I know about changing the fuel pump by cutting a hole in the trunk, but i would like to know, where exactly do i cut the hole out? is it right behind the rear seat, or is it where the t-tops are stored? I have seen install guids on this and pics but still am not exactly sure where to make the cut?
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Fuel pump location?
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mmmmmmmmmm I'm not sure I thought there was an access door already built into the body but then again I'v never changed my fuel pump that way I did it the hard way by droping the rear end exhaust and then the tank. I never though about going in throught the body and try and from the top.
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Just to make sure it is my fuel pump, before i go buying a new pump and cutting a hole in my trunk, my car takes a few seconds to start up, ever since i bought the car it was like this, also my car revs itself up and then drops, does this every so often, and i am getting a buzzing noise from the rear of my car. My car has never stalled and i have not had any ses or check gauges lights on. Its not the plugs, wires, coils, or fuel filter because they have all just been changed. If i have to change the fuel pump should i also change the fuel pressure regulator aswell? and also should i buy the fuel pump and regulator from autozone if they have them in, or should i buy a walbro fuel pump?
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hard starts have been the Fuel Psi regulator before...... i would try that before attacing the pumpwww.turbov6camaro.com
1997 3800 Series II Camaro
4600 Stall for my ride to the mall :chug:
7.18 @ 99.77 1/8 -1.8x sixty (current quickest v6 fbod)
11.23 @ unk 5 1/4 - 7.19 1/8 - 1.83 sixty
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That buzzing sound is probably the fuel pump, my car for some reason you can hear the fuel pump over the radio, and you can hear it from outside the car over the exhaust at idle. I doubt its your fuel pump. But if that does turn out to be your problm i can take pics from my fuel pump hole, and e-mail them to you.
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thanks viper i think im going with the Fuel pressure regulator first and see what happens. 38fury that would be great if you could send me some pics, please send them to ronnierango@earthlink.net
So just because i am hearing a buzzing sound, the fuel pump is still okay? or does that sound mean that i should change it? i can also hear the buzzing at idle from inside and outside of the car, but not when im driving. from the search i did it seems everyone that had that same buzzing sound needed to change their pump.
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First... fuel pump
Second... don't cut the floor and make a flap... that is for race cars only... not a daily driver... it is not safe.
Keep us updatedRace car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet
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Thanks 12sec. Yeah before i do anything im goin to my mechanic this week and ill let him check the fuel pressure and everything else out. I know my mechanic would also say the same thing that its not safe to cut a hole in the trunk. Why is it not safe? Just sucks that if it is my fuel pump that they gotta drop the rear end and exhaust, what should i expect to pay for this if it is my fuel pump? Im sure its going to cost me, but rite now im sick of my car feeling like it has now power.
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I went through the trunk as well. Its still a pain that way. I actually did it twice, the first pump failed after a week. The second has lasted 2 months (thank goodness). I sealed the hole with silicone, used a heavy gauge plate to cover it and a lot of sheet metal screws. The worst part of this method is getting to the "quick disconnects" on the fuel lines. If it had been summer I would have dropped the tank and done it the right way but I had no garage and the temperature was hovering around 0-10 degrees. Quick was good. Check everything else first, the fuel pump is expensive and a pain to install. There are a couple of pics in my site below.1994 Arctic white, 3.4l, 5spd<br /><br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/montytrmpt\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/montytrmpt</a>
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"How is it unsafe"
Many people use a Dremel or air operated cut off wheel. This causes many sparks. If there is a little leak or gas fumes......then...BOOM. However, it is easier than taking off the exhaust, disonnecting shocks, removing the torque arm, etc., just so you can drop the rear end.
I was quoted about $700.00 dollars (parts and labor) to install the pump. I bought the Delco fuel pump with screen for $156.00 and had a friend help with the install. It took 4 hours.
Good thing I did not weld my exhaust system.
One more thing...I heard the pump buzzing when my car finally had about 115,000 miles on it. I decided to replace it before it went out so I would not have a tow bill.Dr Todd
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You don't have to drop the rearend. Atleast I did not. I've done it twice on my car... Once to replace the pump and a second time because the pump to housing feed hose split. Dropping the tank is a pita, but not really hard.
And Dr Todd that delco fp was a rip off... You can get a performance aftermarket pump for 120-130.Keith - 99 'maro - White M5 - bumpstick and boltons - 13.65 @ 101 N/A
"I ain't too big to listen to the rumors, I'm just too @#$% big to pay attention to them" - Dr. Dre
http://seppo.hopto.org/
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I did the cut door way last night and I didn't have any problems it was rather easy. Took me like 20mins. ITS REALLY EASY. I wouldn't recommend this though if your car has A LOT of rust.Ben<br /><br />1995 White/Black 3.4L<br />As far away from stock as possible<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=288292\" target=\"_blank\">My Site!!!</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.redlinevsix.com\" target=\"_blank\">RedLineV6</a><br />Rebuild and 3.4 T70 Turbo is complete<br />Details to come....
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