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  • hard to start car

    I have gotten a p0102 and it was running real crappy, but was starting just fine. I replaced the MAF and it was almost perfect again. A few weeks from when I replaced it, I am now getting the p0102 code and it seems it is very hard to start the car. It runs fine once it is started, but you really have to sit there and grind the starter to get it to fire up. Any suggestions?
    Red 1998 Camaro<br />Mods so far=<br />K&N

  • #2
    Re: Help!!!

    if its grinding, its time for a new starter
    <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261</a> Green 1997, 105k, all stock except for Z28 front springs, Air shocks in the rear, home made coolant recovery tank, home made battery hold down.

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    • #3
      Re: Help!!!

      http://forum.camarov6.com/showthread.php?t=953 2nd post. ill fix the title this time, but please in the future try to make a title that may help someone else. down the road. :)

      anywaaays...

      sounds like the starter to me also.

      current car- 95 Trans am- bolt ons, parked and collecting dust. why? because **** it

      Follow me!
      http://www.twitch.tv/optimusprymrib
      Or this

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      • #4
        Re: Help!!!

        I noticed this... When I put the car on Acc. the battery is barely in the red (the needle is pointing to the left(I don't know what this means)). When I try to start the car, the needle goes waay into the red. I let it sit for awhile and turn it off. Then I put the car in Acc. again and the car is a tiny bit out of the red and starts up much easier. Do you think this might be the battery?
        Red 1998 Camaro<br />Mods so far=<br />K&N

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        • #5
          Re: Help!!!

          Don't trust the car's voltage gauge. If you suspect the battery, charge the battery up and go get a load test done on it. If you don't want to, or can't then get a Volt/Ohn meter, open the hood and do this:

          Make sure all accessories are OFF (radio, heater/AC fan, lights, etc...)

          With the engine not running (Ignition key in any position except START) measure the battery voltage.
          - Voltage should be above 12 VDC (anywhere from 12.5 to 13.5)
          - If voltage is at or below 12 VDC, your battery is not charged properly. (At this point it does not mean that the battery is the problem, just that there is not the proper charge state.

          Start the engine. Let engine run for a minute or so. Measure the voltage.
          - If the voltage is more than the battery voltage that you measured when the engine was stopped but less than 14.5 volts, your alternator is failing. Rebuild it or replace it.

          - If the voltage is the same or less then the battery voltage that you measured when the engine was stopped, your alternator is dead. Rebuild or replace it.

          - If the voltage is 14.5 VDC or higher, alternator is working properly. Run car around for 1/2 hour or so. Then shut down the engine and immediately measure the battery voltage.
          If the battery voltage is 12VDC or less the battery is failing. At this point is would be good to take the battery in and get a load check done on it. This will confirm that the battery requires replacement.
          If the battery voltage is higher than 12VDC, let it sit for a while (overnight would be good) then measure the voltage (without engine running). If the voltage is the same then things should be all ok in the charging circuit. If the voltage is lower then you have something drawing off the battery when all is off. NOTE: It is normal for a small millampre draw off the battery when the car is off. This is due to things like stereo memory, security systems, BCM monitoring functions, etc...
          Now Playing: \'99 Pewter Firebird, stock, bone stock, and nothing but stock, so help me God!<br />Comming attractions: K&N Filter, Lid Mod, Intake Bellows Smooth Pipe Mod.<br />I dream about: Forced Induction (TC or SC) or NOX (or both!)

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