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  • Made my first homemade CAI...Also found a problem...

    Good News -
    4" - 3" Rubber Boot
    Two 90 Degree PVC 3" Elbows
    One 13" long 3" diameter PVC pipe
    Chrome Paint
    One 3" - 3" Non Hub Rubber Connector (Connects the filter to the PVC)
    Ricer Cone Filter
    About $35 total, and I must say, WOW!!! INCREDIBLE difference! When you start it up you can hear it sucking in air. Accelleration is SO much smoother and agressive. It's a bit of a tight squeeze though, I scratched my hand all up so I recommend you painting it while it's IN the engine bay and just cover everything around it up...

    Bad News
    When I opened my stock intake, it was FILLED with OIL!!! It was dripping from the MAF and I sprayed some seafoam (I had actually planned on seafoaming my car that day aswell)... I cleaned what I could without taking off the MAF Screen.
    I had been getting soem crappy accelleration and poor throttle response (gas pedal felt fleshy)prior to this. Anyone have any idea as to how this happened? My oil level is full when I checked the dipstick. How do you take off the MAF Screen and will it simply just go back on or do I need some type of gasket or glue or something?
    1997 Camaro RS W/T-Tops<br />All Stock / 200 HP

  • #2
    There is a little ring holding the MAF screen on. You just need something pointy to close it and remove it, just hold your hand over it so it does go flying away when it releases. Then take a paperclip, bend it and stick it through the screen and pull forward. Just be careful not to bend any of the fins.

    Putting back in is opposite.

    As far as the oil in your intake, I can't tell you what caused that, but I'm sure someone else will.
    2002 Pewter V6 Camaro M5 <br /><br />Quickest stock-motor N/A V6 4th Gen F-body.<br />2nd Quickest N/A V6 4th Gen F-body overall.<br />mods: Gear, weight reduction, tuning <br /><br />Fear the Gear. 13.585 @ 100.05 1.827 60\'<br /><br /><br /><a href=\"http://www.NJFBOA.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.NJFBOA.org</a>

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Need4Camaro:
      Good News -
      4" - 3" Rubber Boot
      Two 90 Degree PVC 3" Elbows
      One 13" long 3" diameter PVC pipe
      Chrome Paint
      One 3" - 3" Non Hub Rubber Connector (Connects the filter to the PVC)
      Ricer Cone Filter
      About $35 total, and I must say, WOW!!! INCREDIBLE difference! When you start it up you can hear it sucking in air. Accelleration is SO much smoother and agressive. It's a bit of a tight squeeze though, I scratched my hand all up so I recommend you painting it while it's IN the engine bay and just cover everything around it up...

      Bad News
      When I opened my stock intake, it was FILLED with OIL!!! It was dripping from the MAF and I sprayed some seafoam (I had actually planned on seafoaming my car that day aswell)... I cleaned what I could without taking off the MAF Screen.
      I had been getting soem crappy accelleration and poor throttle response (gas pedal felt fleshy)prior to this. Anyone have any idea as to how this happened? My oil level is full when I checked the dipstick. How do you take off the MAF Screen and will it simply just go back on or do I need some type of gasket or glue or something?
      If you never plan on putting the MAF screen just stab it with a screwdriver and pull it out, much easier than trying to pry the pos clip.

      Comment


      • #4
        filled with oil or just a film on the inside? if you over filled your oil you will have oil in your intake. i over filled mine by a little over a quart on accident and had a decent amount of oil on mine.

        i think all it is is massive blowby or oil pumping into a place there is already too much oil(valve cover)

        this last sentence is just an educated guess. so dont quote me.
        96 Camaro 3.8 A4 Basemodel: 8 mm wires, Shift Kit, Hollowed <br />Cat(o2 sims), RKSport exhaust, IAT 5.6K resistor, Home Depot CAI<br />&gt;&gt;&gt;15.375 @ 89.27&lt;&lt;&lt;NEW BEST TIME <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552491\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/552491</a>

        Comment


        • #5
          The oil in the TB comes from the PCV valve.
          <b>Black</b> 1998 Pontiac <i>Firebird</i> A-4 swap<br />271.4rwhp/259.4rwtq NA<br />13.30@102.44 <br /><a href=\"http://www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98\" target=\"_blank\">www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98</a>

          Comment


          • #6
            hi i'm new to this sight i also have a 1997 rs with the y87 package do you have any pics of your intake?

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by project97:
              hi i'm new to this sight i also have a 1997 rs with the y87 package do you have any pics of your intake?
              I'll get some when I can...

              I love these car's, especially the Y87's...

