I was wondering where you guys get the 160* thermostat. Do you guys just get the ls1 version of it from hypertech.com? I don't see one on there for the 3.8 so I was wondering if you guys just use v8 160* thermos. PLMK, and sorry if there was a post on here about this before, I did a search but didn't see to much about what version you guys purchase. Thanks
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http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...TNUMBER=100160
There's the link. I got it, and my engine temp gauge shows noticably cooler.
-Justin<b><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/drkmind11\" target=\"_blank\">2000 Red Firebird Coupe, A4.</a></b> ((3.42 Gears, LSD Stock))<br />Details: 3\" Edelbrock Exhaust, 3\" Catco Cat,160* Thermostat, 8% Tint, TA Chrome Wheels, Viper 550.
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Hey justin....does it matter that it says that it is for front wheel drive 3.8L v6s? It probably doesn't matter, cuz it is still the 3.8, but I don't wanna buy it and find out it doesn't work with the camaro engine.
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Nope, not at all. That's the exact model I got, and everything fits just perfectly. If you want, Dominic has an install guide on his page that makes it a little easier if you haven't worked im the engine bay before.
http://www.angelfire.com/my/fastcar/powerstat.html
-Justin<b><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/drkmind11\" target=\"_blank\">2000 Red Firebird Coupe, A4.</a></b> ((3.42 Gears, LSD Stock))<br />Details: 3\" Edelbrock Exhaust, 3\" Catco Cat,160* Thermostat, 8% Tint, TA Chrome Wheels, Viper 550.
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alright sweet, then I think I am gonna place an order then. Thanks for the help
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That's true. It's good to keep your old 195 around for the winters if the 160* doesn't do it. Since it's such a quick switch, I am comtemplating putting the 160 in for the most of the year, but having the 195 in for the colder 1-2 months of the year.
-Justin<b><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/drkmind11\" target=\"_blank\">2000 Red Firebird Coupe, A4.</a></b> ((3.42 Gears, LSD Stock))<br />Details: 3\" Edelbrock Exhaust, 3\" Catco Cat,160* Thermostat, 8% Tint, TA Chrome Wheels, Viper 550.
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I'll be ok in the winter, I store it....the RS body would plow snow in the winter. My baby has been stored every winter since it was new...got an old grand am winter beater, lol, its rusted out, but it gets the job done.
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There will be no perfomance gain, only lots of issues.
1) PCM will think the car has not reached the correct operating temperature, therefore your air-fuel ratios will be off accordingly. Whether or not this will aid in perfomance is a question, but it will most likely affect your gas mileage in a negative way.
2) Oil is designed to work best at certain temperature range. Why do you think most damage happens when engine is cold? Because oil is too thick when it's cold, therefore creating lubrication issues.
3) Combustion in colder engine might be slower and air might be expanding less, due to cylinder walls being colder (that's just a theory, however).
4) Detonation (ping) shold not occur when you're using correct fuel octane rating for given compression ratio.
5) You might have more blow-by, due to piston rings not being expanded enough (heat - expand, cold - shrink). More blow-by = less power.
I presented arguments against, now I'd like to hear arguments FOR having colder running thermo.
[ October 13, 2003: Message edited by: ka50 ]</p>
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Go with a 180 man.
Like it has been said, you will have problems with a 160 thermo.
You can pick up a stant superstat for a couple bucks at autozone, they work perfect.<b><a href=\"http://members.cox.net/95batmobile/d86f.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">Sinister Six©</b></a><br /><a href=\"http://www.sounddomain.com/id/95batmobile\" target=\"_blank\">My \'95 Bird</a><br />I am not afraid of storms, for I am learning how to sail my ship.
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Ka50, you are exactly wrong. Well, let me soften that... I have seen dynos that show cars with the 160 have MORE power than those with the 195. A hotter engine has less power. Also, when I installed the thermostat I gained 1.5mpg.
It has shown better power, and I can show you records of how I got better gas mileage. Also, I have driven 25,000 miles on my 160*, in all weather and driving conditions and I have had NO problems with it whatsoever.
P.S. This has been discussed to death, and overall there are a variety of opinions, but most lean towards the 160 being better.
-Justin<b><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/drkmind11\" target=\"_blank\">2000 Red Firebird Coupe, A4.</a></b> ((3.42 Gears, LSD Stock))<br />Details: 3\" Edelbrock Exhaust, 3\" Catco Cat,160* Thermostat, 8% Tint, TA Chrome Wheels, Viper 550.
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1) PCM will think the car has not reached the correct operating temperature, therefore your air-fuel ratios will be off accordingly. Whether or not this will aid in perfomance is a question, but it will most likely affect your gas mileage in a negative way.
.....This is the main reason people get more power - the car is designed to run a bit lean for mileage/emissions, and fooling the fuel injection gives you a bit more power and a bit less mileage. Both are pretty small changes. Not worth it, IMHO.
2) Oil is designed to work best at certain temperature range. Why do you think most damage happens when engine is cold? Because oil is too thick when it's cold, therefore creating lubrication issues.
......The difference in oil temp where it's working is too small to worry about.
3) Combustion in colder engine might be slower and air might be expanding less, due to cylinder walls being colder (that's just a theory, however).
.......Good theory. It's one reason why guys tend to run pure race cars at the high end of the temperature range. If you can get the air/fuel mixture right and keep the intake mixture cool, there's more power there.
4) Detonation (ping) shold not occur when you're using correct fuel octane rating for given compression ratio.
.......Don't know about this one.
5) You might have more blow-by, due to piston rings not being expanded enough (heat - expand, cold - shrink). More blow-by = less power.
.......Think. Wouldn't it be cylinder walls cooler, rings fit tighter? Actually I bet the materials involved are chosen so clearance doesn't change much with temp.2000 Firebird convert, chameleon/tan, M5, Y87, TCS, BMR tower brace and panhard, KBDD sfcs, 245/50-16 GSCs
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Actually with a 160 therostat you car won't go into open loop mode and your mileage will be worse. There might have been other issues there Justin Kirkham that made your mileage go up.
I don't think you'll see much of a different between the 180 and 160 anyway... my car runs pretty cool with a 180, if I am short driving it my temp gauge won't even go past the middle of the first 2 marks (somewhere around 170).<b><a href=\"http://members.cox.net/95batmobile/d86f.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">Sinister Six©</b></a><br /><a href=\"http://www.sounddomain.com/id/95batmobile\" target=\"_blank\">My \'95 Bird</a><br />I am not afraid of storms, for I am learning how to sail my ship.
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Doesn't computer programming correct for all of this? I have a HPP3. It would be way too much to buy one just for the thermostat however.-Eric<br />2002 Navy Blue Camaro...Striped and Stalled. 35th Anniversary SS wheels <br />Best ET: 15.384 @ 88.32 on street tires<br />Project Whitney: Goal, 14.0 1/4 by summer 2008.
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