HELP! Car Won't Start!

[AznL32]

I went to go start my car this afternoon and it didn't feel like it. It clicked a few times and then just went dead. I left the key in the on posistion and everything cleared off the display except SES and Check Gages. I think the battery might be dead because one interior lights was on (strange how I don't remember ever touching this switch for how long I've owned the car). Not wanting to take chances, any other reasons why it might not start? Plugs, wires, coils? Sorry this so long.

[99Camaro99]

battery and/or alternator. That's your clicking sound.

[Seal]

mine wouldnt do anything when my batteries were dead, not a thing... check the battery wiring cuz i had a similar car wont start problem, and it was cuz of a loose battery wire

[ June 22, 2002: Message edited by: seal ]</p>

[strange_trp]

you are describing what's known as a "no crank" condition. this is different from a "cranks but no start" condition, because your engine is not even turning over.
yours is a 94 model, which leads me to believe that an aftermarket battery is in there. you need to have the battery fully charged and load tested first. this may be your problem.
if your battery is fine (ie tests fine, AZ and a bunch of other places test batts for free), check resistance of the wire that goes from batt + to the starter. should be very little resistance there. there should also be no corrosion around your batt (+) terminal or on the terminal screw. remember that you ALWAYS want to disconnect the power from any wire you're testing the resistance of, so you'll want to disconnect the neg batt terminal first.
if resistance of batt/starter cable is good (a few ohms or less) and the batt tests good, chances are the starter motor and solenoid assembly is bad. however, most textbooks will tell you to disconnect the ignition system and attempt to turn the crankshaft by hand (with a socket and breaker bar, of course) before condemning the starter. i agree with this practice, but the possibility of hydrostatic lock or valve/piston interference seems very UNLIKELY in your case.
you can remove the starter motor assembly and bench test it (or have AZ or somebody bench test it for you for free) to make sure its bad before replacing. while the starter motor is removed from the engine, check the teeth on the pinion gear of the starter and (more importantly) check the teeth on your flywheel. again, disconnect ign system and turn crank clockwise with socket and breaker bar on crank pulley bolt. look for missing teeth, cracks, etc. any time you take the starter motor off you should inspect all of the flex plate/flywheel that you can.
so many people just throw a starter or battery at a problem like this without testing components first. i've seen people (neighbor) spend like $300 replacing both his battery and his starter when the problem was really just a very corroded wire from the batt to the starter. test before condemning.
also check batt to body and (more importantly) batt to engine block ground. do this by testing resistance of ground circuits with power disconnected. a poor engine ground could also the condition you're experiencing.

in other words.... test batt, starter, and electrical circuit before throwing parts at the problem.

edit: things that WILL NOT directly cause a "no CRANK" condition include fuel system, ignition system, alternator, any emissions control device. a faulty PCM or body control module MAY cause a no crank condition because of the PASS-KEY II system. however, in your case, lights are coming on on the dashboard and you are hearing a clicking noise when you try to start it. this means its trying to start. the anti-theft stuff cannot be the cause in your situation.

[ June 22, 2002: Message edited by: strange_trp ]</p>