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  • Aggravating Problems! Please Help..

    Well, Friday, after dropping off my friend, I'm driving with the music up, but my car seems to have terrible acceleration. So I'm like, wtf, is it me? I turn the music down, and hear a series of misfires, look at the gauges, and the SES Light is flashing. So I pull over, wait a little while, and try to restart the car. ABSOLUTELY NOTHING! The security light is flashing when I try to start the engine, but other than that, absolutely nothing happens. Of course I think it’s the stupid security chip on the key, so I call up a friend, we get a spare from my house, go back, same deal. Since it’s a manual we decide to try to push-start it. It starts, but right after I press the clutch and the gas, it chokes. Anyway, after reading a few posts on this great site, I concluded that it’s an electrical problem, possibly, as TTopBird96 posted, the little wire from the ignition security got cut. So, yesterday, we decide to take apart the steering set-up. We get the airbag off, that bolt that holds the steering wheel secure, and try to use a “universal” bull$|-|!T steering wheel pulley. One of the damn bolts that holds the Pulley to the steering wheel, breaks off inside the damn screw hole.. [img]graemlins/crybaby.gif[/img] So I basically concluded that I’m screwed unless I can drill that damn screw out today, and buy a new hopefully decent pulley, or find another problem.. Please, if anyone has any tips on how to remove the steering wheel, the broken off bolt, or has another possible cause of the problem I above mentioned, help me out. I really feel stranded without my car, and unless I can get it fixed myself, I’ll have to get it towed to the dealer and overpay them for fixing this problem. SORRY FOR THE LONG POST..

    Thanks in advance for all of your replies,
    Fred
    1996 Camaro<br />Nothing special really done yet!

  • #2
    Before removing the hard stuff, do the easy things:
    - Check to make sure you're getting spark at all plugs while cranking. Do this by removing the spark plug end of the wire and stick a long screwdriver in the boot so that it contacts the metal wire end. Then, prop the plastic handle of the screwdriver on something so that the exposed, metal part of the screw driver is about 1 cm or so away from a piece of metal that is unpainted and can be used as a ground. As your friend tries to start the car, watch for a spark to jump across from the screwdriver to the metal piece. Do this for all wires. If one does not jump, you could have a bad wire. If 2 do not jump and both come from the same coil, it is probably the coil.

    - When you put the key in the ignition and turn the key to on but don't start it, listen for a whine from the rear of the car. This is the fuel pump priming.

    Remember that the engine must have spark and fuel in order to start. Eliminate these problems and then move into the harder things like taking the column apart.
    - Josh<br />If you have any questions or need installation pics/help, e-mail me: Viper98885@aol.com<br /><a href=\"http://Camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/viper98885\" target=\"_blank\">\'93 Camaro Hardtop</a><br /><a href=\"http://Camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/01lincolnls8\" target=\"_blank\">\'01 Lincoln LS8 Sport</a><br />\'00 Yamaha YZF-R6<br /><a href=\"http://www.ftpp.net\" target=\"_blank\">Full Throttle Performance</a>

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    • #3
      Thanks for the reply, but unfortunately the engine doesn't even crank, and the fuel pump doesn't whine..
      "When the Pass-Key II system senses that someone is using the wrong key, it shuts down the vehicle's starter and fuel systems."
      Straight out of the owner's manual... As you see, this quote alone gives enough reason to believe that the problem is the ignition.
      1996 Camaro<br />Nothing special really done yet!

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      • #4
        To remove the broken bolt you will need an "Easy Out" set. This is basically 2 bits. One to drill the hole in the bolt, and the other is reversed threaded to screw in CC and remove the bolt.

        Good luck...

        Not sure where to buy them. Try local hardware stores.

