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I've decided that it's time to replace the brake pads and disk. I've got a buddy that works at a performance brake shop and he is going to get me some new disks and slot them for me for fairly cheap. I'm going to do it myself because it seems like it is an easy enough job. Anyone please give opinions. I don't really want to start and then find out it's a sh*t load harder than I thought it would be. Thanks.
pretty simple just unbolt the calipers. Usualy two bolts on the inside facing towards the engine. Use a set of big channel locks or a clamp or something like that the push the caliper piston back into caliper take the old pads out and put the new ones in. Now about the rotor I'm not totaly sure about that. I can't remember if you have to take the barrings out to remove the rotor or not. Let me look it up real quick.
Thanks a bunch guys. I'm planning on doing it this weekend, no time during the week with school and all. Any suggestions on brake pads and brand rotor or anything?
pads: i like delco for some odd reason, but any pad i've ever used has been fine.
rotors: you're going to replace them again in 2 years anyway! if you're getting rotors with slots or dimples it's always best to get ones that have those features already in the casting, as opposed to being added later... but those rotors tend to be way up there in price, even compared to stock replacements.
just remember, they're your brakes... no place to cut corners or scrimp!
For the 93-97 you're going to need a 3/8" hex wrench or bit to get the calipers off. And a large C-clamp to compress the pistons. Other than that it's easy.
Usually you only bleed the lines if you open them which introduces air and moisture. If the system has never been opened then they don't need bleeding. If you aren't sure, then you should bleed them.
There is a bleed screw near each caliper. Have someone pump the brake pedal 3 times, then squeeze and hold it. While the pedal is down, open the screw until the pedal hits the floor. Then tighten the screw and release the brake pedal. Repeat at all 4 corners.
1999 Y87 Camaro<br />Whisper Lid, SLP SS Takeoff Exhaust
So I'm confused. FunkZ sez we don't need to bleed the lines and i'm pretty sure we don't. So.. do we? For sure? Because I plan on installing new pads/rotors in the not-too-far-future and I am by no means a big brake man.
Tom<br />Too many mods for this sig.<br /><a href=\"http://www.l337server.com/Tom/cars.html\" target=\"_blank\">My car\'s site</a><br /><br /><a href=\"http://www.FullThrottleV6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.FullThrottleV6.com</a>
I've only had to bleed my brakes twice, once when I swapped the rear end and once when I swapped both front calipers. If you don't open the lines there's no need to bleed them.
Yeah you don't have to bleed the brake lines if all your doing is just changing pads and rotors.
Once you have everything back together (and before you jump in and drive away), make sure to step on the brake pedal a few times till you have a firm pedal again.
Hey everyone! I've been trying to remove my transmission for two days now! I need to replace the clutch. Only thing I've got left holding the transmission...
Hello, so I changed the front bearings on the bird and the ABS inoperative light came on. I made a mistake of not removing negative battery cable. Now...
I usually have to double, triple my headlight switch for them to come up on my 97 Firebird. I cleaned all connections. Could it be the headlight switch...
3 weeks ago
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