Starting Problems and some advice too... - FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com Message Board

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Starting Problems and some advice too...

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Starting Problems and some advice too...

    For the past few months, I have been having a problem with my car starting. Sometimes, one push of the 'Engine Start' button will get it to fire and other times, it takes 2-3, sometimes 6-7 pushes to get it to engage the starter solenoid. Well, the other day it finally went out and when I hit the 'Engine Start' button, nothing happens...it doesn't engage the starter solenoid at all.
    I figured that the solenoid had burned up so I took the starter out tonight to replace it and I ran into something that I couldn't believe. The power wire that goes from the battery to the starter has been resting on a header tube. The conduit and heat wrapping were burned through and about 1/3 of the wire has been burnt/broken. This wire is in the exact place that it was stock and this is how the wire was resting when I found it.
    My threory now is that the bare wire touching the header tube has been creating a ground for the power so it's not getting to the starter.

    Here are some other things I have done to find out what the problem is:
    -With the push button ignition, there is a relay. I replaced it temporarily to rule out as a possibility and it didn't fix it.
    - I took a voltage reading off of the wire leading from the neutral start switch to the starter solenoid and it read 12V when the 'Engine Start' button it pushed. (Reading taken at the neutral start switch)
    - I did a continuance test on the wire running from the neutral start switch to the starter solenoid to make sure that the power was getting ot the solenoid. Everything checked out okay.
    - I tested the old starter and it fire fine when 12V is supplied to the mail pole, the casing is grounded and 12V is applied to the throw-pole on the solenoid.

    I am looking for other suggestions for what else I could try. You can rule out ignition switch and Key Lock and Cylinder because I have the push button ignition which bypasses those parts.

    I am planning on reconnecting the old battery with with the burnt area to see if it remedies the problem and I will let everyone know what happens.

    Also, little advice to all 3.4L V6 owners with headers, check this power wire to the starter to make sure that it is not touching your headers. There is a wiring retainer holding the wire to the motor mount which is VERY close to the headers. Just a little advice...
    - Josh<br />If you have any questions or need installation pics/help, e-mail me: Viper98885@aol.com<br /><a href=\"http://Camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/viper98885\" target=\"_blank\">\'93 Camaro Hardtop</a><br /><a href=\"http://Camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/01lincolnls8\" target=\"_blank\">\'01 Lincoln LS8 Sport</a><br />\'00 Yamaha YZF-R6<br /><a href=\"http://www.ftpp.net\" target=\"_blank\">Full Throttle Performance</a>

  • #2
    Did you check the voltage AT the starter, after the burnt section of wire. If enough of the wire is burnt through/corroded, the wire's resistance (and resultant voltage drop/current limitation) may be enough that the starter will not turn.

    If you can, connect the + lead of your volt-meter directly to the big terminal on the starter, and the - lead to a convenient ground. With the starter button pushed, you should still read around 10 to 12 volts when the starter is cranking.

    If the voltage drops much lower, you probably should replace the wire, as it is likely the cause of your problem.
    ...it\'s lonely out in space...

    Comment


    • #3
      <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by rockotman:
      Did you check the voltage AT the starter, after the burnt section of wire. If enough of the wire is burnt through/corroded, the wire's resistance (and resultant voltage drop/current limitation) may be enough that the starter will not turn.

      If you can, connect the + lead of your volt-meter directly to the big terminal on the starter, and the - lead to a convenient ground. With the starter button pushed, you should still read around 10 to 12 volts when the starter is cranking.

      If the voltage drops much lower, you probably should replace the wire, as it is likely the cause of your problem.
      <hr></blockquote>

      Oh yeah, forgot that in the original post. Voltage is fine at the main pole of the starter.

      Problem is fixed by the way...
      There was a 12V+ connection that was corroded so power wasn't being transferred to the push button ignition's relay. Car starts fine now.
      - Josh<br />If you have any questions or need installation pics/help, e-mail me: Viper98885@aol.com<br /><a href=\"http://Camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/viper98885\" target=\"_blank\">\'93 Camaro Hardtop</a><br /><a href=\"http://Camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/01lincolnls8\" target=\"_blank\">\'01 Lincoln LS8 Sport</a><br />\'00 Yamaha YZF-R6<br /><a href=\"http://www.ftpp.net\" target=\"_blank\">Full Throttle Performance</a>

      Comment

      Latest Topics

      Collapse

      FORUM SPONSORS

      Collapse
      Working...
      X