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  • 1 grand to spend

    well my dad has informed me that im allowed to do whatever i want to my car, that leaves me with about a grand to spend- im thinkin headers/hiflow cat/y pipe and a cam. ok im thinkin rk sport (just for price vs cia)+3 inch stuff all the way out, but im askin more about the cam- what would you all say 212/212? i do plan later on going to the bottle but that would be next year, im going to do heads first. would headers cam get me 20/30 hp? what kinda 1/4 times could i expect? would that be the best way to spend my grand???
    98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited<br /><br /><br />MODS:<br />180* t-stat, K&N FIPK, mopar ECU,<br />mike leach long tube headers+3\" y-pipe, 3\" all the way out flowmaster 50 series, mopar magnum 2bbl m1 intake manifold, APS 52mm throttle body, powerslots, 2 JL 10w3\'s

  • #2
    Headers and cam would be wise to install at the same time. You may not have enough for the cost of installation unless you do them both yourself, or at least the headers. Make sure to get bigger valve springs for the extra lift with the 212/212 cam. What LSA are you going to run? Is this a daily driver? Do you want a lopey idle? Plan on any nitrous or forced induction, or is it a strictly NA motor?

    You'll also need a MAFT+ to tune the cam with.
    Comp 916s will be fine for your valve springs.

    Scott

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    • #3
      wow, with 1 grand you won't be able to do like any of those. headers are about $500, a good cam is easily $500, installation of a cam is very expensive. a nice cat-back is also easily $500. but i would do the exhaust and then head for nitrous--do the cam later on--OR do just the cam now and then later the exhaust and nitrous. but you don't have the money for all of those :D
      2000 NBM M6 Camaro Z28<br />323/335

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      • #4
        get more boltons, get an aluminum drive shaft, hurst shifter with lous short stick, 160 Thermo , manual fan switch, then start goin internal just a suggestion ~shrug~ thats the stuff they told me to do,i see 25 just in the cam according to what ive read around here, as for heads i just know there gonna be better top end and more flowing, ive never seen any hp quotes from any thing, have fun moddin ure can man l8rz
        91 Eagle Talon Awd Turbo 5 speed FOR SALE 6000$<br />Looking for a Fiero GT<br /><a href=\"http://www.swdsm.net\" target=\"_blank\">www.swdsm.net</a>

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        • #5
          well i have a friend to do the cam install for me/ill do the headers with him, so install isnt bad. it would be a few more weeks so im lookin at havin more like 1300 to spend. i might wait for the pacesetters, but i really dont want to wait till january or whoever knows when theyll be in. i would most likely buy the super six package piece by piece. and when thats done, id go bottle, mabye bottle beofre heads.
          this is a daily driver, so thats why i would go with a moderate cam, either something 212 or below. do i have to have a maft? can i run stock valvetrain components with that cam?
          only4u- ive already got a catback (more like 650 bucks)
          98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited<br /><br /><br />MODS:<br />180* t-stat, K&N FIPK, mopar ECU,<br />mike leach long tube headers+3\" y-pipe, 3\" all the way out flowmaster 50 series, mopar magnum 2bbl m1 intake manifold, APS 52mm throttle body, powerslots, 2 JL 10w3\'s

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          • #6
            look at the cam on www.zzperformance.com they say you don't need maft+ and you can use stock valvetrain.
            2000 NBM M6 Camaro Z28<br />323/335

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            • #7
              You don't need all that little crap, you can do that later on because its alot cheaper. A cam is NOT $500, i have no clue wtf that guy is talking about. $300 custom from Comp. If you have an auto, get a torque converter also. But that will suck up about 800-900 including install and a trans cooler. Do the cam and headers first and then the 'verter to match the powerband you have with the cam. You don't HAVE to have the MAFT+, but it will make alot more power once tuned correctly.

              Trust me, I know what i'm talking about. With that big of a lift you will need the valvesprings as well. It is always a good idea to upgrade valvesprings with a higher lift cam. The stock ones are good enough for up to .500 lift, and that is pushing it. I personally wouldn't run stock springs with anything above .450 lift.

