SICK of burning WIRES!!!

[Need4Camaro]

My car has been running through em like Twizzlers pull and peels in just the matter of a week! It's just so hard to keep those wires away from the manifolds. I unfortunately can't afford $50 heat sheathing and boot protectors... Any other way to beat the heat? Also I have a wire thats just burned on the end... It's long enough where I can cut it at that point and it will still reach... is there a way I can cut it and put the metal end that clicks to the plug on the new end and the boot over that?

[FireFighter]

If you keep burning them you will end up spending more than $50 to replace them. Bite the built and buy the right stuff.

[ February 04, 2005, 02:15 AM: Message edited by: FireFighter ]

[Renzo]

Originally posted by Need4Camaro:
50 heat sheathing and boot protectors...

I'm changing my spark plugs and wires too. What are these heat sheathin' things and boot protectors?

[shenanigans]

I got a 6 foot roll of sheathing form summit for $30

thats 1 foot per wire, more then enough.

as for heat sheathing stuff...

read this
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78028

[kahouna23]

best thing to do is route the wires EXACTLY like they come from the factory. I changed my wires and figured that if I routed them differently, it would get better protection from the heat. I was WRONG and out $80 for MSD wires. They burnt up after a week

[Need4Camaro]

Originally posted by kahouna23:
best thing to do is route the wires EXACTLY like they come from the factory. I changed my wires and figured that if I routed them differently, it would get better protection from the heat. I was WRONG and out $80 for MSD wires. They burnt up after a week

Whats the stock way? Mine came with wires scattered all over the place and when I did a tune up I found some of them burned...

[kahouna23]

In that case, ask a friend that has a V-6 to take a look at how the wires are routed. The route of taking the wires over the fuel rail to the right side isn't a good idea. They're routed under the rail with plastic sheathing around them to prevent chaffing. Going over the fuel rail also causes the need for a longer wire. For the best performance, a certain lenght is recommended for each cyclinder. That's why you should match up each wire as you take it off. If you're using a wiring kit, I would recommend purchasing a pre-made set of wires....match them up, then return them back to the store. Just so you can get the exact length. It might sound extremely stupid, and not logical, but it's true. Just trying to help you learn from my "bad experience". I'm almost certain that there will be people who don't agree with what I've said, so take it or leave it. I'd be more than happy to help you further, if so hit me up with an email..... Good luck

[arthansen]

I was having problems with wires and my headers. I finally got a set of 8mm wires that you have to put the ends on. It is an Accel kit and has 8 wires plus a coil wire. This gave me 4 extra ends that are made to fit on the coils. These connectors are 90* and will fit on the end of a spark plug. I used these on 4 of the 6 wires were a 90* connector kept the wires off the headers.

I ended up with 4 wires with 90* connectors on both ends and 2 wires with 90* conectors on one end and the standard strait connectors on the other. My wires are never closer then 1" to the headers at any point.

[Die Ford V8]

GET A CLUE

DO NOT ZIP TIE THEM TOGETHER BUT,

take large zipties and ziptie them away from your manifold. i changed my wires once 40,000 miles ago and there isnt a bit of heat on them. my stock ones burned up due to "stock" configurations.

if a pan is hot dont touch it, ziptie your hand AWAY FROM THE PAN.

if you have to use a few zip ties. i put the wires where they came stock and ziptied them farther away.

it doesnt take a genious, sorry if i sound blunt, but it really doesnt

[kahouna23]

Originally posted by Die Ford V8:
i put the wires where they came stock and ziptied them farther away.

that makes sense.... Therefore, verifying my point that making the wires longer to make clearance to avoid the heat is NOT the way to go. Like he said though, DO NOT ziptie the wires together.

[Need4Camaro]

Howcome you don't ziptie your wires together? I did exactly that... I also rerouted the number 6 wire to the back of the engine because I can't get it under the passenger side manifold without it burning up...

I'm going to buy some new wires and heat sheathing. I was looking to spend about $45 maybe $50 at the most for some 8mm wires, what should I be looking for? With heat sheathing how far do I have to route away from the manifolds?

[kahouna23]

The main reason you don't want to ziptie the wires together is because of the "electrical field" if you will, around the wire. It's the same concept as not running an amp power wire next to a speaker wire. You'll get feedback like crazy. Each wire should be isolated from eachother as much as possible for this reason. Also, if you were to happen to have a faulty wire that's arching, it will cause the wire it's next to, to fail. When wrapping the wire with sheathing...wrap it about 3 inches from the manifolds. That should be sufficient.

[v6droptop]

thats called cross fire
one reason the factory used plug wire seperators

[shock_core]

whats wrong with ya'll cars? my stock wires and plugs work great.. 57k and still kicking...

[Need4Camaro]

Well if I can't zip tie them how am I going to keep them together and away the manifolds? there's no other seperators around the engine bay... and there's nothing I can ziptie any specific wire too under the manifolds because #1 it's real tight squeeze between the block and manifold, barely an inch... and what little is there is too close to the manifold to zip tie it too...

Any other ideas?