        [ November 11, 2002: Message edited by: r&ksport ]</p>
        --Traded In--<br />1998 Navy Blue Metallic Camaro (RS)<br />3.8L V6 w/4L60E Auto<br />Sport Appearance Package<br />T-Tops - Loaded<br />_ _ _ _ __________________ _ _ _ _ <br /><br />--New--<br />2003 Victory Red S10 Xtreme w/Silver Stripes<br />2.2 L4 w/MW2 5 Speed Manual<br />LS Package

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        • #5
          you can muy easy outs at any napa. but before you do that if there is any of the bolt sticking out of the hole at all you can place a SHARP cold chisel on the thread end sticking out and tap it in the direction of removal and it should back it out. I have the pas key also on mine and I have never had this problem. I know that there is a way to bypass you might ask around and see of someone has done this and try that first.
          Remember that sometimes, silence is the best answer.<br />Warren White<br />1996 PoloGreen Coup <a href=\"http://vampyr.settanni.net/\" target=\"_blank\">http://vampyr.settanni.net/</a> <br />\"Jealousy\"<br /> CTFBA member of the month Sept 03

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          • #6
            <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by AllTheCoolNamesAreTaken:
            "When the Pass-Key II system senses that someone is using the wrong key, it shuts down the vehicle's starter and fuel systems."
            Straight out of the owner's manual... As you see, this quote alone gives enough reason to believe that the problem is the ignition.
            <hr></blockquote>

            True, but unless the entire system is faulty, it should only shut the system down for 3-5 minutes. I believe the PASS-KEY II system is atributed to it not starting now (security light flashing...had that problem before...not a d*mn thing was happening). As for bad acceleration/flashing SES light = misfire which is what I have right now. I'm changing plugs/wires this week so I'll let you know if that fixes it. Good luck. [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

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            • #7
              YAY... IT WAS THE DAMN SECURITY CRAP... one of the wires that goes to the ignition thing was broken off... soldered it back together.. YAY.. CAR STARTED... didn't drive it yet so I don't know how the misfires are doing since I didn't put the steering wheel on yet... IT was a pita to take off though.. Anyway, the SES Light is still on.. How do I reset the pcm? Thanks for all replies!!!
              1996 Camaro<br />Nothing special really done yet!

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              • #8
                For 98s and above and I guess for 96s:
                To reset SES or PCM
                1. Turn key to the "on" position, but do not start engine.
                2. Pull the PCM BAT & PCM IGN fuses in engine compartment.
                3. Wait about 5 minutes.
                4. Turn off ignition.
                5. Replace fuses.
                6. Start engine.

                Good luck!
                2001 Camaro M5 Coupe(1 of 2,737), no options, Whisper Lid, K&N Air Filter, Free Ram Air, MAFS Screen removed, SLP Manual Fan Switch, 160 thermo, DEE\'s T/B Spacer, EGR Block-off plate, IAT resistor, CAI to EGR air feed, B&M Ripper Shifter, SLP Replacement Grill, T/A Exhaust, SLP five spoke take-off wheels, BMR strut-tower brace, BMR Tunnel Brace, BMR 32/21 front & rear sway bars with poly, BMR Poly/Combo Rear Control Arms, Clear front & rear corners, HPP3 modified 87 Octane program.<p><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/red2k1\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/red2k1</a>

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                • #9
                  Reset the PCM.. Started the car... revved it like crazy.. NO SES LIGHT…It’s hard to imagine that all the problems I listed in the original post were cause by a simple broken off wire… still didn’t drive the car though, since while putting back the steering wheel counsel assembly I must have hooked something up wrong since my horns don’t work.. I’ll have to take that back apart tomorrow… LUCKILY, my blinkers and everything else works… ALL THIS FREAKING WORK… but hey, the dealer gave me a quote of $600 :eek: to get the ignition fixed… I saved $550 since I had to waste $50 on the necessary tools. Sorry about the post, just wanted to share my joy until this point. I’ll keep you posted and tell you how everything turns out after I finally put everything together. :cool:
                  1996 Camaro<br />Nothing special really done yet!

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                  • #10
                    Great! Glad you solved the problem. Let us know how the horn thing turns out.
                    2001 Camaro M5 Coupe(1 of 2,737), no options, Whisper Lid, K&N Air Filter, Free Ram Air, MAFS Screen removed, SLP Manual Fan Switch, 160 thermo, DEE\'s T/B Spacer, EGR Block-off plate, IAT resistor, CAI to EGR air feed, B&M Ripper Shifter, SLP Replacement Grill, T/A Exhaust, SLP five spoke take-off wheels, BMR strut-tower brace, BMR Tunnel Brace, BMR 32/21 front & rear sway bars with poly, BMR Poly/Combo Rear Control Arms, Clear front & rear corners, HPP3 modified 87 Octane program.<p><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/red2k1\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/red2k1</a>

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