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  • engine stalling

    I have a 94 Firebird 3.4L and a couple of days ago my car just started to stall and die when I try to start from a stop. When I would hit the gas the car kinda sputter and died. It fells like the cars getting flooded but when I put my car in neutral rev it to about 1000rpm and then drop it in to drive the car drives fine. I think it might be my EGR value or my O2 sensor but I dont know for sure. I just wanted to know what you guys might think it is. Thanks for your help.

  • #2
    Re: engine stalling

    throwing any codes?

    can you rev it up to any rpm still?

    any unusual sounds?


    give us as much info as you possibly can, it may help us help you :)

    current car- 95 Trans am- bolt ons, parked and collecting dust. why? because **** it

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    • #3
      Re: engine stalling

      Originally posted by vanbibber
      give us as much info as you possibly can, it may help us help you :)
      yep the more the better. im just going to add to the bibbster's list:

      does it idle fine?
      start up fine?
      cruise at a low RPM fine? what about a higher RPM?
      1998 bright red camaro ,M5 ,Y87 ,stock<br /><br />Originally posted by Rune:<br />If it smells like a turd and looks like a turd, chances are its probably not a candy bar.

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      • #4
        Re: engine stalling

        The car doesnt die when it first starts up I was able to drive it for like 5mins before it stated dying. I tried getting a code reader and it doesnt work with my car so I dont have any codes. The car idles rough and theres a clicking noise coming from the rear passenger side of the engine. It also pops a couple of times just before it dies. I can drive the car at low rpms sometimes but it just died when i was going like 10mph the last time i drove it.

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        • #5
          Re: engine stalling

          how many miles? stock cat? stock fuel filter? does it get worse if you try to get on the gas a little more than normal?
          1998 bright red camaro ,M5 ,Y87 ,stock<br /><br />Originally posted by Rune:<br />If it smells like a turd and looks like a turd, chances are its probably not a candy bar.

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          • #6
            Re: engine stalling

            The car has 166k miles it has the stock cat and fuel filter i think. If i hit the gas more from a stop it still pops a couple times and dies. After the car starts moving i can floor it and it works fine.

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            • #7
              Re: engine stalling

              ur cat and fuel filter could very well be clogged...try changing the fuel filter...car runs wayy better and gets better gas mileage..real easy swap in the rear left side of ur car... as for ur cat, just have it gutted or put a piece of hollow pipe in its place. i hate cats

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              • #8
                Re: engine stalling

                Dont just go and gut or remove your cat if you have to pass inspection. If you can get it passed by someone, or your state doesnt have emissions inspection then go for it.

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                • #9
                  Re: engine stalling

                  if it is your cat, it might smell like rotten eggs, rattle, or glow red hot after you drive it. as for your fuel filter, you might as well change it, its on the driver's side like niko said, its a 5 minutes swap. i dont think its your cat, and it doesnt really sound like its for fuel filter. stock plugs? i wouldnt think they'd do this, but you never know. maybe bibby will have some fresh idea's. ill keep thinking.
                  1998 bright red camaro ,M5 ,Y87 ,stock<br /><br />Originally posted by Rune:<br />If it smells like a turd and looks like a turd, chances are its probably not a candy bar.

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                  • #10
                    Re: engine stalling

                    Problem starts 5 minutes after starting? Sounds like it's a problem when the computer is going into closed loop operation. This also matches with what you said about flooring it (hard acceleration forces the computer into "performance mode and uses some predefined air/fuel mixtures). If it was me, i'd start looking at some of the sensors (O2, EGR...) and running some of the tests that the manuals reccomend. Replacing parts that should have been replaced miles or years ago always a good idea anyways though. Personally I don't think you should get rid of your cat completely (though removing it for diagnosis would be fine). I love cats.



                    They're delicious.

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                    • #11
                      Re: engine stalling

                      my car actually hesitated and kicked when i first got it
                      no hard acceleration for me...new plugs wires coils belts and pulleys made it run like a dream

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                      • #12
                        Re: engine stalling

                        ok i replaced the fuel filter and the idle smoothed out but it still has the problem.
                        I've also noticed that when my car starts it idles smooth for like 5 seconds then drops a little bit and then my engine starts rattling and the service engine soon light comes on. The rattling noise sounds like its coming from ether the egr value or inside the valve covers but its hard to tell exactly where.

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                        • #13
                          Re: engine stalling

                          I was thinking about changing the fuel filter but how do you keep from getting fuel everywhere

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                          • #14
                            Re: engine stalling

                            Originally posted by 97burnout
                            I was thinking about changing the fuel filter but how do you keep from getting fuel everywhere
                            All you need to do is relieve the pressure in the fuel system. This is how my 93-98 Chilton manual says to do it.

                            1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
                            2. Loosen the fuel filler cap to relieve pressure
                            3. Connect fuel pressure gauge J-34730-1, or equivalent, to the fuel pussure test valve. Warp a shop towel around the fitting while connecting the gauge to prevert spillage.
                            4. Place the end of the bleed hose into a suitable container and open the valve to relieve the fuel system pressure.
                            5. Drain any remaining fuel into an approved container.

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