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OMG HELP ASAP BIG PROBLEM NEED HELP BEFORE ENGINE DIES!!!
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Evan,It should be fine without it, but threadlock is something I always recommend. I use bolts myself since I had taken the TB on and off so many times. The factory studs are pretty soft, so they don't stand up to repeated use like that.
DEE
<hr></blockquote>
that's cool, i think the other stud will be good though--didn't take it out but once. and the long bolt on the bottom also i think is fine. thx dee.
I must say you are very VERY lucky nothing broke. That was a ballsy thing you did by starting it. Water in the intake is nothing to guess on. Personaly I would have pulled the heads and at the very least pulled the plugs. If you broke a piston and it put a big gash on the block you would have been f--ked. Or you might have blown the heads right off. I had a friend who did just that. He got a little water in and thought he could just burn it out. He blow both heads and scrached the block on the cyl walls beyond repair. He had to buy a new engine. You got lucky. I would not take that chance again if I were you. Glad to hear everything worked out though [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img] . A broken F-body is a very sad thing :(
[ September 05, 2002: Message edited by: bu-bye ]</p>
White 98 Camaro with t-tops leather and Y87. For more info on mods just ask.<br />1/4=14.9<br />2002 Xterra V6 A4
I would have waited longer too for before starting, you were lucky you cna start with a little water in the car, but like Magnus said, you could have hydralocked the motor, and broken something on the car. You did not have enough water in the motor to do it, but there is no real way of telling how much is in each cylinder without, taking the motor apart to look.
Magnus's plan with tkaing otu plugs, and cranking motor by hand with a breaker bar is the best of the ideas.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>He had to buy a new engine. You got lucky. I would not take that chance again if I were you. Glad to hear everything worked out though <hr></blockquote>
all i have to say is wow. no, let me again, WOW! i am extremely lucky. i figured this is what happened to my motor anyway, and that's why i just went with the very first advice someone gave me--so i went on it. luckily, it worked. i guess if i blew my heads and scratched the block, i would have known by now? or might this problem come back soon? thx for the help guys, lemme know what you think.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>I had a friend who did just that. He got a little water in and thought he could just burn it out. <hr></blockquote>
btw, how much did he have in his engine? cause i would think i had a lot since my car smoked for honestly 2 minutes straight...
[ September 05, 2002: Message edited by: Only4U ]</p>
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>you may have washed your cylinder walls with coolant which isn't a good thing. Can lead to bad rings. <hr></blockquote>
are you saying that changing my oil will solve this problem? or are you saying that on top of the oil problem, this too could be a problem?
if this is a completely different problem, do you have any suggestions on what to do about it? well--IS there anything i can do about it? once again, thx magnus.
EDIT: and just out of curiosity, could the ring problem and the oil problem still have been here if i had done what you said and taken out the plugs and let the stuff drain on its own? i'm just wondering what the huge downsides are to the way i "fixed" the problem--only with my results because i understand what could have gone wrong. thx.
[ September 05, 2002: Message edited by: Only4U ]</p>
well there have been a few places i've had to go today so the car has been driven a little bit. as far as oil and filter goes, that's a good idea and i will do that next. don't think i've got the cash right now to do the plugs--nor the place--but will if you think it's necessary. what could have been screwed up in the plugs?
crap--can't remember if i use 10W-30 or 10W-40, would it hurt if i changed it (saying only if i screw up and don't use the one that i've been using)???
[ September 05, 2002: Message edited by: Only4U ]
[ September 05, 2002: Message edited by: Only4U ]</p>
yeah I'm not sure hom much water he had in there. He stared it and 1 second later BOOOM! Changing the oil is a must. If water got by the rings and into your oil that could be trouble. I would change the oil. Drive it a little for a couple days then change it again. Sounds like you got by ok. I would not worry to much if you car is running fine. Just change the oil, filter, and plugs like Magnus suggested and you should be fine.
