve cover gaskets and do these 3.8s have a problem with the rear main seal?Also have a leak in PS pump from what seems the tube thats pressed in the pump body on return line.

    On another note we just took our sons GTP in to dealer to fix the last of probs before the extended warranty ran out and they found 3 oil leaks on it,oil pan,rear valve cover,oil pressure sender. That car has had nothing but Mobil 1 and mechanic said the inside of pan looked like new,no metal,sludge etc.At nearly 100k I think thats a good thing.Dealer said book says 2.5 hrs on the rear valve cover of the GTP.OUCH

    [ December 31, 2004, 08:49 AM: Message edited by: v6droptop ]

  • #2
    Possibly some boost is getting in the crankcase and blowing out your seals? PCV valve okay?
    1994 Firebird 3.4<br />15.65 @ 86.8<br /><a href=\"http://www.funkz.net/firebird.htm\" target=\"_blank\">funkz.net/firebird</a><br /><a href=\"http://mywebpages.comcast.net/funkz/timeslips.htm\" target=\"_blank\">Timeslips</a>

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    • #3
      boost,what boost?
      My GTP has boost but the Bird droptop doesnt(L-36).
      Ive heard the GTPs had probs with rear valve cover
      so thats a given but dont know that much on the L-36
      in the F bodys,thats why I asked. I ll check the PCV
      in the Bird in AM.thanks

      Comment


      • #4
        Sorry, you didn't mention the Firebird in your post, I thought you were talking about the GTP. I'd still check the PCV, make sure it rattles and/or you can blow through it from the metal part out through the plastic part.
        1994 Firebird 3.4<br />15.65 @ 86.8<br /><a href=\"http://www.funkz.net/firebird.htm\" target=\"_blank\">funkz.net/firebird</a><br /><a href=\"http://mywebpages.comcast.net/funkz/timeslips.htm\" target=\"_blank\">Timeslips</a>

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        • #5
          Anyway back to the leaks I have. How hard is it to change the valve cover gaskets and do these 3.8s have a problem with the rear main seal?
          To get the vavle covers off your going to have to bend the engine brackets a little. These cars have big problems with rear main seals leaking.
          95 Camaro 3.8L Y2K motor <br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/coriya71\" target=\"_blank\">www.cardomain.com/id/coriya71</a>

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          • #6
            Funk Z sorry ,I fixed that.Reread post and see if its clear now thanks.
            Coriya 71,was there any campains to "fix" that problem if its a design flaw?
            I dont usually use any mechanic in the can stuff but
            will any seal conditioners work to slow this leak(if it is indeed the rear seal).

            Comment


            • #7
              Coriya 71,was there any campains to "fix" that problem if its a design flaw?
              Document ID # 538062

              --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

              ENGINE OIL LEAK AT REAR OF ENGINE #77-61-16A
              SUBJECT: ENGINE OIL LEAK AT REAR OF ENGINE NEAR FLYWHEEL COVER (REPLACE CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL HOUSING GASKET)

              ENGINE VIN CODE MODELS: 1995-97 BUICK PARK AVENUE, RIVIERA (VIN K) 1996-97 BUICK LESABRE, REGAL (VIN K) 1996-97 BUICK PARK AVENUE, RIVIERA (VIN 1) 1997 BUICK REGAL (VIN 1) 1995-97 CHEVROLET CAMARO (VIN K) 1995-96 OLDSMOBILE NINETY EIGHT (VIN K) 1995-97 OLDSMOBILE EIGHTY EIGHT, LSS (VIN K) 1996-97 OLDSMOBILE LSS (VIN 1) 1997 OLDSMOBILE REGENCY (VIN K) 1995-97 PONTIAC BONNEVILLE, FIREBIRD (VIN K) 1996-97 PONTIAC GRAND PRIX (VIN K) 1996-97 PONTIAC BONNEVILLE (VIN 1) 1997 PONTIAC GRAND PRIX (VIN 1) WITH 3800 ENGINE (VIN 1, K - RPO L67, L36)

              CONDITION:

              SOME OWNERS MAY COMMENT ABOUT AN ENGINE OIL LEAK THAT APPEARS TO ORIGINATE TOWARD THE DRIVER'S SIDE OF THE VEHICLE; REAR OF ENGINE.

              CAUSE:

              THE CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL HOUSING GASKET MAY BE SPLIT.

              CORRECTION:

              DIAGNOSTICS -

              1. INSTALL OIL DYE INTO THE CRANKCASE AND WARM THE ENGINE UP TO OPERATING TEMPERATURE BY DRIVING THE VEHICLE A FEW MILES.

              2. RAISE THE VEHICLE ON A HOIST WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING AND INSPECT FOR OIL LEAKS BY USING A BLACK LIGHT.

              3. SHUT THE ENGINE OFF AND REMOVE THE FLYWHEEL INSPECTION COVER.

              4. USE THE BLACK LIGHT TO CHECK FOR OIL LEAKS IN THE FLYWHEEL AREA. A LEAK IN THIS AREA MAY BE DUE TO A SPLIT GASKET ON THE CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL HOUSING.

              IF THE LEAK APPEARS TO ORIGINATE IN THE FLYWHEEL AREA, THEN REMOVE THE CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL HOUSING AND INSTALL A NEW GASKET AND A NEW CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL. FOLLOW THE PROCEDURE OUTLINED IN THE SERVICE MANUAL.

              IMPORTANT: ***DO NOT USE ANY TYPE OF ADHESIVE ON THE HOUSING GASKET WHEN REINSTALLING.*** THE PLASTIC INSERTS IN THE HOUSING ARE A MANUFACTURING ASSEMBLY AID AND ARE NOT REQUIRED FOR SERVICE.

