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Just changed the starter with a new one.... same thing, no start.
Battery is fine.
Fuel psi is there.
Wiring checked and recehcked.
Starter claims it can be started with a min of 8 volts... I'm at 11.7.
I found the neutral safety switch and attempted to bypass it. I took a wire with male connections on either side, I dissconnected the neatral safety switch and put one end in the brown wire and one in the yellow wire section.
According to my chilton's manual, it looks like those are the only relevant wires.
I am at a loss.
I am NOT bringing it to a dealer.... as soon as they see my car they will refuse it.... it is... NOT STOCK.
I don't have access to a scanner... because they are at the dealer.
Any suggestions?
Can of gas?
so it does not even try to crank? the N-safty on the auto car is 2 of the 8 wires coming out of the shifter......... you can by pass it
www.turbov6camaro.com 1997 3800 Series II Camaro 4600 Stall for my ride to the mall :chug: 7.18 @ 99.77 1/8 -1.8x sixty (current quickest v6 fbod) 11.23 @ unk 5 1/4 - 7.19 1/8 - 1.83 sixty
It hasn't done this since the whole ordeal started.
The neutral safety switch has:
Brown wire (big)
Yellow wire (big)
green wire (small)
Brown wire (small)
Orange wire with black stripe (small)
Black wire with white stripe (small)
I dissconnected it and attached the brown (big) and yellow (big) with a piece of wire with connectors in it... and nothing :(
Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet
It hasn't done this since the whole ordeal started.
The neutral safety switch has:
Brown wire (big)
Yellow wire (big)
green wire (small)
Brown wire (small)
Orange wire with black stripe (small)
Black wire with white stripe (small)
I dissconnected it and attached the brown (big) and yellow (big) with a piece of wire with connectors in it... and nothing :(
let me go look at mine one brown is for the revers lights and one is for the N safty
For the neutral safety part....take the yellow wire and Brown (or was it also a yellow) wire from under your old clutch pedal. These you wire into and extend the wires up to where your shifter is now. New colors on the neutral safety switch are yellow and brown (or yellow again in some cases). Colors are all going to stay the same on this part of the install, as long as you are using an OEM pigtail for the switch!
www.turbov6camaro.com 1997 3800 Series II Camaro 4600 Stall for my ride to the mall :chug: 7.18 @ 99.77 1/8 -1.8x sixty (current quickest v6 fbod) 11.23 @ unk 5 1/4 - 7.19 1/8 - 1.83 sixty
Might need to check out all you power wires, see if you have any problems.
I once thought an alternator crapped out on my 3.4L after an autocross, Went to store they checked the power coming from the alternator. 0 so I picked on up got home and got ready to install it to see the wire off the back of the alternator was corroded and had "broken" off. I trimmed it to put a new clip on, the wire was corroded up the wire, I just cut the wire out and replaced it with a $4 battery cable off the self at Vatozone.
Maybe check out grounds?
-Eric<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/mustangeater82\" target=\"_blank\">2000 NBM V6 Camaro 5-speed</a> T-top <i>converted</i><br /><b>14.467@95.45mph</b> <i>$0 in mods</i><br /><i>The member formerly known as MustangEater8251</i>
So, if I took a wire and jammed it into the connection to the big brown and big yellow that would be, in ecense, bypassing the neutral safety switch correct?
Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet
So, if I took a wire and jammed it into the connection to the big brown and big yellow that would be, in ecense, bypassing the neutral safety switch correct?
yes
do you have a muti meter?
set it on contenuity (the little >)))) symbol )
it should conect them in P and N no other gears you could have a bad/out of adjustment switch on the shifter
www.turbov6camaro.com 1997 3800 Series II Camaro 4600 Stall for my ride to the mall :chug: 7.18 @ 99.77 1/8 -1.8x sixty (current quickest v6 fbod) 11.23 @ unk 5 1/4 - 7.19 1/8 - 1.83 sixty
i wish i lived a liitle closer to you. i'd come up there and take a look at it . sounds like a loose electrical connection to me . are all the fuses good . if you have no power to the small trminal on the starter you need to trace the wire till you find the power agian . Looks like there is a fusable link in the circuit i'd start with seeing if it's burnt .
and on the saftey switch the wire locations are e -being yellow and f-being brown . do you have check gauge lights come on when you switch it on . ie airbag light ,battery and such?
why must you do things the hardway....I told you the starter was fine...well assumed it was since you werent getting power to the starter solenoid....well, hopefully it's the N safety switch, If not I sure you can run down to pep-boys and buy a big "START" button :D just put it next to the nitrous switch, dont worry, it'll look cool :p would you please jump that damn starter already!!!!!
It sounds like you have either clipped a wire or shorted a fuse/relay. I know you have been doing a lot of weight reduction, the best bet would be to start looking wherever you have cut or yanked anything since the last time you know it started fine. I don't know what components you still have on the car, but my first step would be to check anything that you have that would work only in the key on position. Wipers, turn signals and anything else you may still have. Narrow it down to one individual circuit.
Don't get discouraged, trying to locate a wiring problem is one of the most time consuming, aggravating things you can do on a car. The only thing I can say is process of elimination. Start at the ignition, look for a yellow wire(in a bundle at the steering column), not the extra thick one that's air bags, it should be a regular sized wire, 16/12 gauge maybe. This is the wire that engages the selonoid to crank the starter.
Once you find it, cut a small slit so you can put a volt meter through the insulation as close to the ignition as possible. If you don't want to cut the insulation, use a safety pin and put it through the wire. Once you can get good contact with the wire turn the key all the way forward as if you were starting it, not just in the on position, you should get whatever voltage the battery level is at. If you have that, keep going further down until you reach the starter, you'll find it. If you have power that eliminates anything to do ith VATS/ignition cylinder.
If you don't get power that is when it will become tricky, especially with the BCM and every other thing GM put into the electrics. Like I said, it is a process of elimination.
If you want it to start regardless, that's just as simple. I know you said you don't like jumping circuits and bridging, but this will do the trick without placing you in danger under the car. Go get a push button switch, hook one of the connectors on the switch to a constant 12 volt source and the other side to the small wire on the Starter(should be yellow). Turn the key to the on position and push the button, let out when it starts. Make sure you get a spring loaded switch that only completes the crcuit while pushed, not one that stays on when you release the button.
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3 weeks ago
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