White 98 Camaro with t-tops leather and Y87. For more info on mods just ask.<br />1/4=14.9<br />2002 Xterra V6 A4
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>yeah I'm not sure hom much water he had in there. He stared it and 1 second later BOOOM! Changing the oil is a must. If water got by the rings and into your oil that could be trouble. I would change the oil. Drive it a little for a couple days then change it again. Sounds like you got by ok. I would not worry to much if you car is running fine. Just change the oil, filter, and plugs like Magnus suggested and you should be fine. <hr></blockquote>
oil is changed--while i was at it, i payed the extra $12 (they had a special) and got the system flushed as well. i smelled the oil and it smells like oil; heh, in other words, i don't think there was any antifreeze in it whatsoever. as far as the plugs go, i've got some of the best, plat+4's--i don't have a place to do the replacement nor the money to get it done, nor the time to do it now, so i think i'll be fine if i let the plugs alone for a bit. if i get another misfire or a series of problems hopefully it will be the plugs and not something the antifreeze is now screwing with :mad:
The car was blowing out white smoke for a good 2 minutes you said? I am a drivability tech at a pontiac dealership, and from what I have seen, if coolant is combusted producing white smoke from the tailpipe, it appears like you have combusted a lot more coolant then you actually burn. Coolant expands as it turns into gas, and it also gets caught up in your exhaust system. So, the car producing smoke for awhile is not an unnormal event after having combusted coolant. As for any engine damage that occured, it can be hard to tell. Liquid does not compress, and if you had a lot of coolant being burned, something has to give. I usually see connecting rods bend in this sort of situation, and if any are bent even slightly, it will cause engine bearings to wear uneven and possible fail down the road.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Gmtech1005: The car was blowing out white smoke for a good 2 minutes you said? I am a drivability tech at a pontiac dealership, and from what I have seen, if coolant is combusted producing white smoke from the tailpipe, it appears like you have combusted a lot more coolant then you actually burn. Coolant expands as it turns into gas, and it also gets caught up in your exhaust system. So, the car producing smoke for awhile is not an unnormal event after having combusted coolant. As for any engine damage that occured, it can be hard to tell. Liquid does not compress, and if you had a lot of coolant being burned, something has to give. I usually see connecting rods bend in this sort of situation, and if any are bent even slightly, it will cause engine bearings to wear uneven and possible fail down the road.<hr></blockquote>
ok, good to know. thanks a bunch. it's been a while, as you can tell, a good 3 months, and i've put a good 3-4k on the car and haven't run into any problems that i can tell yet. the car seems to be running strong. i think it's ok, but you never know what's gonna happen down the road. thx for your input.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Gmtech1005: As for any engine damage that occured, it can be hard to tell. Liquid does not compress, and if you had a lot of coolant being burned, something has to give. I usually see connecting rods bend in this sort of situation, and if any are bent even slightly, it will cause engine bearings to wear uneven and possible fail down the road.<hr></blockquote>
btw, how far down the road? and what is the BIG issue if engine bearings and connecting rods are bent? i'd like to know what to expect and how soon to expect it if the case...thank you.
[ November 26, 2002: Message edited by: Only4U ]</p>
Hi,
Well, with it having a good few months on it, a couple thousand miles, and it running strong, you are probably ok. If a connecting rod was to end up bent, like i said, it will wear the bearing uneven which will eventually cause bearing failure. With the bearing wearing at an uneven angle, you wear one side more than the other. This will over time, cause connecting rod knock. That is basically where the clearences between the connecting rod bearing and crankshaft change causing there to be some slop. This will cause a knocking noise that will increase with rpm as the connecting rod smacks on the crankshaft due to the the very worn bearings. If a bearing wears in a certin pattern for thousands and thousands of miles, then ode day changes it wear pattern, it will wear the bearing faster than normal. How long it takes to show up varies on how much you drive it and how many miles it has on it. It might not have done any damage at all. If it is bent, if it is very, very slight, you may never notice it. Like i said before though...even a little bit of burned up coolant can produce quite a bit of smoke. It does take a little bit to get it fully out of the exhaust. You most likely only burned up a little bit of coolant and probably did no damage to anything. That could also cause you car to run a little rough for a little bit after, because it will give your Heated oxygen sensors come altered readings. As you know, you HO2S sensors give your pcm exhaust readings so the pcm can request your cars fuel trim lean or rich.
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