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  • Help with power window motor replacement

    I am using the Howto found here:

    http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html

    Everyone said this is the guide that makes it easy.

    I have a 99 so I am not sure what year of car this guide is using, but my 99 seems different.

    How did the hell did he get this picture:

    http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor10.html

    ???

    I have no access to my power window motor whatsoever. It is in between the outer part of the door and the inner access panel. There is no way to it. Even if I do manage to get it out I see no way to put the new motor in there. The whole inner panel of the door is part of one solid piece that is the door. What am I missing?

    I can see the motor but have no access to it.

    My door is all apart and I really need some tips or something.
    SLP CAI, K&N, Whisper Lid, 180* thermo, manual fan switch, 3.42 gears, Auburn Pro LSD, Wester\'s PCM Tuning, TSP Rumbler, High Flow Cat. Best Time: 9.909@71.58 (1/8 mile)

  • #2
    Have you drilled the 3 holes to remove the rivets like the write up says? Motor gets removed throught the opening where the speaker belongs. Here is a pic of my door.
    http://groups.msn.com/pontiacnino/sh...oto&PhotoID=21

    Don't panic! It's simple. ;)
    ---Niño---<br /><i>95\' silver 5 spd</i>

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    • #3
      You'll never see that picture, that's just from inside the door so you have an idea of where everything is. Just drill the three holes in the fiberglass where they tell you to and you'll have access to the rivets.
      2002 Pewter V6 Camaro M5 <br /><br />Quickest stock-motor N/A V6 4th Gen F-body.<br />2nd Quickest N/A V6 4th Gen F-body overall.<br />mods: Gear, weight reduction, tuning <br /><br />Fear the Gear. 13.585 @ 100.05 1.827 60\'<br /><br /><br /><a href=\"http://www.NJFBOA.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.NJFBOA.org</a>

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      • #4
        Ok, I got it.

        Motor is in and window works again! Really sucks to have t-tops and not be able to use them because you don't want to look stupid with your window up!

        Window is down, t-tops are off! [img]smile.gif[/img]

        Thanks!
        SLP CAI, K&N, Whisper Lid, 180* thermo, manual fan switch, 3.42 gears, Auburn Pro LSD, Wester\'s PCM Tuning, TSP Rumbler, High Flow Cat. Best Time: 9.909@71.58 (1/8 mile)

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        • #5
          didn't have rivits on my 96. 3 or 4 bolts held it in place. I would check to make sure before you start drilling.
          flowmaster 80<br />catco highflow cat<br />b&m ripper<br />homemade cai<br />accel 8.5 mm wires<br />hypertech 160 thermostat<br />reprogrammed PCM<br />rockford fosgate and sony<br />centerforce dual friction clutch<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/838896\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/838896</a>

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          • #6
            my 96 had rivets..someone must have changed yours
            The confusion surrounds me <br />change is imminent<br />if I were they<br />we could be great

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            • #7
              Originally posted by venom:
              didn't have rivits on my 96. 3 or 4 bolts held it in place. I would check to make sure before you start drilling.
              That means someone likely changed your window already.


              I have a '00 that guid worked perfect. It helps to remove the speaker.
              -Eric<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/mustangeater82\" target=\"_blank\">2000 NBM V6 Camaro 5-speed</a> T-top <i>converted</i><br /><b>14.467@95.45mph</b> <i>$0 in mods</i><br /><i>The member formerly known as MustangEater8251</i>

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