The secret to spark plug replacement?

[Pathogen]

I'm overjoyed that I've got two of six done, but what's the trick?

Specificlly, the Right Rear spark plug (#6). I don't have AC and I still can't reach the thing!

[twofaced]

Please, no underlying motives in your posting. Turn the other cheek to understanding --navyblue.

I changed mine today, all six, and changed my oil in less than an hour. Get your socket, socket wrench, and the extension addapter. My secret is, and it isnt much of a secret, but I place the socket on first, then the socket addapter(if needed)and wrench. I use the Number 13 brush on antisieze additive to keep the spark plug from getting wedged in there because of heat, I forget the name of that antisieze stuff but it makes it easier to get the dang things off. When I put the plugs back in, I put the stuff on the treads, place the plug in the socket, screw it in till its firm, then put the addapter extension (if needed) and socket wrench on then tighten it down. I have gotten it down to a science I think. I have to do mine again in a week or so, since I will installing different plugs for the nitrous system i bought, so sux to be me too. Hell i will do it tonight if you want, I am only about an hour away, let me know, LOL.

[ September 19, 2003: Message edited by: navyblue2000 ]</p>

[merlinsrealm]

taking them out isnt so much the problem but rather trying to get them back in.....My secret, use a rubber hose small enough to push over the tip of the spark plug snug. It will help you to thread the new plugs in without having to be tripple jointed........

[zlexiss]

Also, make a good mental note what angle the old plug came out at - it will help you when you're trying to thread the replacement in straight.

I kind of lead with my index finger to find the hole, and then stick the plug in there and start turning, rather than using the plug to find the hole.

[97rs]

does anyone have the slp "modified socket" that is modified for a spark plug. its a socket but you have to use a closed end wrench to tighten/loosen, not a ratchet. i bought it, and it was very helpful on 2 or 3 plugs, but i dont know if it was worth $20. also a swivel extension helps.

[MustangEater8251]

wierd I did my plugs and wires in abotu 30 minutes, with a bathroom break [img]smile.gif[/img]

[silvachris1]

Nevermind.

[ September 21, 2003: Message edited by: silvachris1 ]</p>

[zlexiss]

You might be able to make one yourself for pretty cheap. Just take a short extension, saw the socket end off it where you would fit the wrench in, then grind a couple flats on the shaft.

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 97rs:
does anyone have the slp "modified socket" that is modified for a spark plug. its a socket but you have to use a closed end wrench to tighten/loosen, not a ratchet. i bought it, and it was very helpful on 2 or 3 plugs, but i dont know if it was worth $20. also a swivel extension helps.<hr></blockquote>

[malice10985]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by zlexiss:
You might be able to make one yourself for pretty cheap. Just take a short extension, saw the socket end off it where you would fit the wrench in, then grind a couple flats on the shaft.

<hr></blockquote>

I have the SLP header socket. IT works great.
I tried to saw a regular socket in half at first, but those sockets are REALLY hard. I think the SLP socket was worth $20.

My secret to quick spark plug swaps: Do the driver side cylinder bank from under the hood. DO the passenger side from underneath the car.

[awesomeame]

i did mine for the first time like two weeks ago, and i had no probs at all. took me about 20 mins to uninstall & reinstall them. i used a normal (not altered) socket, 3" extension (where required) & 3/8" ratchet. i have a/c.

don't use anti-seize on your plugs, or anywhere where it gets hot. that crap can cause hot spots & thereby stress in a concentrated area, leading to metal fatigue/cracking/breakage.....damage. i dunno how sensitive cars are on this topic, but in aviation (including my company) has had problems with this stuff causing cracks in the combustion liners on turbine engines. just fyi.

drive your car till it's hot, then remove the plugs. they'll come out easy-peasy. you can put on a set of mechanics gloves if you want--i didn't, 'cause you only have to hold the plug long enough to set the thing down on a table....i have no burns [img]smile.gif[/img]

--matt

[chas]

you shouldn't need anti-sieze on a cast iron block. a thin film of motor oil on the threads should be enough.

[k mac]

Need to change mine soon.Im glad it doesnt take 6 hours like i was told by the dealer. [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

[awesomeame]

[img]graemlins/omg.gif[/img] 6 hours? [img]graemlins/bs.gif[/img] prolly at $90/hr too, eh?
[img]graemlins/thumbsdown.gif[/img]

--matt

[twofaced]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr> Please, no underlying motives in your posting. Turn the other cheek to understanding --navyblue. <hr></blockquote>

LOL, I went up there, nice car, nice setup, but 98's are different, no room at all. I see what you all been talking about. But its a nice ride, nice setup if they can get the bugs worked out of it. Dont quite get what navyblue was getting at, and dont want to assume anything either, but isnt it nice to be able to black and bold in someone elses post, GET YUR OWN MAN, LOL. But hey, I finially got to meet some Fbody v6 owners, now we all just got to meet up at a track somewhere, hehe. My 2 cents again, and I was worthless. To be honest, with all the stuff done to that car, I was skert to touch it. I'd prolly have broken something.

Side note, are you guys/girls talking about spark plug anti-sieze? Its made for spark plugs use?

[ September 21, 2003: Message edited by: twofaced ]

[ September 21, 2003: Message edited by: twofaced ]</p>