security dashboard light

[93v6firebird]

Hi,
I have limited access ot the internet so I dont feel like doing a search. I also do not have any literature about my car at school.
With that said, I have a dashboard light that says "security" what does it mean? how do I make it go off?
reset the PCM?
let me know...

[V6MaroFL]

It has to do with the passkey system and the chip on the key. First clean the little chip on your key real good and see if it goes away.

If not, it will become a major PITA the more you wait. Every once in a while your your car won't crank, you'll have to wait a few minutes and it will finally work. Then finally it will not crank up at all and you'll be SOL.

This happened to me, I ended up having to spend ~300 bucks for a new ignition cylinder and have a new key cut. Some will say there is simpily a wire that has been worn to the point of breaking, and it only starts because the motion of turning the key connects them and can be fixed by sodering(in my case, I don't see how this could have been the problem, considering in the beginning I would have trouble starting almost routinely only once a month, and after that it would be no problem.. I'd think if wires were severed it would happen more often..but I could be wrong). My mechanic also said this wasn't the problem and at least I think he's trustworthy.

[93v6firebird]

so what if cleaning my key doesnt work?

[V6MaroFL]

Like I was saying above, you will eventually have trouble starting your car. You'll turn the key and nothing will happen. The longer you wait, the more frequently this will happen.

I had somebody do it but if you feel comfortable taking it all apart, you could take out the ignition cylinder and inspect the wires and if you need to, put a new one in yourself.

[98Camaro3.8]

If you don't want to pay for the repair, you can disable the system yourself. Measure the resistance of the chip in the key and buy a resistor of the same value. Follow the white wire wrapped in an orange cover from the column to under the dash. Unplug the connector and insert the resistor. This will disable the passkey system, so it would be easier to hot wire.

[youngcamarokid]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 98Camaro3.8:
If you don't want to pay for the repair, you can disable the system yourself. Measure the resistance of the chip in the key and buy a resistor of the same value. Follow the white wire wrapped in an orange cover from the column to under the dash. Unplug the connector and insert the resistor. This will disable the passkey system, so it would be easier to hot wire.<hr></blockquote>


Umm....I'm not sure that this would work. Somehow I doubt GM would just put a resistor in our keys.

I have a feeling there's some sort of serial data superpositioned on a DC feed to create a GO/NO GO state in a computer somewhere on the car...

[camarofan]

On the earlier GM models they used VATS, vehicle anti-theft system, they embedded Resistor pellets in the key. Nothing is read from this but resistance. Over time from wearing and overall age, either the pill in the key or the contacts in the ignition cylinder wear and it reads an unacceptable resistance value. GM used 11 or 13 different resistance values for their cars. When the resistance value no longer falls between the accepted tolerances, the power is cut off to the fuel supply for 3-10 minutes.

By-passing it is not hard and not uncommon. I had to loop mine when I installed a remote start. I went to a local car audio/alarm installer, they measured the resistance in my key and sold me the right resistor for $5. Far better than the $300 plus I have heard mentioned many times. Or you can call a dealership and they can tell you your cars resistance value by your VIN.

Basically there are 2 thin white wires in an orange tubing that runs down the steering column. Don't mess with the Huge yellow one, it is the airbag and bad things can happen there. I just cut the 2 wires, then spliced the resistor in between the 2 wires that run into the dash, not the ones coming from the ignition cylinder. Just tape the 2 wires up that are still connected to the ignition, they hold no voltage and are useless.

Another benefit of this is the pilled key is no longer needed so if you need a spare key cut, it's about a dollar compared to the $30 for a dealership resistance key.

[speedy-v6-camaro]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by youngcamarokid:



Umm....I'm not sure that this would work. Somehow I doubt GM would just put a resistor in our keys.

I have a feeling there's some sort of serial data superpositioned on a DC feed to create a GO/NO GO state in a computer somewhere on the car...<hr></blockquote>

Do some research before you put someones idea down....many people have done the resistor trick after the ignition VATS wires seperate....why....because GM does put resistors in our keys. Only 15 different values too.