              You can pick up a used Aluminum driveshaft for around 150 on www.ls1tech.com or www.camaroz28.com classifieds. Just make sure it is balanced and in good condition.

              $500 cam....... [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img]

              Installation of a cam is not VERY expensive either, like $300 is about average. But you don't have to worry since you have friends doing it. Just make sure to take your time and do it all correctly. [img]smile.gif[/img]

              Scott

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              • #8
                I also just saw you haven't done gears and limited slip yet. That should be your first priority, and that tells me you have an auto, since not many would go just from 3.23s in a manual to 3.42s. So this makes me think: If you have an auto, get the gears and the converter. You will notice the difference so much. It is the best mod you can do for an automatic car. I'm talkin around .7 reduction and seriuos driving fun. Maybe even a full second if you get a monster converter and the gears at the same time, provided you have traction.
                3.42s/LSD= up to .4 off
                Converter= up to .7 off (depending on stall, STR, efficiency)
                Those #s are provided that you get traction. I can't hook up at all with my stall.

                Scott

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                • #9
                  maybe you should look at his sig a little closer scott--it clearly says 3.42s and lsd and i'm pretty sure that there are some cams that cost $500--who said that there is only one cam--the $300 comp cam?

                  EDIT: btw, you need to grow up scott. for some reason you have something against me because of a faulty business situation between me and a friend of yours that you were not a part of. you should stop trying to put me down in every way you can think of and get a new attitude. i don't appreciate that.

                  [ September 02, 2002: Message edited by: Only4U ]</p>
                  2000 NBM M6 Camaro Z28<br />323/335

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                  • #10
                    i havent updated my sig. i bought 3.42's and a limited slip that are going in on the 13th
                    98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited<br /><br /><br />MODS:<br />180* t-stat, K&N FIPK, mopar ECU,<br />mike leach long tube headers+3\" y-pipe, 3\" all the way out flowmaster 50 series, mopar magnum 2bbl m1 intake manifold, APS 52mm throttle body, powerslots, 2 JL 10w3\'s

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      TriFlo, then it just depends if you want to break into the motor yet. Headers will let it breathe with the cam, or you can do the converter. Both will give you significant gains.

                      Only4U, this is an advanced tech post. I have no idea what you are talking about, besides that i think it's funny that a cam would cost $500 alone. State your beef with me, better yet take it to email.

                      Comp Cam=$300
                      SSM Cam=$340
                      There are others but i can't remember offhand right now.

                      Scott

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                      • #12
                        i want to go ahead and break in the motor, i think the converter will help more with headers and cam, plus i dont know if i can afford the installation of the TC yet. also the cam and headers will make it sound pretty mean for a 6. thanks for all your help
                        98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited<br /><br /><br />MODS:<br />180* t-stat, K&N FIPK, mopar ECU,<br />mike leach long tube headers+3\" y-pipe, 3\" all the way out flowmaster 50 series, mopar magnum 2bbl m1 intake manifold, APS 52mm throttle body, powerslots, 2 JL 10w3\'s

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Good thinking. Wait to do the converter after the cam so you can get a dyno of the cam, then pick your converter based off of the dyno sheet and the RPMs where the powerband is. Please, PLEASE dyno before and after the cam install.

                          Yes, the cam will make it sound alot better. I am very eager to order mine also.

                          Scott

                          Edit: Just FYI, the install cost of the 'verter is not that much. Around 150 should be about right.

                          [ September 02, 2002: Message edited by: Scott Black ]</p>

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                          • #14
                            Or, you could save yourself about $135 on the converter install and buy a Haynes book and try it yourself. I installed my TC about 10 months back, the only pain int the *** is getting the bellhousing bolts off off the tranmission. Overall, it was pretty easy, just my opinion!
                            1999 Black Trans Am A4<br /> <br />-Flowmaster with Flowtech Cutout <br />-SLP Lid <br />-SLP MAF <br />-Ported Heads, hardened pushrods<br />-Diable Sport Programming<br />-18\' ZO6 Polished rims

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