              PARTS INFORMATION:

              FLUORESCENT TRACER DYE, GAS ENGINE OIL (1OZ.) 12345795 GASKET - CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL HOUSING 24507388 SEAL - CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL (LIP SEAL) 25534760

              WARRANTY INFORMATION:

              LABOR OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME J1080 HOUSING, CRANKSHAFT REAR USE PUBLISHED OIL SEAL - REPLACE LABOR TIMES

              FIGURES: 0 ATTACHMENTS: 0

              GENERAL MOTORS BULLETINS ARE INTENDED FOR USE BY PROFESSIONAL TECHNICIANS, NOT A "DO-IT-YOURSELFER". THEY ARE WRITTEN TO INFORM THOSE TECHNICIANS OF CONDITIONS THAT MAY OCCUR ON SOME VEHICLES, OR TO PROVIDE INFORMATION THAT COULD ASSIST IN THE PROPER SERVICE OF A VEHICLE. PROPERLY TRAINED TECHNICIANS HAVE THE EQUIPMENT, TOOLS, SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS AND KNOW-HOW TO DO A JOB PROPERLY AND SAFELY. IF A CONDITION IS DESCRIBED, DO NOT ASSUME THAT THE BULLETIN APPLIES TO YOUR VEHICLE, OR THAT YOUR VEHICLE WILL HAVE THAT CONDITION. SEE A GENERAL MOTORS DEALER SERVICING YOUR BRAND OF GENERAL MOTORS VEHICLE FOR INFORMATION ON WHETHER YOUR VEHICLE MAY BENEFIT FROM THE INFORMATION.

              COPYRIGHT 1997. GENERAL MOTORS CORPORATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

              © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.


              --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
              Document ID # 538062
              95 Camaro 3.8L Y2K motor <br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/coriya71\" target=\"_blank\">www.cardomain.com/id/coriya71</a>

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              • #8
                Thanks, Thats a TSB(tech service bulletin) but does GM have a campain to fix it as a freebie?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by v6droptop:
                  Thanks, Thats a TSB(tech service bulletin) but does GM have a campain to fix it as a freebie?
                  No. Expect to pay $5 in parts and $400 in labor, as they have to drop the tranny to fix it.
                  <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/kefkafloyd\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/kefkafloyd</a> <br />Red 1997 Pontiac Firebird 3.8L A4 w/ Y87

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                  • #10
                    sounds like a weekend job for myself.
                    Any tips to make it go smoothly?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by v6droptop:
                      sounds like a weekend job for myself.
                      Any tips to make it go smoothly?
                      Have a buddy with a tranny jack come over and bring some drinks, it's going to be an all-weekend project to do it if this is the first time you've dropped a tranny.

                      The only complicated part is dropping the tranny. Once it's down, take off the crank cover, pry the old seal out with a screwdriver and put the new one in and bring the tranny back up.

                      You might want to take this opportunity to do any work you've been meaning to do with your tranny like install a converter or clean it up.
                      <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/kefkafloyd\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/kefkafloyd</a> <br />Red 1997 Pontiac Firebird 3.8L A4 w/ Y87

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                      • #12
                        I did this 2 1/2 yrs ago with my bro in law who is a mechanic. As I recall, there was a line going into the tranny that requires a special tool to remove, otherwise you can't drop the tranny. Also, all the coolant came rushing out...so buy some coolant before you start. I changed the oil the following day, then 100 miles later I changed the oil again to make sure all the coolant was gone.
                        1999 Pewter Camaro M5<br />Y87 Performance Package, Sport Appearance Package, Diamond Clears<br />Factory SS Hood, Free Ram Air Mod, Whisper Lid w/ K&N Air Filter<br />CarSound Cat 94009, B&B Tri-Flo w/ Quad Tips<br />BMR SFC, BMR STB, KVR Blank Rotors, Hawk HPS Pads<br />Black Painted Calipers w/ CAMARO Decal, 245/50 Dunlop SP Sport 5000<br />20% Rear 35% Side Tint, Red Reflective Inlays, Invincishield<br /><b>Young girls avert their eyes, weak men tremble, Ford dealers faint.</b>

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                        • #13
                          Yea Ive done trannys before and plenty of rear seals.
                          But none of them were because of defective seals..just age and miles.
                          Come to think of it Ive put 2 rear seals in our 83 Blazer 4x4 which Im running 94 f body 3.4 running gear.
                          Have they changed the seal since 97 to fix that problem?Coolant in a tranny?
                          I ll have to look in the service manual to see whats up with that.Ill also look into that special tool you mention.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I'll let you know right now, this is a BIG job.
                            I did this project last spring. I couldn't tie up the garage for weeks on end, so I pulled the whole engine out.

                            Pulling the engine out of the engine bay is TIGHT, putting it back, EVEN TIGHTER. Getting the damn oil pan over the K-Member is just a huge *****.

                            Pulling the tranny off is a ***** too. You have to pull the tranny WITH the bell housing because the slave cylinder pokes though the bell housing, and it is attached from within.

                            Well you have things apart, might as well do the Rear main, valve covers and if yours needs it, the oil pan gasket also. After pulling it all apart, I decided I to do a new clutch too, even though mine only had 60k on it, just cuz I never wanted to do this again. :D

                            Well, if you need any help, just post here, there are plenty of us to help [img]smile.gif[/img] Good Luck!
                            1997 Cayenne Red Metallic Camaro<br />3.8 V6 M5<br />SLP Cold Air Intake<br />Ceramic Coated Pacesetter Headers <br />Flowmaster American Thunder Catback<br />Full 3.42 & Disc Break Rear End Swap

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                            • #15
                              Mine leaks from a similar location. I don't put many miles on the car, so I'm just going to let it leak.
                              <b>1996 Camaro 3.8 L, A4</b><br />bone stock

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