Royal Purple

[Dominic]

Does anyone here run and like royal purple in their car?

[strange_trp]

i would like to add: have you tried other full synthetics, and is the royal purple better enough to justify the price?
also... (i haven't done a lot of research on this one, i know some of you have researched different lubricants very thoroughly and i'd like the benefit of your expertise) would it be a good idea or worthwhile to mix royal purple with other synthetics (ie are they compatible)?

[ June 30, 2002: Message edited by: strange_trp ]</p>

[GeneralBird01]

i use royal purple, i always used to use the valvoline synthetic, and the royal purple is very nice, but not nice enought for the price differance... just my $.02

[john00v6a4]

i use royal purple in my car. i used mobil one synthetic oil in my car for a little over 1 year. i just recently switched over to royal purple. i like the royal purple very much. i dont know if it is worth the money however. its not that much more expensive than the mobil one, but over time i guess the price can add up. i would say stick with the other synthetic oils if you cant afford to run the royal purple. they are just as good. just my opinion though.

[Dominic]

Nevermind on this whole issue - I have been a Mobil1 advocate for sometime but after speaking with many people on LS1.com concerning Valvoline, Mobil1, RP, Redline, and Amsoil I have made the following conclusions.

Redline, bar none, is the best synthetic you can buy. I read too many pdf's concerning the 10W-30 and 20W-50 oils they offered to think otherwise.

Mobil1 isn't what it used to be. It is still synthetic, but the antiwear components zinc and nickel have been almost completely removed from Mobil1 and have been replaced by Supersyn (which is considered by many ChemE's to be inferior to zinc and nickel). Nevertheless, it is PAO based and is better than many oils out there.

Valvoline Full Synthetic is no longer PAO based but is instead a hydrocracked base-3 Oil - like Castrol and other companies began to do several years ago. It is the best non PAO based "synthetic" but IMO it is not full synthetic, just better based dino oil for too much money. Its specifications are nice however!

Amsoil is no slicker or better than mobil1, this has been proven too many times, it just costs way more!

And lastly, and most sadly, Royal Purple loses all of its viscousness after 1,000 miles and is no better than SAE20, or so I have read/seen. RP is a markup oil and their street stuff is useless. Their race oils are not good for street use, but theyre not bad for track use, however they are expensive.

If you want to buy full synthetic and pay the least, Mobil1 is the way to go. If you want to get the best you can get, Redline wins hands down. And if you don't want either, Valvoline is an excellent choice.

The guy I spoke to was named Patman on ls1.com and was extremely helpful - he's their Oil GURU so-to-speak. He is currently running the Valvoline MaxLife since it not only contains nice seal swelling agents, it also has lots of moly in it - something Redline is famous for - and its a near 50% synthetic blend. The Valvoline durablend is only a 10-20% synthetic blend.

And Strange_trp - try not to mix synthetics. Its a really bad idea being they can use different bases and additives which might not be friendly when combined [img]smile.gif[/img] . Now, I think Royal Purple is a joke, don't bother with it. If you want to pay more, get the Redline.

One last thing is Patman claimed changing synthetic at 3K was wasteful and compared it to buying a 6pack of Beer and drinking 2 - throwing the rest in the garbage. I don't know how true this is but I might start running Redline and changing it every 6K, it will not only justify the cost but it might be better for my engine than Mobil1 to begin with (since they reformulated it).

[DominusEtDeusNatus]

Royal Purple is junk. Listen to Patman, he knows what he is talking about. Here is the test results from Royal Purple on a 2002 SS. This is the test he was talking about.

The oil had 1,250 miles on it and had been in for close to three months. 8,850 miles on the engine at the time of the sample

copper 93

Iron 13

Chromium 0

lead 19

aluminum 2

silicon 12

Molybdenum 103

sodium 514

Magnesium 698

tin 0

zinc 1140

potassium 0

calcium 1390

water neg neg,trace or pos

fuel neg neg,trace or pos

glycol neg neg ,trace,or pos

oxidation 57 scale is 0 to 199 so if you compare to other
labs this would equate to about 29%. Normal

Nitration 67 same as above = about 34%

sulfur 62

TBN 10

Vis @100c 9.5 9.9 new/ clean so this is ok. 30w.

------------------------------------------------

So as you see the oil dropped to almost a 20 weight after only 1,250 miles. Another test will be done with the same mileadge on that car. I will post the results as soon as I receive it. If you change your oil after 3,000 miles, you might as well be using any oil out there. Synthetic is meant for 10K-15K or even longer drain intervals. The weak point is your oil filter. You can probably go a long time if you change the filter in the middle of the interval. Whatever Patman tells you I'll tell you the same. I'll be also running Maxlife as I posted on here many times recommending it and telling everyone that it's synthetic even though it doesn't say.

Why don't you guys do some oil analysis of your own. It will tell you alot about the oil and engine wear.

Terry Dyson
Dyson Analysis 3679 CR 2184
Greenville,Tx 75402
(903) 883-4661

$25 per test

Just make sure it's not the first time you're using a certain oil. Do it on the second change at least.

I don't like Mobil 1 as it's on the thin side of 30W and the new stuff has weaker additive package. Not yet "proven" but I'll get some tests sooner or later.

[Guardsman]

I use Redline now, and I used it on my 3.4. What I was recommended by the guy at Redline, and what I run, is an oil change every 18,000 miles, and an oil filter every 6,000 miles, and I put in a fresh quart with each filter. That is for freeway driving.
For street driving, he recommended oil change every 12,000 miles and the oil filter every 4,000 miles.
One thing that I noticed about the Redline compared to regular dino-oil is that even after 18,000 miles in the engine, the Redline still sitcks to the oil pan, whereas after 6,000 miles, the regular oil was like water.
I haven't tried any of the other oils, but one of the guys I works with drag races, and he recommended Redline, and from reading their literature and talking to the people there, they developed their oil originally for racing, and then adapted it to street use, so the stuff is made to be abused, so to speak.
As to the price, I don't mind, because I drive 1100+ miles a week, so I was changing my oil about every five weeks with the regular stuff, with the Redline, I only need to do the complete change every 3 or 4 months, so it's a convenience thing for me.
By the way, I've posted this before, but for info so you guys don't get ripped off, Redline's suggested price for their oil is $7.75 a quart, the tranny fluid is $7.95 a quart, and the 75W90 gear oil (rear end oil) is $7.95 a quart.
If anybody's really hard up for the stuff, and is getting raped on it, Redline will ship their oil to you. If there are any groups of you in some areas, you could split the cost of shipping the stuff.

[Dominic]

Thanks for all the information - I seriously couldn't drive 12K without changing my oil.

I was intending on going 6K or so on the redline, thus halving the cost and making it cheaper than Mobil1 [img]smile.gif[/img] . I do know it will probably be fine to 18K, but I just can't think that way yet... [img]smile.gif[/img]

Again, thanks for the information, I hope this topic is archived.