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  • seriouse question...

    i put in my talor wires and NGK plugs. the car is REALLY misfireing and hesitating. i went over every connection and every plug, everything seems to be OK. all the plugs seem to be about the same after being slightly used (all have a light dark soot coat on them), so i can't tell which plug/wire is the problem from that.

    my question is, which side are the wires supposed to connect to the coils with? the one side on the wires looks like a typical black wire boot, the other side is blue like the wires and is squard off along the edges. I connected the squared off side to the coils and the regular boot side to the plugs. is this correct? could this even be the cause?

    any ideas?
    Silver \'98 Camaro M5<br />Current MODs:<br />SLP strut tower brace; SLP 1LE swaybars front/back; Powerslot rotors; Hawk pads; Eibach springs; Bilstein SLP shock kit; SLP trans mount; Zexel limited-slip differential; LS1 drive shaft.<br />Possible future MODs:<br />BMR Lower Control Arms; BMR Pandhard Rod.

  • #2
    I didn't know there was a difference on how you mounted the wire(s).
    Did you custom make the wire connections yourself?
    I custom made one side of my accell's, and one of them had a loose connection. Luckily, I noticed it before installing them.

    -Marc
    sigpic

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    • #3
      no these were custom fit talor wires from thunder. everything was already pre cut/fitted out of the box. its just that on end on each wire has a weird looking boot.



      see how there are black boots and red boots? i'm talking about the red ones (only mine are blue).
      Silver \'98 Camaro M5<br />Current MODs:<br />SLP strut tower brace; SLP 1LE swaybars front/back; Powerslot rotors; Hawk pads; Eibach springs; Bilstein SLP shock kit; SLP trans mount; Zexel limited-slip differential; LS1 drive shaft.<br />Possible future MODs:<br />BMR Lower Control Arms; BMR Pandhard Rod.

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      • #4
        The ends with the Squared spot on the boots go to your coils.

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        • #5
          Check the resistance of your spark plug wires
          with a OHM meter to make sure you don't have
          a defective wire.

          Comment


          • #6
            i don't know if i just got a ****ty set of Taylors from thunder or what, but 2 of the 6 wires i got measured ~5.xx on my ohm meter's 20kohm scale where the rest measured 1/10 of that or ~.5xx and the older stock wires measured &gt;~2.xx

            these would be great wires since they have 1/4 the resistnace of the stock ones... IF ALMOST HALF OF THEM WEREN'T DEFECTIVE!!!!

            i'm really pissed, because i trusted the wires without checking before i installed them since they got such high praise from everyone. now i'm going to be going over the whole rechecking process for the 3rd time. ARG!!!

            so pissed! :mad:
            Silver \'98 Camaro M5<br />Current MODs:<br />SLP strut tower brace; SLP 1LE swaybars front/back; Powerslot rotors; Hawk pads; Eibach springs; Bilstein SLP shock kit; SLP trans mount; Zexel limited-slip differential; LS1 drive shaft.<br />Possible future MODs:<br />BMR Lower Control Arms; BMR Pandhard Rod.

            Comment


            • #7
              the black end goes on the coil.. the end matching the color of the wire goes on the plug...

              I'd try that first.. also you need to get a tube of dielectric grease and put in each boot before putting it on the plug

              and if you ran the wires improperly and got a couple of them touching something hot then you might have burned a spot through the insulation and that will causes arching and misfires..
              -Brad
              98 Firebird - gone from mod mode to keep it running and useable mode.
              2000 V-Star Custom 1100
              If all else fails use a bigger hammer!
              :rock:

              Comment


              • #8
                <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by black98V6:
                the black end goes on the coil.. the end matching the color of the wire goes on the plug...

                I'd try that first.. also you need to get a tube of dielectric grease and put in each boot before putting it on the plug

                and if you ran the wires improperly and got a couple of them touching something hot then you might have burned a spot through the insulation and that will causes arching and misfires..<hr></blockquote>

                i took off all the wires and ohm metered them. there were 2 wires which measured at 5 and 8 kilo-ohms where the rest measured at less than 1 kilo-ohm. much less. i later found out that the wires themselves were fine, but the ends crimped onto the side with the squarish boots weren't making good contact and adding most of the resistance. i noticed when i took the boots off, they were really snug and tight. i presume that those 2 wires were poorly crimped and the contacts got messed up when the boots were put on.

                i think the squarish looking ends go on the coils myself, but even if you're right, i don't see how it would make any difference. the ends on either side are identical and both 'feel' the same when the snap onto the plug.

                thanks for the info tho.
                Silver \'98 Camaro M5<br />Current MODs:<br />SLP strut tower brace; SLP 1LE swaybars front/back; Powerslot rotors; Hawk pads; Eibach springs; Bilstein SLP shock kit; SLP trans mount; Zexel limited-slip differential; LS1 drive shaft.<br />Possible future MODs:<br />BMR Lower Control Arms; BMR Pandhard Rod.

