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  • brown gas

    hey guys, help me out a little?
    i was changing the fuel filter in the auto class as part of a tuneup because my car isnt running right. but when im draining the gas out of the lines it comes out brown. im pretty sure its only brown from the tank side, word is im going to have to drop the tank and clean it out. anyone done this? do i have to pull rear differential or just the exhaust? how long did it take? how do i clean the tank? also. auto class is ending and i will no longer have a lift to use. so how should i go about this? thanks for any input [img]graemlins/rant.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/twak.gif[/img] :mad:
    The confusion surrounds me <br />change is imminent<br />if I were they<br />we could be great

  • #2
    Your gonna have to remove the panhard rod, gonna have to partially lower the rear diff to allow the exhaust system and fuel tank clearance.(haynes manual).

    When you do this please if you can take pictures or find the fuel vapor line and see where it runs and where it is.....its part of the EVAP system and Im having trouble with a random hose under my car from the evap cannister. Thanks
    1996 Firebird-Y87:SLP Cold Air Intake,Y87 Perf. Package: 3.42 Gears w/ Zexel-Torsen LSD, Sport Steering(14.4:1 ratio), Dual Exit Exhaust,800 watt Pioneer Amp and Two 10\' subs with a custom trunk enclosure.

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    • #3
      I just did this last weekend. I do not have pictures, but it takes a while. Often times the bolts are hard to remove due to corrosion, we needed to torch and literally stand on top of the wrench to break free one of my panhard bolts. That caused a lot of problem for a while. In all if you know nothing about what you are doing, expect it to take roughly 20 hours to remove, replace and reinstall.

      Any other questions, I would be happy to answer.

      -Scott

      -EDIT, the hours to complete includes driving to stores to get new bolts, etc and maybe a lunch or two. lol. So if you have everything and don't need to replace anything, i'd say about 10 hours.
      <a href=\"http://home.comcast.net/~beer13oy/carpage.html\" target=\"_blank\"><b>1995 3.4 Liter M5 Camaro</b></a><br />A few mods...<br />still slow.<br /><br /><a href=\"http://www.mnfbody.com\" target=\"_blank\">Minnesota F-body</a>

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      • #4
        Gawd, and I thought my header install was gonna be bad......
        Jessica :)<br />Kansas: There\'s no place like home...99 Firebird Blown/6lbs, Eaton w/3.42\'s CI headers Z28 Exaust<br />CAI, #36 injectors Intense PCM

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        • #5
          hey 95dgcamaro. can you make me a rough list of what i will need as far as supplies special tools..etc thanks a bunch. also what did you have to move in order to get the tank out and how did you clean it? thanks. oh and does your car run better now?
          The confusion surrounds me <br />change is imminent<br />if I were they<br />we could be great

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Yaba3800:
            hey 95dgcamaro. can you make me a rough list of what i will need as far as supplies special tools..etc thanks a bunch. also what did you have to move in order to get the tank out and how did you clean it? thanks. oh and does your car run better now?
            I did not clean my tank, I had to pull it down to replace my fuel pump, but afterwards it ran like a champ.

            You shouldn't need any special tools to remove it, just the normal wrench and socket types, I believe we just used all metric sizes from 8mm to 21mm for various nuts and bolts. I would say you may not have to remove all of this, but it will just make it a lot simpler.

            Jack up the car by the chassis, and let the rearend hang down (I took off my wheels too). Take off the brace protecting the driveshaft. Unbolt the shocks from the rearend and remove the springs to get them out of the way. Disconnect the rear swaybar endlinks where it connects to the wheel/brake. Make sure not to pull on any fuel lines or brake lines. If any of them start getting stretched while slowly lowering the rest of your rearend, find where it is connected to the chassis and take off little brackets and such that may be holding them tight (only thing for us was the E-brake lines). Also when doing the previous step(s), have the car on jackstands and place a hydrolic/pump jack underneed the rearend because you will have to raise/lower it for certain things, it kinda just plays out when you start disconnecting things. After that, take off the panhard lower bar and the the brace that is bolted to the underside of the car (alot of pictures in the haynes manual). Once that is free, take off the random heat shields around the tank and fenderwalls. Then unbolt the 2 straps holding the gas tank up. Slowly maneuver the gas tank around until it comes all the way down (this takes a little time to figure out, it is easiest to have one person look through the gas cap door down through the car to help the person(s) pulling the tank down and out and guide them in what way to turn the tank to get the neck free.

            Alot to it I suppose. But if you can free up all the bolts without problems, it wouldn't take that long at all. After doing it once to my car and replacing corroded bolts. I could have the tank lying on the ground disconnected within 2 hours.

            -Scott
            <a href=\"http://home.comcast.net/~beer13oy/carpage.html\" target=\"_blank\"><b>1995 3.4 Liter M5 Camaro</b></a><br />A few mods...<br />still slow.<br /><br /><a href=\"http://www.mnfbody.com\" target=\"_blank\">Minnesota F-body</a>

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