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and with it Antifreeze happily spewing in each every direction... I got out and the ground was flooded with Antifreeze, popped the hood and sure enough the water pump happily took a dump... How much is this going to cost for the part? I can replace I think... Is it straight forward or do I need to look out for anything?
Another thing to add to my long list of Camaro Happy Repairs...
95-97 3.8L water pump at autozone;
#BWP-9016 for $34.99
I found that it was relatively easy to replace ~as compared to most of the other water pumps I installed over the years. I removed the serpentine belt and air intake stuff, and it was basically right in front of me. Hardest part for me was catching the coolant in a bucket.
I like what i saw in the "Upgrade" link but... it states for '98 and above Camaro/Firebird. Our fellow who needs a waterpump here has a '97 model. Does anyone make an electric waterpump for 1996-1997 V6 3800's?
Black \'96 RS Camaro, 3.8 V6 Series II, M5, Stock 200 HP, 204K miles! Stock \'91 Firebird 3.1 V6 automatic w/ overdrive. 266,400 miles on it. \'83 Pontiac Trans Am,305 LG4, Cowl Induction,Borg Warner 5 Speed,T-Tops,Gale Banks Exhaust System:$800 obo
I realized mine was leaking on a friday morning before driving to dallas (3 1/2 hours) so I swapped it in about an hour and a half, then drove on over. What I'm trying to say is that it's incredibly simple. Now that I have done it once I could proably do it again in about 30 minutes not counting warming the car back up to purge the air from the system.
-Brad
98 Firebird - gone from mod mode to keep it running and useable mode.
2000 V-Star Custom 1100
If all else fails use a bigger hammer!
:rock:
Originally posted by Need4Camaro: Crap, ran into a problem... Apparently someone snapped a bolt head meaning it's stuck on there... Is it going to have to be machined out?
Drill it out and re-tap it with a Tap & Dye Kit. Not hard to do, and it's even easier since the bolt is right up front.
Snapping a bolt doesn't necessarily mean that it is stuck. Sometimes the tension from overtorquing will cause the head of the bolt to snap off and relieves all tension on the rest of the bolt. You may get lucky with an EZ Extractor tool, which looks like a spiraled drill bit. Basically all you do is drill a hole in the center of the bolt, insert the tool and twist the tool as if you were unscrewing it. The spirals are designed to grab the bolt as it is being untightened which usually works for 95% of broken bolts. However if it does give you some resistance the method mentioned in hockeyman's post will work too. The reason I try not to use tap and die is because with a hand held drill, it's tough to get a centered and straight hole through the bolt to tap into. Drill presses are generally better for that kind of thing. Good luck!
Hey everyone! I've been trying to remove my transmission for two days now! I need to replace the clutch. Only thing I've got left holding the transmission...
Hello, so I changed the front bearings on the bird and the ABS inoperative light came on. I made a mistake of not removing negative battery cable. Now...
I usually have to double, triple my headlight switch for them to come up on my 97 Firebird. I cleaned all connections. Could it be the headlight switch...
3 weeks ago
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