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My car has been doing this for while now but it started getting pretty bad. It got to the point where it misfires at the startup because of the bad O2 sensor readings.
I'm guessing the head gaskets are slowly going out but I wanted more opinion on it. What can it be?
I have the same problem with my 1994 3.4 litre with 200,000 kms. I only get the smoke after the car has sat for a couple days. I plan on doing a tune-up pretty soon, but even that isn't likely to solve much. I mean its a 12 year old car, you have to expect a few small problems like that with age.
So, anyone ever had this problem and figured out what it is? I'm guessing oil or coolant is leaking into the cylinder/intake while the car is sitting and it burns off when I start it up. And causes misfire till they are all burnt out. I'm planning on fixing this and I wanna know what could be causing it before I start tearing the engine apart.
have you done a compression test to see if your rings are still good?
Nope, I'm planning on doing that sometime soon. If its the rings, I pretty much gotta rebuild the whole motor don't I? How hard would this be? I would probably be better off buying a used shortblock wouldn't I?
it would be easier to build up a motor outside the car and then swap it in when you have everythying ready to go. but it will be more expensive since your buying a second motor. or just park your car for a while if you can and pull the motor and do it.
95 Firebird<br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/673250\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/673250</a> <br /> <a href=\"http://photobucket.com/albums/y217/andrewbrandon19/\" target=\"_blank\">http://photobucket.com/albums/y217/andrewbrandon19/</a> <br /><br />me on a good day------> <a href=\"http://communicatio.webblogg.se/images/wet_cat_113159625.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">linky</a>
it would be easier to build up a motor outside the car and then swap it in when you have everythying ready to go. but it will be more expensive since your buying a second motor. or just park your car for a while if you can and pull the motor and do it.
Well, I can't really be building up the motor outside the car since this is my only car and I have no other ride(except for my bicycle), and I don't have a garage. Also, I have no relatives in this country anymore so I can't really borrow my parent's car or anything. All the work I do have to be done in the parking lot at my frat house. And if I leave the car being worked on too long, the city will give me a ticket for abandoned vehicle on property. So, any work I have to do have to be done in less than 1 week, maybe 2 weeks at the most.
Are you sure it's coolant that you are burning at startup?
What is your coolant usage? Are you constantly having to add a little bit of coolant every time you check it?
If yes, then suspect intake gasket leak or head gasket leak.
If not, then suspect the exhaust valve seals. Worn valve seals allow the oil in the rocker boxes (just under the valve cover) to seep down the valve stem, and at startup this oil burns off and you see a little smoke out the tailpipe.
It could be combination of both considering all that the motor has seen in it's lifetime!!
DZ
Now Playing: \'99 Pewter Firebird, stock, bone stock, and nothing but stock, so help me God!<br />Comming attractions: K&N Filter, Lid Mod, Intake Bellows Smooth Pipe Mod.<br />I dream about: Forced Induction (TC or SC) or NOX (or both!)
Are you sure it's coolant that you are burning at startup?
What is your coolant usage? Are you constantly having to add a little bit of coolant every time you check it?
If yes, then suspect intake gasket leak or head gasket leak.
If not, then suspect the exhaust valve seals. Worn valve seals allow the oil in the rocker boxes (just under the valve cover) to seep down the valve stem, and at startup this oil burns off and you see a little smoke out the tailpipe.
It could be combination of both considering all that the motor has seen in it's lifetime!!
DZ
No, I'm not sure that its the coolant thats burning. Its probably not the coolant since it doesnt smell like coolant at the startup.
After reading your post, I'm starting to think that it is the exhaust valve seals. Yesterday, my car just quit starting at all. So, I'm randomly looking for things that are wrong and I was taking off the spark plugs and noticed that the plugs on the passenger side of the motor are coated with oil.
If it is the exhaust valve seals, how hard is it to replace? I'm probably going to have to take off the heads right?
No, you don't have to remove the heads to do the valve seals.
Basically what you do is pressurize the cyliner with compressed air (to hold the valve closed) then you remove the valve spring, replace the seal, and re-install the valve spring. It takes a little work, maybe a little more with our cars given it's kinda tight in there. If your unsure of what all that entails, here it is in more detail:
1. Remove the valve covers.
2. At the first cylinder:
A. Turn the engine over so that the piston is at Bottom Dead Center.
B. Remove both rocker arms and pushrods.
C. Remove the spark plug and install the air line adaptor.
D. Attach an air line to the installed adaptor and pressurize the
cylinder with air (like 90 psi or so)
E. Remove the valve spring as follows:
(1) Install the valve spring compression tool.
(2) Slowly compress the valve spring using the valve spring
compression tool.
(3) Remove the 2 spring keepers.
(4) Slowly relax the spring tension and remove the tool, spring
and spring retainer.
F. Dig out the old valve seal.
G. Lubricate the new seal with Engine oil and install.
H. Reassemble the valve spring as follows:
(1) Put the spring in position and retainer in position.
(2) Smear a small amount of grease on the inner surface of
each spring keeper.
(3) Install the spring compression tool and compress the spring.
(4) Put the spring keepers in position on the end of the valve stem.
(5) Slowly relax on the compression tool until the valve spring,
retainer and keepers are in the proper position.
(6) Remove the spring compression tool.
I. Repeat steps E. thru H. for second valve.
J. Re-install the pushrods and rocker arms.
3. Repeat step 2 for each cylinder.
4. Re- install the valve covers (use new gasket/seal).
This is a general description. For specific details and Torque numbers get your hands on a Service Manual.
DZ
Now Playing: \'99 Pewter Firebird, stock, bone stock, and nothing but stock, so help me God!<br />Comming attractions: K&N Filter, Lid Mod, Intake Bellows Smooth Pipe Mod.<br />I dream about: Forced Induction (TC or SC) or NOX (or both!)
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