I just got some new NGK TR6s and Taylor wires. What is involved in changing them out? I hear people say that it is a p.i.t.a. to change, so any pointers would be apreciated.
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What is involved in changing spark plugs and wires?
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What is involved in changing spark plugs and wires?
Carlos<br />1999 White Pontiac Firebird 3.8<br />Mods: Yes, I got some, but not enough.<p>CFFB# 90<p>1/4: 14.93<br />MPH: 92.44<p>My car:<br /><a href=\"http://www.99birdv6.cz28.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.99birdv6.cz28.com</a><p>\"Real men drive 5-speeds.\"Tags: None
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An act of God.
And a jack and some jack stands. I haven't done the plugs because I didn't feel like dealing with it any more after the wires. But the wires are a pain. One thing that helped me out is number the new wires like the old one. I pulled one whole side out at a time and just changed one wire at a time in the holders(a pain to get off). Use that gel stuff so if you have to change the plugs again they won't be stuck on. Other than that all I can say is have ALOT of cuss words ready, they really help them come off. You'll eventually start to make words up. Good luck1998 Red RS 3.8l A4<br /> Whisper - K&N - N20 - 1LE Panhard - Ghetto STB - 255/50ZR16 Ecsta<br /> Removed grille - Limo tint - blackouts - A-pillar cf a/f ratio<br /> Panasonic DF88 - 1 12\" Eclipse 88120.4 - Eclipse 3322 amp<p><a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/raven_rs\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/raven_rs</a>
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I slaped mine in in about 2 hours. Frst i put the camaro on those ramps that raise your car like 6-8 inches off the ground.popped the hood started with the two in the back. remember do them 1 at a time so you don't cross cables. the i crawled from under the car and did the front ones for this i used the extension on my socket wrench.then crawled back unde and did the hardest oneslst the two in the middle. and your done. also first put the socket on first then the wrench ithelps seeing how you don't have that much space. don't forget to put anti seize on the plugs. and reset you computer if your running them gaped at .35 or else your SES light may cme on. Email me if you have any other questions. good luck! [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]96 RS <br />Zex n20, 3.23, CAI, Custom Exaust,Hurst Shifter,& 1 piece driveshaft.<p>96 Y87<br />b&m shiftimprover, 3.23, piee driveshaft, slp cai, and zex n20.<br />Representing the left side of the map 925 415 510 and all the area codes.<a href=\"http://eastbayracing.com\" target=\"_blank\">http://eastbayracing.com</a>
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Thanks for the replys fellas. I will installing them on Fri. I have the day off just in case. Now, one question, why do i have to reset the comuter? They are gapped at .35, but what does that have to do with it? Again, thank you for your help.Carlos<br />1999 White Pontiac Firebird 3.8<br />Mods: Yes, I got some, but not enough.<p>CFFB# 90<p>1/4: 14.93<br />MPH: 92.44<p>My car:<br /><a href=\"http://www.99birdv6.cz28.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.99birdv6.cz28.com</a><p>\"Real men drive 5-speeds.\"
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WELL, if you had tubular exhaust manifolds like us 2000+ guys have plugs would only take about 30 minutes. Good luck anyhow. I did plugs on my dads 99 and it SUCKED hardcore.2001 Black S10 Xtreme 4.3L A4<br />*RedLineVSix*<br />\"Throwin sparks, draggin frame\"
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The spark plugs are supposed to be gapped at .60 not .35 but it runs fine at .35. he computer MAY need to be reset, Because you now have a smaller spark and may not burn all the fuel and set off a sensor ao to be safe just reset the computer. Or hell you might be lucky and it won't go on but if it does just reset the computer. [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]96 RS <br />Zex n20, 3.23, CAI, Custom Exaust,Hurst Shifter,& 1 piece driveshaft.<p>96 Y87<br />b&m shiftimprover, 3.23, piee driveshaft, slp cai, and zex n20.<br />Representing the left side of the map 925 415 510 and all the area codes.<a href=\"http://eastbayracing.com\" target=\"_blank\">http://eastbayracing.com</a>
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all i can say is ------dotn make any plans for that day. Get some patience some bandaids and good look2001 SOM Camaro SS<p>Direct flo lid---Lakewood LCAs----Edelbrock Torque Arm-----Lous Short Stick---Dynomouth 3\" Exhaust---SLP Center Mount Exhaust---Poly tranny and torque arm mounts.<p>My site....http://community.webshots.com/album/49413018hRfdbP
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i think you should move this to the technical archive...i don't know how many times i've tried to look up info on the spark plugs...ha, not that i've changed them that many times, but i've had to look around several times to find the best advice in changing both the plugs and the wires. thx in advance if you do decide to move it.2000 NBM M6 Camaro Z28<br />323/335
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by lants83:
what is the deal with the anti-seize stuff. i didnt use any on my. Am i going to regret that in the future?<hr></blockquote>Don't worry, you'll be fine. It's good preventive maintenance. Just like di-electric grease inside the boots.\'94 Camaro 3.4<br />\"No, Starvin Marvin. That\'s my pot pie.\"
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Actually, anti-aeize is the stuff you put on the threads of the plug to help it go in easir, and also make them come out easier in the future. If you've never had a plug break off in your block while trying to change it, trust me, it's a pain! Anti-zieze will make it where down the road they will come out without huge fight. Di-electric grease is the stuff you put inside the plug wire boo. It displaces moisture and such so your wires will last longer without rust, corrosion, etc.<a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a> THE SOURCE!
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