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It's been on and off lately, and i'm assuming it's the sensors that are dirty, since it's off and on, and i've heard they get messed up sometimes, I just don't know exactly where they are.
I also heard from vanbibber that if the third brake light is messed up, the ABS INOP light might come on...i just replaced my third tail light with LEDs..so is this a possibility too? ..should i wire in some kind of resistors? ..what size?
It isn't that hard to clean the sensor for your ABS. But, just to see.......put your old 3rd tail light back in and drive around and see if it still comes on. If it does, then go home and change it back to the LED's and then clean your sensor.
Or, you can just start out by cleaing the sensor, that is what I would do.
I'm thinking it is the third brake light. It would be a coincidence that it just started happening right when i do a LED conversion. I drove to school today without ever using the brakes just to see(down-shifting and light e-brake), and the light never once came on. Drove the car later with the brakes, and the light was on again.
What kind of resistor do i use to make it think it's not burnt out?
lol... what i tell ya man... the ABS INOP light comes on when the computer detects an "open brake circuit"... in other words.... the LEDs you bought and installed... superbrightleds sell the resistors that'll make it go away... otherwise it doesn't hurt anything... brakes will still work fine... you just won't have cruise anymore and that light will come on and off periodically with the computers T cycles...
lol... what i tell ya man... the ABS INOP light comes on when the computer detects an "open brake circuit"... in other words.... the LEDs you bought and installed... superbrightleds sell the resistors that'll make it go away... otherwise it doesn't hurt anything... brakes will still work fine... you just won't have cruise anymore and that light will come on and off periodically with the computers T cycles...
If you are having this problem and it isn't from having the senor dirty then you need to get the resistor right away.
CoasterKev06 thinks that the brakes will still work just fine, but obviously he has never tapped on his brakes rather hard whenever the ABS INOP light is on. They will lock up on you, and it can be rather scary when not being prepared for it. If the INOP light is ever on, you should have it fixed immediately, because what's the point of having ABS if your brakes are going to be locking up on you here and there.
If you are having this problem and it isn't from having the senor dirty then you need to get the resistor right away.
CoasterKev06 thinks that the brakes will still work just fine, but obviously he has never tapped on his brakes rather hard whenever the ABS INOP light is on. They will lock up on you, and it can be rather scary when not being prepared for it. If the INOP light is ever on, you should have it fixed immediately, because what's the point of having ABS if your brakes are going to be locking up on you here and there.
Hey now... don't start throwing around conclusions you don't know anything about... the first thing I did when I saw my "ABS INOP" light was slam on my brakes... and they automatically pumped just like ABS always does... it's just our cars don't have a "Bulb Out" light so GM figured the best thing to get peoples attention is to flash the "ABS INOP" light... cause having no brakes is kinda scary to what i figure would be a majority of the general public :naughty: ... he has just replaced his stock bulbs with LEDs but without placing the appropriate resistors in the circuit to give the necessary load for the computer to think it has working bulbs... the only code it throws is the "Open Brake Circuit"... which is most likely his third brake lights... nothing whatsoever to do with the actual function of his brakes or ABS... It only disengages the cruise control... I've been there and done that...
It seems like additional resistance would exacerbate the problem. Probably what's happening is the LEDs use so little current that the computer thinks it's an open circuit. Whereas if you had a real bulb in there, it takes a certain amperage to light the bulb, which the computer is programmed to sense. If the resistor does not work, you may have to rig something up to allow current more current to flow. Like some resistors in parallel with the LEDs, so you have more current flowing, but not enough to short the power away from the LEDs.
It seems like additional resistance would exacerbate the problem. Probably what's happening is the LEDs use so little current that the computer thinks it's an open circuit. Whereas if you had a real bulb in there, it takes a certain amperage to light the bulb, which the computer is programmed to sense. If the resistor does not work, you may have to rig something up to allow current more current to flow. Like some resistors in parallel with the LEDs, so you have more current flowing, but not enough to short the power away from the LEDs.
You're absolutely right... except about the part where resistance makes it worse ... the resistance is what makes it think it has a bulb there... because incandescent bulbs are pretty much a resistor in a glass vacuum... whereas a LED is a superconductor and pulls very little current... the resistors on superbrightleds.com that are made for fixing turn signals should do the trick for the large socket lights... the smaller lights such as the marker and third brake lights will use the smaller resistors found on the site... since their site is kinda confusing here's a link to all of their products and their prices... http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...gi?product=CAR ... use the search box at the top to narrow the field... if you put in "resistor" you will see exactly what I'm talking about...
but 3.95 is a bit much for a 5 cent resistor with a little heatsink on it. I'm going to go ahead and get a resistor that will do the same, thanks to the site i know what ones to get though now :) 25ohm, 25watt for the little ones.
Hey now... don't start throwing around conclusions you don't know anything about... the first thing I did when I saw my "ABS INOP" light was slam on my brakes... and they automatically pumped just like ABS always does... it's just our cars don't have a "Bulb Out" light so GM figured the best thing to get peoples attention is to flash the "ABS INOP" light... cause having no brakes is kinda scary to what i figure would be a majority of the general public :naughty: ... he has just replaced his stock bulbs with LEDs but without placing the appropriate resistors in the circuit to give the necessary load for the computer to think it has working bulbs... the only code it throws is the "Open Brake Circuit"... which is most likely his third brake lights... nothing whatsoever to do with the actual function of his brakes or ABS... It only disengages the cruise control... I've been there and done that...
I'm not throwing conclusions......I think you were looking for the word, accusation. And yes, it could be the LED which has set it off, which we all are in agreement that it is most likely the cause of the problem.
But, wait until your ABS goes out and the INOP light comes on.....slam on your brakes then and see if they still work like normal. Don't call me a liar because you think you know what you are talking about when you have no clue. It's happened to me, it's happened to others. Sometimes when that light comes on, everything isn't always hunky dorey.
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