OMG HELP ASAP BIG PROBLEM NEED HELP BEFORE ENGINE DIES!!! - FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com Message Board

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OMG HELP ASAP BIG PROBLEM NEED HELP BEFORE ENGINE DIES!!!

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  • #31
    <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Gmtech1005:
    Hi,
    Well, with it having a good few months on it, a couple thousand miles, and it running strong, you are probably ok. If a connecting rod was to end up bent, like i said, it will wear the bearing uneven which will eventually cause bearing failure. With the bearing wearing at an uneven angle, you wear one side more than the other. This will over time, cause connecting rod knock. That is basically where the clearences between the connecting rod bearing and crankshaft change causing there to be some slop. This will cause a knocking noise that will increase with rpm as the connecting rod smacks on the crankshaft due to the the very worn bearings. If a bearing wears in a certin pattern for thousands and thousands of miles, then ode day changes it wear pattern, it will wear the bearing faster than normal. How long it takes to show up varies on how much you drive it and how many miles it has on it. It might not have done any damage at all. If it is bent, if it is very, very slight, you may never notice it. Like i said before though...even a little bit of burned up coolant can produce quite a bit of smoke. It does take a little bit to get it fully out of the exhaust. You most likely only burned up a little bit of coolant and probably did no damage to anything. That could also cause you car to run a little rough for a little bit after, because it will give your Heated oxygen sensors come altered readings. As you know, you HO2S sensors give your pcm exhaust readings so the pcm can request your cars fuel trim lean or rich.
    <hr></blockquote>

    ya, i've driven it a good bit, and recently put a torque converter on it (it being the car, not the engine, duh [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img] i had to edit that, i knew someone was gonna say, 'how the hell you put a torque converter on your engine?'). is it a good idea to drive it harder or easier for a good 10k miles or what? i'm just wondering what extra precautions or maintenances i should take to ensure that it will take the best route in life it can...if you know what i'm saying. or is there anyway to do this? thx man, you sure are helpful. wow, didn't think anyone on this board knew this stuff...

    all i remember is that, maybe 1 minute, maybe 2, maybe not that long, there was a bit of white smoke out of the exhaust pipe...and i had it revved up to about 3k that whole time. so i really don't know if that's a lot of coolant. and like i said in the post, i soaked up most of the coolant--a lot of it that was in the upper manifold. another very strange thing--i didn't lose hardly ANY coolant in that fiasco. the next week i checked the antifreeze level--completely normal??? where did the water that got into the engine come from?

    thx once again, you are a big help.

    [ November 26, 2002: Message edited by: Only4U ]</p>
    2000 NBM M6 Camaro Z28<br />323/335

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    • #32
      yeah, it is always a good idea to take it easy and allow new components a period to break in. This will most likely extend the life of the part. Like they say, give new drivetrains atleast 1000 miles before you start driving it hard. This allows everything to wear together properly, extending your drivetrains life. As for precautions you can take, there are a few. If it was my bird, i would keep an eye on that coolant just incase you are leaking anywhere. Also check you engine oil very carefully when you do your oil changes. If bearings are going bad, you will see metal flakes in your oil. Also check the drain plug. Most of them have a magnet tip on them which will pick up metal shavings. If your motor has over 30,000 miles on it, no oil leaks, and you have not being using full synthetic oil, run semi synthetic oil. If under the 30k use full synthetic. Synthetic oil is composed of many different sized oil molecules and may leak out of old, worn seals, in regular oil, all the molecules are the same size, thats why i said what i did about the 30,000 miles. Synthetic is the best oil because the smaller oil molecules get deeper into engine parts and lube spots that normal oil can not. I work as a professional mechanic for a pontiac dealership and am ASE certified in Engine repair, Electrical and Electronic systems, and brakes. I am Gm certified in almost everything. If you were wondering how i knew all this [img]smile.gif[/img] . Just trying to help ya out a little.

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      • #33
        yeah, it is always a good idea to take it easy and allow new components a period to break in. This will most likely extend the life of the part. Like they say, give new drivetrains atleast 1000 miles before you start driving it hard. This allows everything to wear together properly, extending your drivetrains life. As for precautions you can take, there are a few. If it was my bird, i would keep an eye on that coolant just incase you are leaking anywhere. Also check you engine oil very carefully when you do your oil changes. If bearings are going bad, you will see metal flakes in your oil. Also check the drain plug. Most of them have a magnet tip on them which will pick up metal shavings. If your motor has over 30,000 miles on it, no oil leaks, and you have not being using full synthetic oil, run semi synthetic oil. If under the 30k use full synthetic. Synthetic oil is composed of many different sized oil molecules and may leak out of old, worn seals, in regular oil, all the molecules are the same size, thats why i said what i did about the 30,000 miles. Synthetic is the best oil because the smaller oil molecules get deeper into engine parts and lube spots that normal oil can not. I work as a professional mechanic for a pontiac dealership and am ASE certified in Engine repair, Electrical and Electronic systems, and brakes. I am Gm certified in almost everything. If you were wondering how i knew all this [img]smile.gif[/img] . Just trying to help ya out a little.

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