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  • Alt Or Battery?

    Car is a 94 3.4, well the problem is when ever i drive it the volt gauge shows the needle to be in pretty close to the red.

    The alt is less than a yr old, the battery looks pretty new also.

    Its been like this for about 6 months now, is this the sign of a dying alt or a dying battery?

    If it rev up the engine the needle will go up just a little bit, not a lot though.

  • #2
    Rebuilt Alternator right?

    Thats probably it.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by V8 Killer:
      Rebuilt Alternator right?

      Thats probably it.
      yes

      Comment


      • #4
        I just had a rebuilt one recently go like 2 weeks ago.It was a year old also, put it in last summer.

        Did the same exact thing your is doing.Staying very very low but cranking the motor. I thought It was because I left the interior light on overnight and drove around to raise the voltage. Never went up,had it tested and it was the alternator again...

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        • #5
          Take your car to autozone and have them test the battery and the alternator. They will be able to tell which one is the culprit. If the battery is more than 3 yrs old go ahead and replace it, cheap insureance so that you don't get stuck on the side of the road.
          255/50R16 Tires, Pioneer Deck, Pioneer 4 Way speakers, PPI Amps, JL subs, Spec Stage 3 Clutch, Optima Yellow Top

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          • #6
            or, to test the alternator yourself.
            turn on car, while car is on dissconnect battery, if it dies or stutters real bad, then its your alternator
            I will take on all comers...or come on all takers!!! Whichever you prefer.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by FlamespikeMST1:
              or, to test the alternator yourself.
              turn on car, while car is on dissconnect battery, if it dies or stutters real bad, then its your alternator
              And then promptly replace your electronics because they've been destroyed. Don't ever disconnect the battery when the car is running. That's just asking for trouble. ;)
              Matt
              1998 Mystic Teal Camaro M5
              Whisper Lid, Pacesetter Headers, Catco Cat, Dynomax Super Turbo, B&M Shifter, BMR STB, LSD, P&P Intakes, GT2 Cam, Comp OE Lifters, 1.7 Roller Rockers, Pushrods, SSM Heads, DHP PowrTuner.

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              • #8
                Right, that's an old mechanic's trick to dupe you into buying an alternator. The car always dies because the electrical circuit has just been opened.
                2002 Silver Firebird A4<br />T-Tops, Leather, Y87, W68, Chrome Wheels<br />Bone Stock

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Rob Bell:
                  Right, that's an old mechanic's trick to dupe you into buying an alternator. The car always dies because the electrical circuit has just been opened.
                  DING DING DING DING....WE HAVE A WINNER!!!! [img]tongue.gif[/img]
                  2000 3.8 A4 Pewter Camaro

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                  • #10
                    LOL! x2 ~ Have it tested.
                    Black \'96 RS Camaro, 3.8 V6 Series II, M5, Stock 200 HP, 204K miles! Stock \'91 Firebird 3.1 V6 automatic w/ overdrive. 266,400 miles on it. \'83 Pontiac Trans Am,305 LG4, Cowl Induction,Borg Warner 5 Speed,T-Tops,Gale Banks Exhaust System:$800 obo

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                    • #11
                      You know, you can test the voltage yourself with a voltmeter. While the car is running probe the battery. You should read around 14.5 V.

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