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Installed manual fan switch and still warms up past 210
Originally posted by navyblue2000: ALL 99+ F-bodies got an "idiot light" for a temperature gauge that goes to, and stays at 210*. Back when I had autotap I confirmed this.
The change was made when it we believed that an accurate temperature gauge going from 160* to 210* over 2 ticks would cause a lot of needle fluctuation - and a lot of worried drivers.
It's a dummy gauge now.
ditto, if your that worried about your temp get a nice little autometer for 30$ and your done. I came across the same situation. Even my truck does it.
where can u get one of those and what do they look like my temp has stuck at 175 but here recently it has jumped up to 210 and 220 a few times kinda scared me but i bout to get a MAJOR tuneup as i am sitting at 101000 miles
I have a 180 t-stat, my car has never, even in the hottest houston weather got close to 210. The only way i can make it hit 210 is to turn the air conditioning off and have the car not moving, it will hit 210 the fans will come on and hold the temp at 210. Some people will try to tell you that with a 180 your gas milage will decrease, and your car wont pass inspection. With my 180, i have had no problems, and i like a cooler running engine.
<a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261</a> Green 1997, 105k, all stock except for Z28 front springs, Air shocks in the rear, home made coolant recovery tank, home made battery hold down.
My car does the opposite, it doesn't get really hot unless I turn the AC on and it also gets hot while driving on the express way. Yesterday I drove to orlando with the AC on and the car warmed up to 225-230. Once I turned the AC off it cooled down to 215-220. Then when I finally got into the city driving the temp went down to a little over 210.
I tried to get a coolant flush before I left that morning at an oil change place (because it can't do it myself at my apartment complex) but they were giving me crap that dex cool can not be changed till about 100-150,000 miles because of its cycle life. He took the radiator cap off looked inside and said the fluid looked good but I am pretty sure its not. I looked at the fluid level stick in my resivoir and the bottom was brownish orange and chunky. I need to take it to a place where they know what they are talking about.
Modifications:<br />headers, throtle bod spacer, flowmaster, high flow magnaflow carsound cat, powerdyne sc with 2.9\" pulley and by-pass valve, walboro 255 fuel pump, spec stage 2 clutch, and HP Tuners
What a dumb***, you can change your coolant as often as you want, you dont need to wait till 100k. Is your coil dirty, might have dirt or bugs clogging it up. Take a good water hose and spray up in there clean it out real good. When i changed my t stat, it was because my radiator was leaking, i also took out my resivoir, washed it out with soap, found out that it was craked at the top, bought a new after market one at pepboys, about half the size. guess im lucky ive never to have any major problems with my car.
<a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261</a> Green 1997, 105k, all stock except for Z28 front springs, Air shocks in the rear, home made coolant recovery tank, home made battery hold down.
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