FREON IS R134A, R12, R22, R410a and so on. If you dont know what your talking about think before you say. Oh and you dont need to JUMP the switch unless it is bad and plan on leaving it jumped then. As soon as you connect the bottle of freon, the lines are pressureized and the compresser sould come on. If the compresser wont, you have other problems. AND PLEASE DONT BE A SMART *** WHEN IM TRYING TO BE NICE AND HELP YOU. I AM A LICENSED HVAC SERVICE TECH.
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<a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261</a> Green 1997, 105k, all stock except for Z28 front springs, Air shocks in the rear, home made coolant recovery tank, home made battery hold down.
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Victimization, take BobbyZ72's advice, he knows what he's talking about. It's not much money to have the systems evacuated and re-charged. I had an R-12 to R134A conversion done by a mechanic and it was only about $100 a few years back. So it's no big deal, and it's easier than risking your AC system. Plus if you jump the compressor with no refrigerant or oil in there you'll probably kill it. The safety switch is there for a reason.2002 Silver Firebird A4<br />T-Tops, Leather, Y87, W68, Chrome Wheels<br />Bone Stock
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Originally posted by BobbyZ72:
FREON IS R134A, R12, R22, R410a and so on. If you dont know what your talking about think before you say. Oh and you dont need to JUMP the switch unless it is bad and plan on leaving it jumped then. As soon as you connect the bottle of freon, the lines are pressureized and the compresser sould come on. If the compresser wont, you have other problems. AND PLEASE DONT BE A SMART *** WHEN IM TRYING TO BE NICE AND HELP YOU. I AM A LICENSED HVAC SERVICE TECH.
im not being a smart ***, i know what im talking about. I have no idea what you are trying to tell me. If you are licensed in all of this stuff, than you of all people should understand what im trying to do.
ALL I WANT TO KNOW IS WHAT WIRE I JUMP TO GET THE COMPRESSOR TO TURN ON.
thats all i ask,
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Originally posted by Rob Bell:
Victimization, take BobbyZ72's advice, he knows what he's talking about. It's not much money to have the systems evacuated and re-charged. I had an R-12 to R134A conversion done by a mechanic and it was only about $100 a few years back. So it's no big deal, and it's easier than risking your AC system. Plus if you jump the compressor with no refrigerant or oil in there you'll probably kill it. The safety switch is there for a reason.
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WHAT IN THE WORLD ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT? Whos talking about converting your system?? Your correct with your carsomain name..."imverystuped"<a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261</a> Green 1997, 105k, all stock except for Z28 front springs, Air shocks in the rear, home made coolant recovery tank, home made battery hold down.
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Originally posted by BobbyZ72:
WHAT IN THE WORLD ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT? Whos talking about converting your system?? Your correct with your carsomain name..."imverystuped"
I had an R-12 to R134A conversion done by a mechanic and it was only about $100 a few years back.
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Just for grins, what pressures do you plan on charging your system to high and low sides vs.out door temp? What about the subcooling and superheat, what do you plan to set them at? By the way, buy a drum of FREON, those little cans you plan on using contain mostly oil and leak sealent, the compresser will use more power and go out from chugging oil. And if you dont pull that vacuum down, you going to cause acid and destory your complete system.<a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261</a> Green 1997, 105k, all stock except for Z28 front springs, Air shocks in the rear, home made coolant recovery tank, home made battery hold down.
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oh if you have pressurized the lines and the compresser still wont turn on, replace the pressure switch, see if that does it. You dont want to bypass the switch, if you do during the winter you put your defrost on, the evap coil will ice over and liqued freon will get back to the compresser and kill it. The low pressure switch turns off compresser when the coil gets too cold or if freon levels are low. The high pressure switch turns the compresser off if the high pressre gets too high such as a very hot day, or if not enough air is moving across the coils. On my car i have both a high and low pressure switch. My 99 car had both the low and high pressure switchs built together on the high side of the freon lines. If the switch is bad, replace it, or if you want, cut the wires and wire nut them together. But doing it this way WILL couse problems in the future.<a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261</a> Green 1997, 105k, all stock except for Z28 front springs, Air shocks in the rear, home made coolant recovery tank, home made battery hold down.
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My apologies folks, I guess I was not clear on my point. I know you're not trying to convert, since we already have R134a..... my point was that to have someone evacuate and recharge the system, PLUS do a conversion, was only $100. Much easier and safer than tryng to do it myself.2002 Silver Firebird A4<br />T-Tops, Leather, Y87, W68, Chrome Wheels<br />Bone Stock
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Originally posted by Rob Bell:
My apologies folks, I guess I was not clear on my point. I know you're not trying to convert, since we already have R134a..... my point was that to have someone evacuate and recharge the system, PLUS do a conversion, was only $100. Much easier and safer than tryng to do it myself.<a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261</a> Green 1997, 105k, all stock except for Z28 front springs, Air shocks in the rear, home made coolant recovery tank, home made battery hold down.
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Originally posted by BobbyZ72:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Rob Bell:
My apologies folks, I guess I was not clear on my point. I know you're not trying to convert, since we already have R134a..... my point was that to have someone evacuate and recharge the system, PLUS do a conversion, was only $100. Much easier and safer than tryng to do it myself.
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Thats the one my 99 model had, right now with my 97 i have two, with only two wires on each. Im guessing here, but i GUESS jump all of them together. Im thinking thats its some kind of combination high and low pressure switch. But when you pressureize the freon lines with freon the compresser sould come one, there should be no reason you have to jump it. I recommed you replace that switch and presserize the lines and see if it comes on then.<a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261</a> Green 1997, 105k, all stock except for Z28 front springs, Air shocks in the rear, home made coolant recovery tank, home made battery hold down.
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