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  • new compressor install

    Hey guys, the ac quit, so I took it to a shop so they could diagnose the problem, said my compressor was bad, so I have bought the compressor and a new accumulator, and had the system completely evacuated out. Any tips on how to do this or make it go smoother?

    James
    1995 convertible Firebird 3.8L, Silver w/Black Top<br /><br />Mods: 18x9 Mille Miglia Evo5 wrapped in 245/40/18 Continental ContiExtreme, Power Acoustic Gothic Series 640w amp, 2 10\" Fat Boy Crunch Woofers in custom fit box.

  • #2
    Hey, did it, took about 3 hours total since I've never touched an AC system before, but it works great, feels like a freezer with a fan blowing the cold air out. Definitely colder than before my compressor took a **** on me.

    Quick how-to:
    Items needed:
    a new/refurbished compressor- $100,
    a new/refurbished accumulator- $35 online,
    a pressure guage for the low side port- I paid $18 for one from autozone,
    3 little cans of R134a- $6 each,
    1 little can of special oil for the AC- $6
    Get system prof. evacuated- $20 at Tireman

    Steps:
    1. Get the system professionally evacuated.

    2. Disconnect lines going to old accumulator, throw away o-rings, new accumulator should come with new ones. Disconnect the wire from the top of the compressor. Take off serpentine belt by using a wrench on the tensioner pulley bolt and trying to turn it counter-clockwise.

    3. Take off bolts holding compressor down. There are 3 main bolts in the front, and a smaller one on top of the compressor in the back of it that goes directly into the block (it is also one of the ground connections). You will see one bolt right away on the right side of the compressor(if you are standing in front of the car) the other two are on the top and bottom of the front of the compressor, use your fingers to find them as you can't see them. You will need an extension for the ratchet to get to the bolts. after removing the 3 main bolts you will find that the compressor is still hanging there like normal. Now take off the fourth bolt mentioned earlier (pain in the *** to get to huh?) and the compressor should now be free to move.

    4. There is one bolt on bottom of compressor holding hoses onto it, take off the bolt and disconnect the hoses. There are two other bolts holding the bracket onto the back of the compressor, take these off and put bracket on new compressor, then connect the hoses to the new compressor as well. Put compressor back into place, I started with the back bolt, but I suppose it doesn't really matter which bolt you start with. Connect wires to new compressor.

    5. Put in new accumulator, oil up new o-rings before connecting lines again. Connect pressure gauge and connect the can of AC oil to the hose first to put into the accumulator. Put in entire can of oil, then start the car and start adding R134a with the air set to max ac. Fill until the pressure is at about 40 psi on the guage, while filling you should see the clutch engage on the compressor, once there is enough pressure in the system. Go by the guage and do not fill higher than 45 psi at the most.

    5. You should now have some ice cold AC, it's probably hot outside (because who in the hell would do his during the winter??) So grab a cold beer and sit inside your car and enjoy the work you put into it and the fact that you were probably quoted about $1k for repair at the shop.

    note: Some cans of R134a have AC oil in them, so it eliminates the need for a separate can of oil.

    James

    [ August 23, 2003: Message edited by: Jaguar5822 ]</p>
    1995 convertible Firebird 3.8L, Silver w/Black Top<br /><br />Mods: 18x9 Mille Miglia Evo5 wrapped in 245/40/18 Continental ContiExtreme, Power Acoustic Gothic Series 640w amp, 2 10\" Fat Boy Crunch Woofers in custom fit box.

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    • #3
      Read your description with interst, but have a question.

      I read in step one that you had the system discharged before you started work, but I don't see where you had the system evacuated after you completed your install and before you recharged the system with new 134a. Did you do that or is it not necessary on your type of system?
      2001 Camaro M5 Coupe(1 of 2,737), no options, Whisper Lid, K&N Air Filter, Free Ram Air, MAFS Screen removed, SLP Manual Fan Switch, 160 thermo, DEE\'s T/B Spacer, EGR Block-off plate, IAT resistor, CAI to EGR air feed, B&M Ripper Shifter, SLP Replacement Grill, T/A Exhaust, SLP five spoke take-off wheels, BMR strut-tower brace, BMR Tunnel Brace, BMR 32/21 front & rear sway bars with poly, BMR Poly/Combo Rear Control Arms, Clear front & rear corners, HPP3 modified 87 Octane program.<p><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/red2k1\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/red2k1</a>

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