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Well like december 23 i put my car in my garage for storage and its been a mild winter so one nice day i went to take it out to drive to work and it wont start.It was running fine when i went to store it and the only thing i did when it was is storage was paint my calapers and change the pad. Now i got no power no accesories come o like radio,lights,ect. and it doesnt start. put the bat on the charger and it went to fully charged. someone help me whats WRONG???????
kyle
Does the starter even try to turn the engine over, or do you get nothing? If your battery is fully charged, then it's probably either your starter, or a fuse. [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]
Teal 94 Camaro 3.4 Liter<br />Transgo stage 3 shiftkit, Shift module, corvette servo, SLP cold air induction,3.42 ring and pinion, Heavy Duty Posi LSD, Flowmaster exhaust, NX, blackouts
i had a problem like this once. i had this total power failure like you're having. it was just the battery connection... one of the connectors was too loose. maybe all you have to do is tighten it really well... assuming you haven't already.
i checked all the fuses and they are all fine, didnt try to tighten the conections yet ill try that tonight. But if its the starter why would all my power be gone , wouldnt i be able to at least listen to the radio with a bad starter?
just checked the connections they are as tight as can be..... i hope i checked all the fuses, theres only the ones under the hood and the ones on the side of the counsel right? which fuse would it be. I NEED HELP!! thanks,
kyle
:mad: :mad:
Sometimes battery cables can have the best connection, but a car won't get power. Above, I thought that your radio worked, but your starter didn't. Anyway, there is a separate ignition wire. I toasted mine in half and my stereo didn't even work either. As a matter of fact, when I would hit certain bumps, my car would just "shut off." Finally I found the small (about 8guage) ignition wire under the hood. It was corroded in half. All of the insulation was melted off. I spliced in a new wire where it was melted, and it seems to work great. It goes to the positive terminal I believe. It should be kinda obvious. Oh yeah, it was orange.
Also, try disconnecting your battery, mixing baking soda and water, and dump it over your battery, especially the terminals. It will remove all of the corrosion that stops connections. Then reconnect and try your car.
[img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]
Teal 94 Camaro 3.4 Liter<br />Transgo stage 3 shiftkit, Shift module, corvette servo, SLP cold air induction,3.42 ring and pinion, Heavy Duty Posi LSD, Flowmaster exhaust, NX, blackouts
well cleaned off the cables and took them off and put them back on TIGHT! still no power also checked that wire by the battery. it kind of comes off the cable in a Y or so thats fine. still need help thanks
kyle
2001 SOM Camaro SS<p>Direct flo lid---Lakewood LCAs----Edelbrock Torque Arm-----Lous Short Stick---Dynomouth 3\" Exhaust---SLP Center Mount Exhaust---Poly tranny and torque arm mounts.<p>My site....http://community.webshots.com/album/49413018hRfdbP
Maybe its the ignition switch. I'm running out of ideas. Also, make sure the ground is tight.(off the battery) Without the ground, no circuits can be completed, meaning, nothing works. Just another idea. Man, this is weird. [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]
Teal 94 Camaro 3.4 Liter<br />Transgo stage 3 shiftkit, Shift module, corvette servo, SLP cold air induction,3.42 ring and pinion, Heavy Duty Posi LSD, Flowmaster exhaust, NX, blackouts
Power to your starter/ignition/accessories and everything all comes from some place. Get out the multimeter and start testing. First, make sure the battery has power itself. I'm asuming that the battery will have power, move on from there. Check continuity from the engine block to the negative terminal of the battery. I'm asuming yes there is. Check to make sure that there is power to the charging post that is where the distribution block for power that is under the hood. if there is power to the charging post, and there is ground to both the chassis of the car and the engine block, move on to the fuses that are in the distribution block. If they have some will, some won't. I would put the key to the "run" position for this because that will feed power to the fuses that are in question. The important thing to check when looking for power on fuses is touch the top of the fuse on one side, then the other. If it has power on one side of the fuse but not the other, it's obviously the fuse. Replace it and move on. If all the fuses that we're working on in the distribution block are showing power on both sides, then move on to the next. Check the wires that feed power in to the key switch. make sure it has power going in. I think the one you should be concerned with is red, but since I haven't seen anything specific about your car on this post, and most GM will have red or orange wires here, that's the wire to check. If it's sending power to the key switch, but the other wires are not sending power back out when it's set to run, you know the key mechanism is the issue. If this does have power, move on to the fuses in the inside that are on the left side of the dash. Checking all these things so far should point to the culprit. If not, come back with everything you have found out so far and we'll think of something else....
Let us know what it is if you find it.
HTH
Mike<br />\'99 Z28 LS1 (383 in the works) M6<br /><a href=\"http://members.fbody.com/drmilhouse/\" target=\"_blank\">stereo pics</a> Almost sold, the amps are still for sale - make an offer.<br /><a href=\"http://members.fbody.com/drmilhouse/paypal.html\" target=\"_blank\">Help Mike pay for his engine. Every dollar helps!</a>
I am sure you have checked but just in case are you sure the trans is in park if you have an auto?
RED 1995 CAMARO 3.4L<br />Moroso cai, ASP Underdrive Pulleys, B&M Shifter, Flowmaster 80-Series Muffler, Polygraphite Sway Bar Bushings, Endlinks, and Panhard Rod Bushings
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