Ok, I'm burning oil. What do I do next?

[Skinny]

I've noticed that over the last 2 months I've burned a quart of oil. I don't notice any smoke from my tailpipes and my friends don't notice any when driving behind me. I have no external oil leaks, or at least no spots on the garage floor. My dad said that he noticed a little smoke from the tailpipes right as I was leaving the house once.

What do I need to do so I can figure out what the problem is? Tomorrow I'll make sure there's no oil in the coolant, and I'll be changing my spark plugs by Friday. What else do I need to check?

[Dr Todd]

Could be the valve seals located in the heads. While the car sits overnight or for a couple hours, depending on how worn the seals could be,the seals would allow oil to drip into the cylinders. When the car is started the excess oil is burned creating a temporary blue smoke.

One way to test is to have someone stand behind the car and watch for blue smoke while you start the car for the first time in the morning. OR let the car idle for a few minutes or stand in traffic and then rev it up fast, just to 3,500 or 4,000 rpm, and have someone watch for smoke.

Sounds like a lot of oil for a valve seal leak, but it is a quick test.

[ June 12, 2002: Message edited by: Dr Todd ]</p>

[Skinny]

Would a compression test help in diagnosing this problem?

[Shadly]

I'd spend a buck every two months and add some oil when needed.

[v6maro]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 96BeastV6:
Would a compression test help in diagnosing this problem?<hr></blockquote>

That is only going to check to see if your ring on your piston is junked, and if it was, you would notice it.
-Steve

[Tiago]

some cars just "drink" some oil Ive noticed the trend, but Im glad mine doesn't do it [img]smile.gif[/img]

[Jason]

Well I baught my car used...had 9000 miles on it. I switched it from Conventional to Synthetic oil...and ever since its eaten a court of oil. Im thinking i might go back to the regular stuff just to see if that stops it. If not...ill just deal with it

[DominusEtDeusNatus]

Changing oils might help. Don't use Mobil 1 synthetic if you have leaks. It's on the thin side. Try Maxlife 10W30. It's really a synthetic even though it doesn't say it and it's cheap.

[Dr Todd]

:eek: What.... Valvoline Maxlife a synthetic!
When I was thinking about using this oil I visited the Valvoline web site. The spec. sheet read that Maxlife is a made of base oils. Also, on their "frequently asked questions" section, someone asked valvoline if Maxlife is a synthetic and the reply was "no". I may have to investigate this further.

Anyway, I have nothing against Maxlife.....I now use it in all three cars. It even helped slow an oil leak in the one with 115,000 miles.

Oh.....96Beastv6, a compression test would not hurt. It would tell you about the condition of the piston and rings but I dont think it would help with the valve seals. The seals are not in the combustion area but around the valve stem.
I am not a mechanic so if you take your car to the shop ask them about how to check for valve seal leaks.

[ June 13, 2002: Message edited by: Dr Todd ]

[ June 13, 2002: Message edited by: Dr Todd ]</p>

[v6maro]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Jason:
Well I baught my car used...had 9000 miles on it. I switched it from Conventional to Synthetic oil...and ever since its eaten a court of oil. Im thinking i might go back to the regular stuff just to see if that stops it. If not...ill just deal with it<hr></blockquote>

don't do that, once you go synthetic you can't go back, you'll f a lot of stuff up man
-Steve

[Jason]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by v6maro:


don't do that, once you go synthetic you can't go back, you'll f a lot of stuff up man
-Steve<hr></blockquote>

And why is that? If you read the label on all the New synthetics it says that they are COMPLETELY compatible with Conventional oils. Only thing i can see causing problems is the fact that Synthetics are/seem thinner than conventionals.

[Shadly]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Jason:


And why is that? If you read the label on all the New synthetics it says that they are COMPLETELY compatible with Conventional oils. Only thing i can see causing problems is the fact that Synthetics are/seem thinner than conventionals.<hr></blockquote>I agree. If they mix, big deal. You'll have a synthetic blend. You can go back.

[DominusEtDeusNatus]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by v6maro:


don't do that, once you go synthetic you can't go back, you'll f a lot of stuff up man
-Steve<hr></blockquote>

I've gone back and forth. There are many blends out there. According to that theory, blends will harm stuff. PLUS, I can bet you any money that you will not be able to name the "real" synthetics from the ones that are just labeled so cause they meet the specs.

Do you know what a synthetic really is? The protection packadge is the main thing I look at. All of them have different base oils.

Amsoil, Mobil 1, Redline, and NEO use PAO/Ester formulations for base oils. Those are the only real synthetic oils.

I'm going to run Maxlife only because it has moly along with great protection packadge. Then I'll do an oil analysis and if I like it I'll be sure to make a post.

[Skinny]

When I changed the plugs there wasn't any oil on them. Does that tell you anything? Still haven't gotten around to the compression test.