how to change my spark plugs?

[dashiftyfella]

im havein seroius hesitation over here and im gonna start with changing my spark plugs. i changed the fuel filter. that did nuthin. soo i figure next go to the spark plugs. after the temp guage gets haf way my engine will bogg and shake and doo terrible things soo uhh i dunno whats wrong [img]graemlins/crybaby.gif[/img] help me plleease [img]graemlins/omg.gif[/img] the dealer wants 115 labor :mad: . soo i think ill try to do it myself. has any one had anybody else do it? how much did it cost?

[strange_trp]

they really shouldnt be all that bad on the 3.4 since its a 60deg engine. i've never done plugs on a 3.4 that was longitudinally mounted, only on FWD with 3.4. remember that cyl numbers on the 60deg v6's are opposite of the 90deg v6's and v8's. one plug at a time, one wire at a time, and you'll be fine.

for the 3.8, front 2 from the top, the other 4 from the bottom.
spark plug socket has a hex end so you can use a wrench on it in tight quarters.

always let the engine cool before changing plugs. i know that both 6-bangers use cast heads and that letting an aluminum head cool is much more important, it is still important to not try to pull the plugs from a hot engine.

just a few tips. hope it helps...

[Guardsman]

A 3.4 isn't bad, a little bending and stretching, but you can get everything from up top, and using a ratchet, although having a combination wrench handy probably wouldn't hurt. And, yeah, like tsrange_trp said, the the cylinder numbering is a bit backwards, if I remember correctly: The evens are on the driver side, and the odds are on the passenger side, but they still number front to rear (driver: 2,4,6 passenger: 1,3,5).

[Dr Todd]

From a fellow 3.4 owner:
Try to find one of those "stuby" rachets where the handle is about half as long as a normal rachet and buy a universal jont. Start with the passenger side plugs because they are the hardest. The two towards the back of the engine are where you will need the stuby.
I then change the drivers side because they are much easier. (Especially with the banged knuckles and large band-aids.)
Be sure to put some "anti-sieze" lubricant on the threads of the plug,(don't get any on the electrode) and put some grease on the inside of the spark plug boot before putting it on the plug. Not any grease,I forget the proper name, but this grease aids in the removal of the boot later and helps prevents arching. Ask the parts store for this stuff. (about $2.00 for a tube.)

just some pointers

[strange_trp]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Dr Todd:
and put some grease on the inside of the spark plug boot before putting it on the plug. Not any grease,I forget the proper name, <hr></blockquote>

dielectric

[MustangEater8251]

wHat they said, its pretty simple, just you will need to learn yourself the best way to do it.

I have 2 10 in. extenders and a universal joint, makes working easier.

good luck.

[EyeOutThere]

Piece of cake! [img]smile.gif[/img]
Install guide bellow:
http://eyeoutthere.tripod.com/plugs_how_to.htm

You may also want to check the wires going to your EGR valve (that thing on the passenger side exhaust manifold). I have seen a couple cases in the 3.4L where the wires rest against a hot exhaust component and melt, or char and crack. This could cause your car to do crazy things when it warms up.

But change your plugs anyway.