Best Oil

[badandy247]

10w-30 and it's not worth the $5 a quart for synthetic in a sixer slug anyway...People have me put it in their cars all the time at work and unless you're pushin something serious under the hood it's just not worth it. Now if you get your motor rebuilt and decide to go with a turbo kit from one of the guys on here or put a supercharger on it I'd say go for it and get a full synthetic oil for max protection but not in a mostly stock street car.

[strange_trp]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by badandy247:
10w-30 and it's not worth the $5 a quart for synthetic in a sixer slug anyway...People have me put it in their cars all the time at work and unless you're pushin something serious under the hood it's just not worth it. Now if you get your motor rebuilt and decide to go with a turbo kit from one of the guys on here or put a supercharger on it I'd say go for it and get a full synthetic oil for max protection but not in a mostly stock street car.<hr></blockquote>

i disagree. full synthetic is absolutely superior to conventional no matter what engine or conditions the engine is exposed to.
the lubricating properties are far superior to conventional, but more importantly the heat-resistant, foam- resistant, dilution- resistant properties of synthetic far outperform conventionals.

motor oil does not really "wear out". the additives in the oil become exhausted. this is why you change your oil. (many military vehicles do not change oil. they change filter, add a quart, and replace additive package). blow-by gasses and heat combined with cylinder wash from excessively rich mixtures cause corrosion and foam inhibitor additives in motor oil to degrade rapidly. synthetics are much more resistant to this than conventional oils.

with this one its not hype, it's the real deal holyfield. pull a few engines apart and you'll see the difference.

[3.4 slow to go]

my $0.02 ;) :

Best Oil weight or brand?
Weight.....what ever manufacturer specidfies.
Brand.....personal choice. I use all Valvoline now, Max Life in teh Blazer, Durablend in the GP, & will use the same in the Birds new motor.
( Having each vehicle use the same oil filter doesn't hurt either ;) )
Again, that's what I use. You've heard others give their opinions on it.

What have you chosen?

edit: p.s. the only engine I've owned that was supposed to use 30wt oil was the Poncho 400

[ November 16, 2003: Message edited by: 3.4 slow to go ]</p>

[Ryan W.]

I dunno much about oil, I bought my Camaro in the summer with 91,000 kilometers, I have put 10W30 Synthetic in, jsut becasue I figure it is the best, and I want my baby to have the best [img]smile.gif[/img]

I havent noticed any power gains what so ever, but I still figure it is worth it, even though all the vehicles we have had in the past lasted a long f-ing time on regualr oil

[badandy247]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by strange_trp:
[QB]

i disagree. full synthetic is absolutely superior to conventional no matter what engine or conditions the engine is exposed to.
the lubricating properties are far superior to conventional, but more importantly the heat-resistant, foam- resistant, dilution- resistant properties of synthetic far outperform conventionals.

[QB]<hr></blockquote>


We have the same understanding of the product but I belive it's unnessasary to put the product into most street cars because the added value is outweighed by the fact that most likely the vehicle will suffer an accident or other failure that will junk the car long before the adverse effects of using the cheaper oil will be seen

I can see using it if it's a desirable car you want to still have around in several years once it becomes a classic but you have to face the facts that most six cylinders will end up as body or interior parts doners for the LT1-LS1 cars down the road as many first or second generation six cylinders have done for their V-8 bretheren

ah I digress, to each his own but we do both agree that synthetic is far superior it's just a matter of cost/benefit anaylisis really. It's a personal decision that's all.

[strange_trp]

i do agree with your cost/benefit analisys. synthetic oil's usefulness for the worker that drives 20 miles to and from work every day and then to jiffy lube to get his oil changed, is not worth the extra $ per quart.

[Wicked 3800 V6]

If I wanted to LOWER oil pressure, what could I run?
5w-30?
10w-20? Is there such an oil?

If I wanted to RAISE oil pressure, what could I run?
15w-30?
10w-40?

Would I cause damage / make leaks / etc?
-Rob

[3.4 slow to go]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Wicked 3800 V6:
If I wanted to LOWER oil pressure, what could I run?
5w-30?
10w-20? Is there such an oil?

If I wanted to RAISE oil pressure, what could I run?
15w-30?
10w-40?

Would I cause damage / make leaks / etc?
-Rob<hr></blockquote>


The only ways I can think og adjusting the pressure levels are to swap in a different pump to raise/lower pressure. Pressure to low & the oil doesn't cool of/lubricate all neccessary engine components.

[strange_trp]

pressure is created due to a restriction in flow.
theoretically, thinner oils would give less pressure.

you do have an oil pressure control valve that has a calibrated spring to regulate oil pressure. you can change that spring rate to increase or decrease oil pressure. but I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND IT.
too little pressure= engine damage
too much = leaks and excessive PCV into intake gasses

[ramy]

I would not recommend using any Valvoline oil. Especially the regular oil because it leaves a white gunk residue in the oil pan. I know a mechanic who has seen way too many cars coming into his shop where they have a problem and he finds out that they were using Valvoline and the buildup clogged the oil pump.

[95Batmobile]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Wicked 3800 V6:
If I wanted to LOWER oil pressure, what could I run?
5w-30?
10w-20? Is there such an oil?

If I wanted to RAISE oil pressure, what could I run?
15w-30?
10w-40?

Would I cause damage / make leaks / etc?
-Rob<hr></blockquote>

Lower - 5w30
Higher - 20w50
I ran 20w50 for a while, it doesn't hurt the car. But it's really really hot over here so that might have made a difference.

And don't forget about Kendall oil
[img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img] That's what you use for the higher horsepower cars ;)

[AZ3.8Camaro]

From what I have been told by many mechanics is that synthetic has better thermal qualities. It can stand much higher heat and still do its job.

The problem is that most cars don't get that hot, and if they did, other things would probably break anyway.

The other quality it has is the ability to last longer than conventional oil, making the oil change interval larger and larger.

The problem is, you change your oil when it is old becuase it is contaminted with blow by gasses etc. Wouldn't you rather just get that crap out of your engine at 3000 miles? I would.

I have used pennzoil 10-30 from the get-go, with the oil pan off (replaced it) I can tell you from experience that the motor was spotless. No buildup at all. Never have found any signs of wear inside either. I will even post pics when I take the heads off to do the cam/springs...

Save your money for better things.

[strange_trp]

heat resistance is only one of the properties of synthetics that make these better lubricants. other additives in synth that are there to combat blowby contamination last much longer as well.
plus you get better anti-foaming characteristics.

if all your trips are short, cold start drive 3 miles turn it off, sit for 8 hours cold start drive 3 miles home, you are getting a lot of blowby. the better additives in synths will help this. the synth will also adhere to the friction surfaces better over longer periods of time to reduce bearing wear at start-up.

is it worth the extra $ that's debatable. but synthetic is a much better lubricant for many other reasons than just heat resistance.

[ka50]

How often do you go redline your engine? If often, better put synthetic oil. If not, put regular, I guess. Synthetic is designed for high temp, high rpm and resistance to breakdown.