[93v6firebird]

I dont have any tools at school
Is it assured that soon I wont be able to start my car?
Approx how long do I have?
prolly started it 10-15 times since this problem arose.

edit: also could it have been a one time fluke that threw a code to the computer and I should try resetting the PCM to make it go away?

[ September 07, 2003: Message edited by: 93v6firebird ]</p>

[camarofan]

There is no time frame as far as I know. It's a matter of ohms. Resetting the PCM will have nothing to do with it. It could be a dirty key, rub the metal contact strips on your key with an eraser. I'm sure there is someway to clean the ignition cylinder, I'm not sure of one but maybe someone else could add some insight.

One thing you should try to do, before replacing it, use your spare ignition key. Odds are against both keys losing the resistance, so if it keeps up you are looking more towards the ignition going bad.

As for tools, you need a philips screwdriver, 7mm nutdriver, electrical tape, and something to cut and strip wires. The whole bypass process, if you are comfortable with wiring, shouldn't take more than 10 minutes. Drop the cover that is at your knees and all the wires are there.

It actually wouldn't hurt anything to go ahead and get a resistor and keep in your car as a just in case scenario. Maybe even take the cover off and learn where the wires are so when and if it is needed you will know what to do. If it is the ignition contacts and they do go out, atleast you'll be prepared and back on the road.

[93v6firebird]

Its def. in the ign Ive already tried the spare key.
Everyone who has had this problem can you guys give me an estimate on the time frame? I want to make it till mid october if possible..
if not I'll go to Autozone and borrow some tools.

[V6MaroFL]

I haven't been able to access the board in a while.. but to answer your question 93v6, I drove for a little over 8 months until the car consistantly refused to start. Going until october shouldn't be a problem.

[silvachris1]

Here's what I had to say about it in another thread:

quote:
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Originally posted by Silvachris1:
No No No No No! I had the same problem with mine, and assumed that it was the key going bad. Incorrect assuption and it cost me 27 bucks for a new key. The PASS KeyII ignition switch has two contact points inside that touch the chip on the key. On the back side of the switch is a tiny openeing where two white wires run into the switch and go to the contacts. One of your wires is only hangin on by thread. Everytime you turn the switch, the broken wire is prolly barely touching and still working, but ocassionaly it doesn't have enough contact to make a complete circuit. The way PASS KeyII works is that your ignition key has a resistor chip in it and your switch measures the resistance. If the resistance is incorrect, the car wont start. I don't know if that is due to the ignition switch or if it is due to the computer or what. Anyway, here's a picture of my previous ignition switch. http://speed.supercars.net/avatars/17878.jpg You can see where the broken wire was, it snapped down in a recessed area of the switch. I took a X-ACTO knife and stripped the broken wire down in the recessed area and then stripped the othere end of the boken wire, and filled the recess with super glue ans pushed the two stripped ends together. After it set, I checked with an OHM Meter to see if contact was being made around the whole switch. Tadaa. It worked. So now I have a spare. It's VAT 4, just incase your curious. The list price on a new ignition switch is 56 dollars from the shop that replaced mine. The Ignition Switch, Master Key, two Ignition Keys, and all the labor was 276 dollars. Waaay too much in my opinion, they charged for testing the switch after they installed it. Anyway, that's my story, anybody feel free to correct my if I made a mistake about the way PASS KeyII works or whatever, cause I've been typing a long time and who knows.
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That's how it was in my situation man. Good luck man, you got a couple months left at best.

[navyblue2000]

resetting the PCM has worked for me in the past.

if not, disconnect/reconnect the battery

[tmays]

If this only happened once, I wouldn't go thru the hassle of doing anything (the key could have been wet / shoved in too hard, whatever). If the car works fine and the problem doesn't recur, just leave it alone. Just my 2 cents [img]smile.gif[/img]