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Considering moving the stock battery to the trunk...hehe
Sound like a good idea? Will there be problems with the gauge of wire or the length of wire I use???
[img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]
Or am I just a CrackHead?? [img]graemlins/dunce.gif[/img]
Raised Air Box, Tbyrne Air box, 8mm wires, platinum plus +4 plugs, <br />deleted maf screen, free ram air mod, free/homemade CAI, SS \"fully-functional\" hood, removed weight shit, 93 octane,etc.<br />all to run a best of 14.85 @ 90.88 mph!
I have seen guys do this to put in a supercharger (well one guy Lol) but if you odn't plan on it I personally don't think its worth the hastle, plus you usually end up putting it where the spare goes and thats just plain silly~!
RedLineVSix <br />95 Patriot Red Trans Am, M6, 3.42\'s,no rear tires<br />(SOLD!)97 Silver Camaro 3.8 Liter A4 3.42 + LSD, 1pc DS, and one messed up speedo :)
It depends. If you're looking for better weight distribution and stuff, sure, you can do it. Personally, if I was going to do it, I'd get one of those really light Dynabat dry cell battery's and put that in the spare tire compartment. I don't keep my spare tire in cuz I don't drive long distances a lot, mostly within 30 miles of home. Guys do this just to lower the weight of the car for better acceleration, have more weight in the rear for a more blalanced car in corners as well as having better weight transfer to the rear during hard acceleration, so yeah, you can do it and it'll help a little bit, not so much that you'll really feel it, but it is a bit time consuming and you gotta run a bunch of cable up to the engine bay, so it's kinda work intensive.
2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />More mods than I\'m allowed to list!
I have done it before and it makes a HUGE difference!!!!
38 lbs off the nose.
I, at one point, rigged up the battery in the spare tire well and the relocation of the 38 lbs to the rear traction side (right side) really did help.
This is something I plan on doing again soon and also add a battery cut off switch too.
When I did it the first time I just rigged it up. I ran lines that were not thick enough and eventually ran into starting problems.
The nose rises up significantly which improves traction and launching etc.
Will you go quicker in the 1/4, probably not.
Will it help your launch, most likely.
Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet
12secv6 ty...finally got a real answer
Magnus would probably say the same thing as you did
Raised Air Box, Tbyrne Air box, 8mm wires, platinum plus +4 plugs, <br />deleted maf screen, free ram air mod, free/homemade CAI, SS \"fully-functional\" hood, removed weight shit, 93 octane,etc.<br />all to run a best of 14.85 @ 90.88 mph!
way ahead of you, i want to do it but its hard to find time and all that, but here's a link, kinda pricy but i bet if you really wanted you could rig something up your self, and as far as wiring i have no idea use something big though...
If you do this, it should for sure be a dry cell battery. Wet cell (regular lead acid) give off hydrogen as a byproduct of their chemical reactions. If you put it into a small enclosed area, like a trunk or spare tire compartemet, the hydrogen will build up. Now this is bad, because hydrogen is explosive/flamable. Not only that, but you wouldn't put a bucket of acid in your trunk, would you? Sometimes when lead acid batteries go bad, they can over-flow, over-heat, or explode. Or in an accident it may leak out onto you. So if you do this, you should probably go with a dry cell battery.
For a daily driver where the car doesn't see a lot of track or autocross time, I don't see a whole lot of point in doing this mod. It would be cool and definitely benificial if you were racing it alot in competitions such as the tracks, but for normal street racing (if that is what you mainly do), I think your money would be better off modifying another system of the car.
- Josh<br />If you have any questions or need installation pics/help, e-mail me: Viper98885@aol.com<br /><a href=\"http://Camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/viper98885\" target=\"_blank\">\'93 Camaro Hardtop</a><br /><a href=\"http://Camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/01lincolnls8\" target=\"_blank\">\'01 Lincoln LS8 Sport</a><br />\'00 Yamaha YZF-R6<br /><a href=\"http://www.ftpp.net\" target=\"_blank\">Full Throttle Performance</a>
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Magnus: Instead of relocating my battery, I'm buying a light weight one for about $50.. many people were raving about it on the ls1tech drag racing forum.
Its about 13 lbs I believe.<hr></blockquote>
For $50???
Where???
One of my local buddies (kerminator) runs 11.4.
He has the light weight batteyr in the stock location.
It is good for a track only car.
At night w/ headlights on or any demand on power and it can't handle it :(
Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet
kinda off the topic question guys, but do the Orbital batteries weigh less than regular car batterys? I know the big thing with them is that you can mount them almost anywhere and they won't leak acid all over the place, but other than that, are they also lighter?
Hey everyone! I've been trying to remove my transmission for two days now! I need to replace the clutch. Only thing I've got left holding the transmission...
Hello, so I changed the front bearings on the bird and the ABS inoperative light came on. I made a mistake of not removing negative battery cable. Now...
I usually have to double, triple my headlight switch for them to come up on my 97 Firebird. I cleaned all connections. Could it be the headlight switch...
3 weeks ago
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