              It's a bit of a tight squeeze so you may find alterations easier. If you want to do it... buy these parts...Also note that the part with an Astereck behind it have an optional replacement...

              1 - Drill (or anything that can cut a good sized hole into rubber

              2 - 3" Diameter PVC 90 Degree Street Elbows

              1 - 3" Diameter 13" Long PVC Pipe

              1 - 4" to 3" Rubber Connector

              *1 - 3" Diameter 3" Long PVC Pipe

              *1 - 3" to 2.5" Rubber Connector -OR- anything that can exstend to 3.5 inches in diameter on one end and reduce to 2.5 inches in diameter on the opposite end, the stronger the material the BETTER. I used a strong 3" diameter rubber band I found at Autozone.

              1 - Hi-Flow AirFilter of your choice (I just used the ricer cones "Intimidator") Needs to have a 3" Connector

              Then you place the pipes like this -

              - Cram the 13" long PVC between the radiator and the the bottle neck area where your old intake came off, It won't be easy, if you can't cram it from atop then level it with the bottom of the most opening (just above the radiator hose) and push in from there until it's adjustment between the throttle body and the air inlet hole on the driversside front of the engine bay...

              - Attatch 4" - 3" Rubber Connector, 3" Side to 90 Degree Elbow...tighten TIGHTLY with a 8mm socket or 5/16's socket

              - Attatch 90 Degree Elbow to 13" PVC, position to alaign with throttle body... Alaign and attatch 4" side of Rubber Connector to Throttle Body

              - Attatch 4" - 3" Rubber Connector, 4" Side to throttle body and position as best as you can...tighten TIGHTLY with a 8mm socket or 5/16's socket... Drill a hole for the AIT Sensor into the rubber and hidden PVC...If you want to clean it you'll need to take the 4" - 3" off for cleaning, I personally said screw it, the bit are too big to make it through the MAF screen. Place the AIT when the hole is big enough... *&lt;BECAREFULL!!!&gt;* The AIT sensor IS FRAGILE!!! I crammed hard enough to break the protective head... LUCKILY for me it still worked even unprotected...

              - Connect Filter using the following means... If you have a HARD surface 2.5 inch to 3 1/4" connector...Simply place it inside the filter and DOUBLE clamp it...(remember it's always going to be facing downwards... you DON'T want to run over your own filter now do you?)
              If you're forced to use rubber or a soft surface make sure it's strong but flexible, can connect anything between 2.5" and 3.5"... Connect the Rubber OUTSIDE the filter Hub and DOUBLE clamp it TIGHT! If possible put a open restraining cylender on the INSIDE of the nozzle of the filter so it's own restraining stress doesn't thin it out so much that it spits it out. Attatch this to your leftover 90 Degree Elbow and double clamp if possible, if not a single should hold it okay. Test it out by holding it by the PVC and jerking it around harshly. Knock on the Filter and make sure it doesn't move... Remember if it moves while your hand moves it, then I can just about gauruntee it'll quickly find its way under your wheels.

              - Install by manuevering the attatched PVC under the driverside fender, with one hand guiding the attatched PVC Elbow / Filter to the Air Inlet Hole where the old filter used to be. Use one hand to guide it through and one hand over the engine bay to feel to make sure it's through.
              Pull through then connect to 13" PVC. It may take a bit of jimmying around but once it's in it's a good fit.

              *- Optionally you can attach the filter and a rubber connector to a 3" long 3" Diameter Straight PVC Pipe so your filter goes deeper down... the deeper it is, the more open the area which means more air, also cooler air... HOWEVER You don't want it TOO deep or it will start collecting dust, dirt, and water at a much more faster rate... Attatch the straight pipe to the 90 Degree Elbow... oh... and DO use glue for this portion since you're working against gravity and carrying that heavy filter...
              1997 Camaro RS W/T-Tops<br />All Stock / 200 HP

              Comment


              • #8
                Hey I need chrome paint. for high temps.

                body shop guys are stupid hicks and painted the tips of my exhaust!! so im gonna scrape it off and if I can paint them im going for it!

                where did you find yours at?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Justin B.:
                  Hey I need chrome paint. for high temps.

                  body shop guys are stupid hicks and painted the tips of my exhaust!! so im gonna scrape it off and if I can paint them im going for it!

                  where did you find yours at?
                  Although I'd imagine you could find High Temp Chrome paint, I just used a base chrome paint because it doesn't get anywere NEAR as hot on the intake as it does near the engine or the exhaust...
                  1997 Camaro RS W/T-Tops<br />All Stock / 200 HP

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