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  • Coolant Flush

    How to completely flush the coolant system:
    >Start with a cool engine, and remove the coolant overflow bottle under the battery to completely flush it out. I sprayed a degreaser into it and let it sit for about an hour to get rid of the brown muck.

    1-Drain the radiator. There is a black plastic screw at the bottom of it, passenger side. You can remove it all the way, but it will drain just fine by unscrewing it halfway too.

    2-Remove the upper radiator hose to get to the thermostat. Remove the thermostat and re-install the hose to the engine. This helps flush the engine's coolant faster.

    3-Fill the radiator with water, leave radiator cap off, and start engine for about 10-20 seconds, then turn off. This allows the remaining coolant inside of the engine circulate into the radiator.

    4-Drain radiator again, and repeat step #3 several times to completely flush the system. It may take a good 4-7 times to get all of the coolant flushed out.

    5-After you get all of the coolant flushed, make sure the radiator is fully drained, leave the drain plug open and start the engine for approximately 5-10 seconds to get some of the coolant out of the engine for the last time. TURN ENGINE OFF!!

    6-Tighten the radiator drain plug, fill radiator with new coolant, re-install new thermostat with gasket and rubber seal, cap the radiator, re-install the coolant overflow bottle & fill with coolant to the "cold" position, start engine for approximately 5 minutes. Make sure it reaches operating temperature and stays there for a few minutes, then turn off and wait 10 minutes to cool down.

    7-Re-check the radiator coolant level under the cap by slowly removing it, and check the coolant level in the bottle...top off if needed. Also, check for leaks around the thermostat and radiator drain plug.

    NOTE; This is not a hard procedure, just time consuming. I tried to explain it as easy as possible. If I've missed any details, please point them out. Farewell Dex-Cool!
    sigpic

  • #2
    Great thread!

    For 3.8 owners, they will need make use to the bleeder screw near the thermostat housing (I think that's where it is) to get the extra air out.

    3.4 owners have it harder. They have to fill up the radiator, wait till they see bubbles coming out from the radiator cap (the cap is off, BTW), then when the thermo opens, you will see a lot of coolant rush downwards. Once this happens, pour in more coolant until its near the top <---thats how I was told to do it.

    Oh, and while trying to get all the coolant out, RUN YOUR HEATER AT HIGH!!! This gets coolant out from the heater core.
    --<b>David</b>--<br /><a href=\"http://bryant2.bryant.edu/~dsantore/index.htm\" target=\"_blank\">The <b>NEW</b> V6Bird Website!</a> <br /><a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/thev6bird\" target=\"_blank\">Cardomain site</a><br />ΔX

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    • #3
      nice write-up. there has been a lot of threads on this lately, nice to see something a bit more comprehensive in one spot.

      reminds me.... need to change my coolant! :(
      \'01 Mineral Grey SVT Cobra<br />-former F-body owner

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      • #4
        Originally posted by TheV6Bird:
        Great thread!

        For 3.8 owners, they will need make use to the bleeder screw near the thermostat housing (I think that's where it is) to get the extra air out.

        3.4 owners have it harder. They have to fill up the radiator, wait till they see bubbles coming out from the radiator cap (the cap is off, BTW), then when the thermo opens, you will see a lot of coolant rush downwards. Once this happens, pour in more coolant until its near the top &lt;---thats how I was told to do it.

        Oh, and while trying to get all the coolant out, RUN YOUR HEATER AT HIGH!!! This gets coolant out from the heater core.
        i never used the srew just keep the cap off the rad untill it stops taking fluid all the air will escape that way much easier and less messy (eh only if the coolent is cold lol
        www.turbov6camaro.com
        1997 3800 Series II Camaro
        4600 Stall for my ride to the mall :chug:
        7.18 @ 99.77 1/8 -1.8x sixty (current quickest v6 fbod)
        11.23 @ unk 5 1/4 - 7.19 1/8 - 1.83 sixty

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        • #5
          I never thought of turning the heat on to get the stuff from the heater core...damn! Thanks for the comments though.
          sigpic

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          • #6
            Originally posted by hockeyman:
            I never thought of turning the heat on to get the stuff from the heater core...damn! Thanks for the comments though.
            The coolant will still flow through the heater core even if the heater is turned off (what you're controlling there is the fans and ducting to adjust the amount of hot air let through). This is why your heater core can spring a leak in the middle of summer. [img]smile.gif[/img]
            <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/kefkafloyd\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/kefkafloyd</a> <br />Red 1997 Pontiac Firebird 3.8L A4 w/ Y87

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            • #7
              we should put this as a sticky so everyone will know how to flush the whole system

              [ October 11, 2004, 11:01 PM: Message edited by: BLLDOGG ]
              2000 3.8 A4 Pewter Camaro

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              • #8
                I recently drained and flushed my cooling system.
                I stuck with the Dex-Cool because i feel this coolant is just as good as the green stuff. I hear of people having problems with the Dex-Cool, but in most cases it is due to a lack of coolant maintenance. With Dex-Cool it is important to maintain the proper level of fluid.
                The cooling system is actually said to be one of the most over-looked aspects of automobile maintance. It is also said to be one of the most important systems too.

                Anyway... it even helps to leave the radiator cap off while running the engine for a little bit after you are done, it helps to get air out. Air in the cooling system is no good.
                2000 Monterey Maroon Chevrolet Camaro<br />3.8L V-6/4spd Auto

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