                Comment


                • #9
                  oh, btw, anyone know howto read SES codes on a '98? there's got to be a way to do it without a diagnostic tool, right?

                  i got the SES light about 6 times now because of misfires, i'm hoping it can tell me which cylinders are the problem.
                  Silver \'98 Camaro M5<br />Current MODs:<br />SLP strut tower brace; SLP 1LE swaybars front/back; Powerslot rotors; Hawk pads; Eibach springs; Bilstein SLP shock kit; SLP trans mount; Zexel limited-slip differential; LS1 drive shaft.<br />Possible future MODs:<br />BMR Lower Control Arms; BMR Pandhard Rod.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by black98V6:
                    the black end goes on the coil.. the end matching the color of the wire goes on the plug...

                    I'd try that first.. also you need to get a tube of dielectric grease and put in each boot before putting it on the plug

                    and if you ran the wires improperly and got a couple of them touching something hot then you might have burned a spot through the insulation and that will causes arching and misfires..<hr></blockquote>
                    crap, you're right. i looked at the black boot more closely and it says "coil/dist" on it.

                    i'm going to have to redo all the wires for the 50th time now. [img]graemlins/crybaby.gif[/img]

                    hopefuly that will fix the problem.
                    Silver \'98 Camaro M5<br />Current MODs:<br />SLP strut tower brace; SLP 1LE swaybars front/back; Powerslot rotors; Hawk pads; Eibach springs; Bilstein SLP shock kit; SLP trans mount; Zexel limited-slip differential; LS1 drive shaft.<br />Possible future MODs:<br />BMR Lower Control Arms; BMR Pandhard Rod.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      you can get your codes read at autozone, with ODB2 there is no other way to read the codes..

                      they read them for free.. I just have them let me borrow the scanner and do it in the parking lot.. though I would recommend redoing the wires.. making sure they are all tight then take it to autozone and clear the codes.. (their scanner will do that for you) then drive it around and see if you get the misfire again.. then check the code again and see what cylinder is misfiring..

                      a misfire condition can also be caused by a bad coil.. not too long after I got my car I had to replace plugs and wires due to the defective factory wires.. almost a year later my misfire suddenly reappeared.. and when I suddenly I mean I was driving.. came to a stop.. started to go again and suddenly I had a light misfires and really bad idle.. initially I thought I had burned a wire but it turned out to be a bad coil.. just be careful when you go to run your wires and make sure they won't touch the manifolds or block and wind up getting a hole burned in the insulation...
                      -Brad
                      98 Firebird - gone from mod mode to keep it running and useable mode.
                      2000 V-Star Custom 1100
                      If all else fails use a bigger hammer!
                      :rock:

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Did you take them off and put them back on one at a time? If not I would find out the firing order and start there.
                        I have made a lot of money in my life, most of which I spent on cars and women.<p>The rest I have blown.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Taylor wires are generally crap. Many many of the Impala SS crowd has gotten bad wires from Taylor right out of the box. What I do, is buy good aftermarket wires, such as Accel or Holley cut to fit and roll my own.
                          Kelly \'GhoSSt\' Rosato<br />1996 Impala SS, 385ci LT4, 52mm TB, Quad1 headers, !Cats, !EGR, !AIR, Hooker Catback, SLP TC, UK3, UL0, GM CD changer, Onstar®, Homelink® Remote, lots of Fleetwood, Denali & 9C1 Stuff.<br />1998 Z28 Convertable (stock at the moment)<br />1993 Caprice 9C1, 406ci MPFI, overhead console, 8-way Riviera seats, DVD, CD Changer, etc..<br />1977 Volvo w/ 3.8l V6 from a 1998 Firebird

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                          • #14
                            <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Slow-N-ugly:
                            Did you take them off and put them back on one at a time? If not I would find out the firing order and start there.<hr></blockquote>

                            i put the wires on again after testing them all with the black boots on the coils and silicone grease in the boots. its not stuttering or hesitating which is a plus, but its clear that one or two cylinders aren't combusting. i tried disconnecting the wires one by one to see if i can tell a difference, but its really hard to tell. i'm going to drop by autozone tomorrow and see if i can read the codes.

                            this is unbelievable. i've spent an entire week chasing this problem to no avail.

                            thanks for all the info guys.
                            Silver \'98 Camaro M5<br />Current MODs:<br />SLP strut tower brace; SLP 1LE swaybars front/back; Powerslot rotors; Hawk pads; Eibach springs; Bilstein SLP shock kit; SLP trans mount; Zexel limited-slip differential; LS1 drive shaft.<br />Possible future MODs:<br />BMR Lower Control Arms; BMR Pandhard Rod.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Morbid... I am sorry that i don't have any advice for you. I am having similar problems myself. Please post the solution to your problem when you get it sorted out. Good luck.

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