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  • might need oil pan replacement, please help!

    Hey guys,

    Here's the story for all that don't know. I have a 1994 chevy camaro 3.4. When I bought it 4 years ago it had a stripped drain plug in the oil pan. It always sealed up enough to stop a leak at the drain plug. Around March of 2003 I changed the oil and it no longer sealed up. I took it to one place which half as*ed fixed it and said no leak. Well it was still leaking. Took it to another place and they put some fancy drain plug in and said that should fix it. Well now almost a year later, yesterday I changed my oil through this vaccum deal that sucks it up the dipstick since I am scared to mess with the drain nut anymore, got it all out, put new oil in, started it up, drove it around, parked it. When I came back later that night it looked like some had leaked out of the drain nut again!. I can't believe this. It is so annoying it isn't even funny. I drove it to work and parket it on a slight angle towards the passenger side where the drain plug is and placed some cardboard under it. When I leave today I'll see how much dripped out. Usually I park on a hill where it puts all the oil in the back of the pan so it doesn't drip out of the plug area.

    So now I must decide what to do. My car has 68k miles. I have endoured a blown head gasket, a load of sensors, a smog fail thanks to a EGR. I am at the point where I might consider selling it so I don't have to deal with this problem anymore. Nothing else seems to go wrong but this definately does.

    My question is.........how much is it to replace the oil pan? I'd take it to the dealer to make them do it if it gives me a better warrenty then a mom and pop shop. I didn't plan on spending any money on it but I can't afford to have the motor blow up or go or die. I'd be willing to invest the $300-500 at the most to fix it so it doesn't happen again. I know the real fix is replacing the oil pan and pan gaskets since that has to happen with changing a oil pan. I am wondering how much a new oil pan and install would cost. I figure if I get it fixed now I can afford to keep it for another year or so and sell it. If it's like a $800 job then I'll have to think about JB welding the plug in and trading the car in and getting something else. I just don't want to keep dumping money into it.

    So any suggestions on how hard it is to change this out? Could I do it with the car on ramps? I've never changed an oil pan but would be willing to try. How much would a shop/dealer want for the oil pan and to change it out? The only thing I can try at this point is to get on the drain nut with a wrench and snug it up and hope that stops the oil from leaking anymore. I may try and call the shop I had it done at and see if they can take a look at it again.

    Any suggestions on this would be greatly appricated.

    Chris

  • #2
    it shouldnt be that expensive... i dont know about our cars specifically, but its not difficeult to do yourself at all.
    - \"So you have something to look at when you\'re talking to \'em\" - <br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=296916\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=296916</a>

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    • #3
      Actually the 3.4 oil pan removal/replacement is kind of tricky. There isn't enough clearance to just drop the pan, so you have to raise the engine to get enough clearance to pull the pan and put a new one in. Probably count on a whole saturday.
      1993 Camaro 3.4L A4 many mods comin for 2004<br /><br />\"The last thing I wanted was to get in a fight in Jackson, Mississippi on a Saturday night\"

      Comment


      • #4
        The clearnece issues? Can you elaborate on what exactly they are? From looking at it it doesn't look like there would be any issues.

        I might just try and get it to stop the drip. If it doesn't drip then I might be fine. Any ideas on how to do this without dropping the pan? Otherwise the car is in ok shape but I don't want to think about selling it with a dripping oil pan drain plug.

        Any help would be appricated.

        Chris

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        • #5
          I think I remember seeing a price on those for like $60~$80 bucks or so from dealer. Not too bad. Just raise engine up high enough to get to front bolts & have at it. Also, price of oil pan & gasket is a lot less than a new/er car payment.
          1978 Formula 461 in progress of being built :rock:
          2013 Ram 1500 Big Horn

          former owner of 85 bird w/ 2.8 - 3.4 - 3800 II - 5.0
          94 comero 3.4

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          • #6
            You have to be able to lower the oil pan enough to clear the crank and rods - they hang down into the pan area. In many RWD cars, the front crossmember prevents the oil pan from being lowered enough to clear the crank, so you have to undo the engine mounts and jack up the motor a bit to pull the pan out.

            - Justin
            <a href=\"http://www.njfboa.org\" target=\"_blank\">New Jersey F-Body Owners Association</a><br />1987 Camaro LT - 400sbc, Aluminum L98\'s w/valve job, Comp XE 274, Q-Junk 750, 3.23 posi, 4.10\'s soon.<br /><br /><a href=\"http://www.njfboa.org/forums/viewforum.php?f=11\" target=\"_blank\">East Coast F-Body Nationals - August 14, 2005</a>

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            • #7
              I need to have my oil pan replaced. Its got a crack in it, but its up high so it will only leak out about half a quart but there are still all kinds of oil spots out infront of my house and in my driveway from it, heh.

