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  • Replacing rotors

    I need to replace my front rotors on my 97 they are warped pretty bad. Should I change the pads at the same time, they are not worn out yet. Also, does anyone have an install guide for doing brakes on these cars? This will be the first time I am replacing the brakes myself.

    As far as rotors go, are autozone rotors still good replacements? If I should replace the pads, any suggestions on them?

    Thanks

  • #2
    autozone rotors will work as long as you get a warranty [img]smile.gif[/img] pads dont need to be changed as far as i know but if you go ahead and do it, just get the factory replacement. i haven't pulled a caliper off an f-body yet, but its suppose to be simple. after that, the rotors pull off
    2000 3.8 A4 Pewter Camaro

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    • #3
      you should be just fine with autozone rotors for oem replacements. you do not need to replace the pads at this time. if you havnt picked one up i suggest a hanes manual, it will help you with everything from simple things like a rotor replacement up to the most difficult of work. check one out when you head to autozone for your rotors.

      theres just a couple bolts holding the rear calipers on. the front ones are pretty much the same, plus one that youll need an allen wrench for. i forget what size it is though. yank them off, then replace the rotors. youll probably need a caliper depressor, or at least a c-clamp and a block of wood to press the calipers before you put them on. its a pretty straightforward job.

      96 V6 A4 Camaro and 99 Z28 A4 Camaro
      Visit My F-Body Page

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Loochy88:
        you should be just fine with autozone rotors for oem replacements. you do not need to replace the pads at this time. if you havnt picked one up i suggest a hanes manual, it will help you with everything from simple things like a rotor replacement up to the most difficult of work. check one out when you head to autozone for your rotors.

        theres just a couple bolts holding the rear calipers on. the front ones are pretty much the same, plus one that youll need an allen wrench for. i forget what size it is though. yank them off, then replace the rotors. youll probably need a caliper depressor, or at least a c-clamp and a block of wood to press the calipers before you put them on. its a pretty straightforward job.
        Thanks for the help. Will I still need to use the c-clamp if I don't replace the pads?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by 97v6firebird:
          </font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Loochy88:
          you should be just fine with autozone rotors for oem replacements. you do not need to replace the pads at this time. if you havnt picked one up i suggest a hanes manual, it will help you with everything from simple things like a rotor replacement up to the most difficult of work. check one out when you head to autozone for your rotors.

          theres just a couple bolts holding the rear calipers on. the front ones are pretty much the same, plus one that youll need an allen wrench for. i forget what size it is though. yank them off, then replace the rotors. youll probably need a caliper depressor, or at least a c-clamp and a block of wood to press the calipers before you put them on. its a pretty straightforward job.
          Thanks for the help. Will I still need to use the c-clamp if I don't replace the pads? </font>[/QUOTE]Yes, either way. When you tighten the C-clamp, be sure the brake resevoir cap is opened, as pushing the calipers back will cause a rise.

          And it is better if you change the pads, as the pads are prolly "set" to the old rotor pattern.
          1999 Pewter Camaro M5<br />Y87 Performance Package, Sport Appearance Package, Diamond Clears<br />Factory SS Hood, Free Ram Air Mod, Whisper Lid w/ K&N Air Filter<br />CarSound Cat 94009, B&B Tri-Flo w/ Quad Tips<br />BMR SFC, BMR STB, KVR Blank Rotors, Hawk HPS Pads<br />Black Painted Calipers w/ CAMARO Decal, 245/50 Dunlop SP Sport 5000<br />20% Rear 35% Side Tint, Red Reflective Inlays, Invincishield<br /><b>Young girls avert their eyes, weak men tremble, Ford dealers faint.</b>

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          • #6
            if you go with the auto zone rotors, DO NOT get the valucrap er um valucraft ones. They are cheap for a reason, the braking part of the rotor is thin, there are less cooling veins between the surfaces. Go with the duralast ones. They may be a bit more expensive, but take it from someone on the "inside" it's worth it. They wont warp as easily. I do work at Autozone part time to make extra money to mod the camaro :D
            1995 Camaro 3.4L Black with T tops, 5 speed manual<br /><br />Mods:<br />Pro 5.0 short throw shifter, MSD Ignition coils, 3.73 gears, Torsen LSD,Mac diff cover, Umi LCAs<br />K&N Cold Air Intake, Window Tint (20% rear, 35%front), aluminum driveshaft, fastchip tuning

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            • #7
              why don't you resurface the old ones???
              2005 Magnum

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              • #8
                Originally posted by l1tech:
                why don't you resurface the old ones???
                They have 80,000 miles on them and have already been resurfaced once.

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                • #9
                  as long as they are within tolerance that shouldn't be a problem
                  2005 Magnum

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                  • #10
                    i got quoted at a local shop once for a resurface that was more than replacements :rolleyes:
                    2000 3.8 A4 Pewter Camaro

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                    • #11
                      If your going to replace the rotors yourself..then take them off and have auto zone or pep boys or someplace like that resurface them...I thik pep boys was doing it for like 5 bucks each...and if some shop quoted you more to resurface them than to replace them...let's just say I wouldn't go back there again, only takes me about 15 minutes to resurface a set of rotors
                      2005 Magnum

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                      • #12
                        Remember to use a torque wrench and properly torque all bolts and your lug nuts to the right values. I think more warping is due to uneven or improper torquing than most anything else.

                        Second would be to give the new brake and rotor combo a proper bedding. This will help braking performance and also reduce risk of future warping.
                        Drivetrain Moderator - "There are no stupid questions, only stupid people!"

                        2001 Pewter Firebird Y87, M5
                        Intake, exhaust, just about every suspension part, alum flywheel & ds, Turn One p/s pump and cooler

                        Go Sabres!

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                        • #13
                          I picked up the rotors today. Still debating on if I should change the pads or not. I think they have about 40,000 miles on them, but when they were replaced last time, I had it done at the dealer and they are guranteed so when they go out again they will replace them for free so it doesn't make a lot of sense to replace them now.

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                          • #14
                            Doing my pads this weekend also , what are the calipers bolts torqued to?
                            97SILVERBID<br />Born to cruise

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                            • #15
                              http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm

                              Go Under "Install Documents" on the left side of the page, and then scroll down to the "braking" section and click on the "brake pad and rotor swap"

                              GREAT site with excellent pictures for newbies like me.

                              That site says to torque the caliper bolts to 23 ft-lbs.
                              2001 S.O.M. Firechicken 3.8L V6, auto.

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