Best Oil

[navyblue2000]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Ian:

Once you switch, dont ever go back to regular oil.

<hr></blockquote>

Myth, or so far it seems.

i ran synthetic from 750 mi to ~48000 miles, I run a synthetic BLEND now, heh, i get better gas mileage.

[mcG]

i switched from regular oil to mobil 1 synthetic (10w-30). didn't notice a difference (except for paying $5 / quart!!)

[ October 22, 2003: Message edited by: mcG ]</p>

[98Silver6]

synth oil leaves your engine cleaner only if it has been used from new. I have 75,000 and since mile 1 it had Mobil 1 synth

[Lon]

i have 82000 on mine, im going to switch if for nothing more than piece of mind.... thanks for the info though guys.

[9t9fb]

i'vw been using Mobil 1 try syntetic since my car had .6 miles on it and now has 84000 with no problems.

[Dekay]

Regular oil is a lot thicker than synthetic oil. On older cars when seals start to go, regular oil actually bonds to the cracks and prevents leaks. Synthetic oil may not bond to the cracks as well and you'll start noticing oil leaks where you haven't before.

[RUC]

I put that castrol high mileage in my car and it started knocking real bad. It sounded like a collapsed lifter, and my car ran real bad. I changed back to regular penzoil 10-30 and added some seafoam for the first oil change, now it runs like a champ

[Loochy88]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Dekay:
Regular oil is a lot thicker than synthetic oil. On older cars when seals start to go, regular oil actually bonds to the cracks and prevents leaks. Synthetic oil may not bond to the cracks as well and you'll start noticing oil leaks where you haven't before.<hr></blockquote>

according to www.mobil1.com

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr> Myth: Mobil 1 will leak out of the seals of older cars.
Reality: Mobil 1 does not cause leaks. In fact, new Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ was tested in dozens of industry standard and OEM tests to prove its seal performance. It is fully compatible with the elastomeric materials from which all automotive seals and gaskets are made.

ExxonMobil engineers are wary of conventional oils that tout their use of additional seal-swelling agents. With extended use, these agents can over-soften engine seals, resulting in leaks. More to the point, an oil additive will not rejuvenate worn or damaged seals. The damaged seal may have been caused by a worn rotating metal component in the engine.

If an older engine is in good condition and does not have oil leaks, Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ provides the same advantages as when used in a new engine. ExxonMobil recommends taking measures to repair the leaks, then using Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™. ExxonMobil also always recommends following the automobile manufacturer's manual for the proper oil to use.

<hr></blockquote>

[JusFlyinBy]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 9t9fb:
i'vw been using Mobil 1 try syntetic since my car had .6 miles on it and now has 84000 with no problems.<hr></blockquote>

My 95 grand am has been running on cheap Citgo Oil and others since day one, and it now has 205,000 miles on it and never had an engine problem due to oil. Do you guys really think that synthetic oil is worth it? That goes for my sisters 215 kmi Cherokee also. We do a lot of driving, what can I say? [img]tongue.gif[/img] I just run the regular oil that the manual says in my bird.

[ November 14, 2003: Message edited by: JusFlyinBy ]</p>

[86camarodriver]

I was going to put the highmileage into my car untill I hear a lot of bad things about it.

The Porsche has 130k miles with a turbo. Those cars are natorious for leaks, its something that you can't stop due to the high heat levels. We had regular synthetic in it and it did fine then when to the 15W-50 http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...il1_15W-50.asp It still leaks some but not as much (maybe a two square inch puddle after hard driving) but the engine runs better and does not mind the high boost levels and RPM's. If an engine leaks it will leak no matter what you put in it. The thinner the oil the less friction, more power.

[Slave Labor]

First off, the 3800 Series II should ONLY run 10W-30. Use what the oil fill cap says! It's printed in big bold font right there for a reason! That much is a no-brainer... duh... [img]graemlins/slap.gif[/img]

As for conventional vs. synthetic vs. blend:

Conventional oil is cheap and it is designed for cheap cars.

Synthetic oil has higher thermal stability, better lubricating properties, and provides the same leak protection as any conventional oil. Synthetic is more expensive because it is simply better.

Blend is a half-*** attempt at synthetic. Why bother getting half the benefit?

But most important: why is this even a question? Why would you run cheap-o oil in your "high performance" F-Body? Everyone and their brother in the high-performance auto community knows there are three brands that are the best. It's arguable which of these three is number one but they all outperform the competition by a longshot.

Mobil 1 ($5/quart)
Redline ($9/quart, usually mail order only)
Royal Purple ($10+/quart, usually mail order only)

Even if Redline or Royal Purple is very slightly "better" than Mobil 1, to me the massive price difference is not justified. Law of diminishing returns: once you get to a certain level (Mobil 1), the improvements over that (Redline/Royal Purple) are extremely slight whereas the price difference is extremely high.

For me, I've used Mobil 1 10W-30 since day one. Always will.

I also use nothing but Mobil 1 M1-101 filters. $12 a pop but worth it.

[Ian]

back from the dead :rolleyes:

[semper-fac-id]

I use cheap conventional oil with cheap conventional filters. With 200K+ miles on the original engine (no rebuilds), my bird is still running.

Just change your oil like you change your underwear ... the correct answer should be consistently and regularly.

Use the GM recommended weight: 10W30. If your engine is consuming oil (but not leaking), sometimes using a heavier oil can slow the consumption rate. However, try to stay away from heavier oils. A heavier oil adds weight to your rotating mass ... and robs horse power from the engine ... but not enough to pittle over. As a general rule, use the lightest grade of oil that does not breakdown before 2500 miles under your normal driving conditions.

Synthetics offer the best lubricity, but they are not necessarily the best value. My car has definitely travelled a few miles ... and is still running. If I would have used synthetic oil from the beginning, I would have spent an extra $1200.00 on oil for the life of the car thus far(this figure includes an extra 1500 mile allowance between oil changes for synthetic). I don't see a return on investment in this case study. Maybe someone else can offer a better testimonial for synthetics.

[JusFlyinBy]

Im sorry, im not trying to stir something up here, im just curious. Im still not seeing the benefit of using the more expensive oil. Maybe you will notice the difference when your car has 250 kmi on it, but are you really going to have your F-body for that long? Im sure the rest of the car will fall apart by than. [img]tongue.gif[/img] My buddies Lumina lasted him to 256 kmi when he took a corner way to fast and snapped a tie rod. But thats never seen a decent oil. lol. Again, if this has been beaten to death in a past post, ignore me, im new remember? [img]tongue.gif[/img]

[strange_trp]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 97 Green Machine:
my friend runs straight 30 is that good to do.<hr></blockquote>

no. not at all. the first number is cold climate viscosity. running straight 30 means the oil flows very slowly when cold.

me: 5w-30 mobil 1 synth