3.8 No Start!

[Rabid Dog]

Battery went bad a while ago, before I realised this, it would take quite a lot of "fidgeting" to get the car started when I jumped it. Eventually, it would by the grace of god, start.

The car had been hit, and the battery as it turns out was too. I replaced the battery, and all has been well since. I figured the battery being bad was the cause of the "odd" starts. Engine has been firing up since, and has been going to 15 volts steady, and no other problems.

Until today, I needed to move the car to put the front end on.

Battery is new and confirmed good. The clock comes on, the security light blinks as it should, and the radio and everything else but the ignition system seem to work.

The voltage gauge isn't even working when you turn the igntion on.

HALP! :(

[DannyV6Camaro]

sounds to me like the alternator, my battery and alternator went out at the same time, like under 30k on my car

[Rabid Dog]

The car has a fully charged battery, and will not even crank. Alternator -/= problem.

[TheGreenPunisher]

If the car has a fully charged battery, then a bad alternator should not prevent it from firing. I know this because my alternator fried 4 days ago, but my car still started fine. Its your ignition.

[Rabid Dog]

Yes, I know it's in the ignition, I'm thinking VATS.

Okay so far I've:

1. topped off the battery
2. cleaned my resistor pellet
3. checked all the fuses for any visible bad ones

The security light flashes [red led on upper dash] when the key is turned all the way to IGN, and I attempt to crank the car. Is this normal?

I've just now seen how the VATS module controls the gauges, injectors, AND ignition relay.. so I'm sure it's VATS.

Also when I get out of the car, with the hood up, I hear something "click" once under the hood about 10 seconds when the key is removed.

[ March 30, 2005, 02:11 PM: Message edited by: Rabid Dog ]

[38fury]

Does the security light stay on after you pull the key out? My contacts inside the ignition went bad so it couldn't read the key, thus it wouldn't start. A car stereo/alarm intsallation place can do the security key resistor for you (for remote starting kits) i had to find one that would just do that, all the other places said they couldn't do it unless i bought a 400$ alarm/remote start. (which is bs) They can do it, it just depends on if they want to or not.

[Rabid Dog]

Well it only blinks now if I try and start the car with the door open.

If I close the door and attempt to start it normally, no light.

Other than that, it just blinks when I open the door, or pop the hood. Although, it used too.. odd.

I dont remember hearing it ding lately either, I hope the BCM isn't faulty. Although all my other stuff works. it's like the computer is unconscious.. bleh

[Rabid Dog]

okay, the "big" lead on the starter read 12.48 volts, the "little" lead is getting no juice at all normally, or when you turn the ignition to "start" for switched power.

(used red probe on the big lead, black probe on case of starter to test)
(used red probe on small lead, black on case of starter to test)

Thing is, this screams VATS, but the neither the red dash led, or the gauge security indicator are lit up. I can even hear the fuel pump turn on and prime.

aargh..