How do I make my Heater blow really hard and really hot? Is there any modification I can do?
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The t-stat has nothing to do with how powerfull/hard the air blows and also how hot it is. The t-stat just allows the coolant/water to flow at a lower temp, nothing more, nothing less. So give it up with telling people that it's always the t-stat. As far the question goes, their are independent units that act like a heater core without the drain on the engine and all, also increasing the volume/how fast your coolant flows can change the temperature. AS far as how hard it flows maybe one of the other members can help you out on this one. The independent unit can do this but I'm not sure how much they cost and all. Good luck. Let us know what you find out.1994 Camaro<br />3.4L V6 Automatic<br />K&N FIPK&Gold Oil Filter,Ravin Performance Exhaustw/Dynomax MandrelBent3\"I-Pipe&S Pipe&Catco 3\" HiFlow Cat.,ASP Crank and High AMP Alternator,U.D. Pulley Set, Bosch Spark Plugs and Oxygen Sensors, Taylor Wires, B&M E.ShiftPlus, 160 thermostat,Zexel Torsen L.S.D., CSI Remote Mount Electric Water Pump & Temp. Controller & Flex Hoses, ALM. Drivshaft, Diamond SubFram Conn.<br />COMING SOON: 350 or 502 RAMJET ENGINE & Big Block Hood<br />NJ V6 F-Body Club<br /><a href=\"http://tristategm.com/NJFbV6/\" target=\"_blank\">http://tristategm.com/NJFbV6/</a><br />Street Lethal F-Body Association <br /><a href=\"http://www.slfba.com./index.html\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.slfba.com./index.html</a>
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by pgriffith:
There is nothing wrong with my heater now it works exactly how GM built it to work. It is not broken. I simply want to modifie the crap out of it because it is starting to snow and is very cold. Any other ideas?<hr></blockquote>
You could possibly overdrive the blower motor with a unit like the boost-a-pump. This is made for overdriving fuel pumps (up to 15 volts output vs 12 volts I believe), but it may not be able to handle the high current draw for a hvac blower.
It would be difficult to rig an additional blower due to space and having to tie it into the existing ductwork.
There are supplemental heaters that can run off the battery, or are plumbed into your coolant system. Theoretically you could plumb a heater to the back half of the car somewhere.
Or just drop one of those big kerosene blowers in the back... :D Just wear a metal helmet because it will burn off all your hair in about two seconds though!!
Seriously though, the heater air will come out hotter if you go with a higher temp thermostat. In really cold weather, your coolant temp will never exceed the thermostat temp, because the thermostat will open and let the hot coolant out to the radiator, drawing in the cold coolant that's been sitting in the radiator. Since your coolant will never exceed 160 degrees, your heater core will never see more than 160 degree coolant. Hotter coolant in the heater core will give you hotter air in the car.\'98 A4 Camaro v6->v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>
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The thermostat has everything to do with how hot your heater blows. The is a linear relation of the heat dissipation of your heater core as the coolent temperature increases. By using a higher temp thermostat, you are effectively keeping the coolent in the engine block in longer until it gets to a higher temperature. That is where you heater draws the hot coolent. It is drawn from the engine, circulated through your heater core, and put back into the engine. It is still going through the water pump, just not the radiator. Been a while since I have actually studied it, so there could be other things that I am missing out on.1995 Firebird 3.8 A4, 140,000 miles and going strong<br />Basically Stock, college=poor <p>Junior Mechanical Engineering Student: Milwaukee School of Engineering; Cpl, MN Army National Guard...just got promoted :)
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If you want warm air....pull the 160 thermo....I had it in my car and I could never get enough warm air to keep my toes from freezing (in SC that doesn't get that cold).
I have a 180 thermo now and get plenty of heat....Joel<br />God is my copilot, but Satan has his foot on the gas!<br />94 3.4L AutoCamaroRagtop w/MSD ignition,Accelcoilpacks,K&N FIPK,BMR SFC&STB,3\"Catco w/3\"catbackSS muffler,JetStage 2,HomemadePIAAheadlightconversion <a href=\"http://www.geocities.com/cardiac1968\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.geocities.com/cardiac1968</a>
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Well I think he is aiming for air flow not just temp...He wants MORE AIR and WARMER AIR...The t-stat is simple...Any ideas on mass air flow...Were talking blow dryer..
[ October 31, 2002: Message edited by: edge24_99 ]</p>\"If I have seen further, it is by standing upon the <br />shoulders of giants.\" (Isaac Newton)
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