              It'll be about $250 - $300 to have the oil pan replaced, Ive already checked
              \'01 Trans Am WS6 5.7L M6<br />Stock now w/ K&N and whisper lid<br />Coming soon: B&B Triflow catback, MAF, 85mm throttlebody, headers, supercharger?

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              • #8
                You might be able to drill & retap new threads in the pan for the next size larger drain plug.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Golbez:
                  It'll be about $250 - $300 to have the oil pan replaced, Ive already checked
                  [img]graemlins/omg.gif[/img] Time for some Shade Tree mechanic intervention!!!!!
                  1978 Formula 461 in progress of being built :rock:
                  2013 Ram 1500 Big Horn

                  former owner of 85 bird w/ 2.8 - 3.4 - 3800 II - 5.0
                  94 comero 3.4

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    are you sitting there trying to tell me duct tape dont fix a leak!?!?!?!? ****, u need to come down here to AZ and that thing el' get fixed in no time...

                    beer 5$
                    duct tape 5$
                    tie wraps just in case another 5$
                    nooin u gone done it the right way... we'll see on the drive home...
                    !! Drive it like you stole it !!<br /><br />I believe forgiving them is gods function, our job is to arrange the meeting <br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.azclubgp.com/garage.php?mode=viewgarage&u=202\" target=\"_blank\">2002 GTP 40th Anniversary Edition Sedan</a> <br />-------------<br />Mods:<br />3.4\" Pulley<br />rigged K&N Filter<br />14.3 et

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                    • #11
                      You will definitely have to get the crossmember out of the way to get the oil pan out. Some people say raise the engine, but if you do, the cowl will get in the way when the upper intake manifold hits it.

                      Instead, lower the crossmember. This will be MUCH easier. If you have a cherry picker, use it to suspend the engine. If not, get about 4 2x4's and bolt them together. Make sure that they will span the strut towers. Then, use 2 chains to suspend the engine from the top side from the 2x4s. This may sound crazy, but I have done it on an LS1 twice and a 3.4L V6 once. The engine won't budge.

                      Then, unbolt the engine mounts and the crossmember from the frame. You will also probably have to disconnect the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles. Place a floor jack under the engine crossmember before removing the bolts from the crossmember-frame.

                      As you slowly lower the crossmember, you will gain clearance to remove the oil pan.

                      For installation...use the floor jack to place the crossmember back into place as well as lift the engine back the proper place.

                      Then the famous quote..."Installation is reversal of removal."
                      - Josh<br />If you have any questions or need installation pics/help, e-mail me: Viper98885@aol.com<br /><a href=\"http://Camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/viper98885\" target=\"_blank\">\'93 Camaro Hardtop</a><br /><a href=\"http://Camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/01lincolnls8\" target=\"_blank\">\'01 Lincoln LS8 Sport</a><br />\'00 Yamaha YZF-R6<br /><a href=\"http://www.ftpp.net\" target=\"_blank\">Full Throttle Performance</a>

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                      • #12
                        I second what chazz said.
                        Just drill it out and tap in a bigger plug.
                        Any metal shaving that you dont get out will just stay in the bottem of the oil pan or maybe (not to likly) get sucked up and caught by the filter.
                        Go and buy the tap you need for $5 at most and finding a drilll and bit should be easy enough.
                        Get a (any) bolt the same therds and size as the tap and a washer to seal to.
                        \'85 Z28, T-tops new LG4 and TH700<br />\'85 3.4L 5-speed<br />mods: <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4</a> the nitrous exhaust O2 safety, pg 3. <br />Areo space materal engineer wantabe

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Golbez:
                          I need to have my oil pan replaced. Its got a crack in it, but its up high so it will only leak out about half a quart...
                          He can't drill and tap it....it's cracked [img]tongue.gif[/img]

                          - Justin
                          <a href=\"http://www.njfboa.org\" target=\"_blank\">New Jersey F-Body Owners Association</a><br />1987 Camaro LT - 400sbc, Aluminum L98\'s w/valve job, Comp XE 274, Q-Junk 750, 3.23 posi, 4.10\'s soon.<br /><br /><a href=\"http://www.njfboa.org/forums/viewforum.php?f=11\" target=\"_blank\">East Coast F-Body Nationals - August 14, 2005</a>

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by 3.4 slow to go:
                            </font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Golbez:
                            It'll be about $250 - $300 to have the oil pan replaced, Ive already checked
                            [img]graemlins/omg.gif[/img] Time for some Shade Tree mechanic intervention!!!!! </font>[/QUOTE]JB weld will fix your problem.....it's the best :D
                            1993 Camaro 3.4L A4 many mods comin for 2004<br /><br />\"The last thing I wanted was to get in a fight in Jackson, Mississippi on a Saturday night\"

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