!!Veredict I swear, there should be a special section for seafoam. EKKK! *UPDATE*

[MattM450]

maybe get an engine flush? i dont know, im kind of worried about using it on my car because we bought a lemon and just spent $1500 fixing various parts and getting it to pass inspection..mine is a 95 3.4 and i dont know if i should put it in the oil because my car had been overheating and the oil may be cooked...then again i dont want to wait another 3k miles...

[ December 19, 2005, 12:56 AM: Message edited by: MattM450 ]

[98Camaro3.8]

Originally posted by BLLDOGG:
i know that with closed loop, the sensors arent taken into consideration but i didnt realize there was a time period during any start up. is that like a self check thing?

When the engine is first started, it's in open loop mode, where the O2s are ignored. It takes a little while for the sensors to heat up to their working mode, plus the engine has to be at a certain temp (ECT).

At normal air temperatures, it'll be at least 150 seconds before it goes into closed loop, depending on how fast the engine heats up.

Note that this is all for 3.8s....I really don't know if 3.4s are the same.

Originally posted by mwh27:
On a side note, would a OBD1 scanner help this situation?

I don't really think that would help much. Maybe if you could read the AFR as read by the PCM, but I don't know if you can do that with the 3.4.

[Camaro Dom]

yipe! sounds like u got sum major probs there guy... well, i'm kinda subscribing to blldogg's line of thinking that maybe u busted loose a big ol chunk of carbon. try goin to a shop and gettin that baby flushed, and take a look at ur cat. the flush wouldn't hurt if ya wanna just make sure theres nothing floating around in there, and you very well may have busted enuf stuff loose to plug the cat. oh, and make sure u retightened down that vacuum line, that may be part of whats makin ya stall. i dunno that sucks dude. just somethoughts.

[3.4 slow to go]

coming in late on this, but did you let the car sit after you first gave it the treatment? I seafoamed my bird (w/3.4 swap) and my 95 blazer and didn't experiance any of the problems you've gotten. I was thinking about a clogged cat, but since it idles fine & revs upto 4k......... but you also say it starts bogging once there's a load on it. Recheck the booster line connection (caint hurt) and....it's late, I'll think of someting later

[mwh27]

^^ Yes I let it sit, and I have already checked the booster line.

If anything, maybe taking the line OFF would help it? it sounds and smells like its running rich, with Seafoam that is.

So maybe when I put a load on the engine(IE: press the gas), it dumps more fuel in, PLUS the already seafoam, thus stalling my car? But if I were to just take off the booster line, then it could get as much air as it desires?

IDK, think its worth chaning out the 2 O2 sensors tommorow.....?

[Camaro Dom]

that booster line is a vacuum... you take off that line and you'll stall out every time you hit the brakes plus who knows what else... vacuum lines confuse the hell outta me.
i would seriously check that cat. mine went bad and i couldnt get it above 4k before the backpressure started shooting back into the engine and making it act weird. you say it still smells like seafoam, so maybe it'll just take a while for the motor to burn it all off, or you could (again) flush it and hope fer the best.
and i dunno y anyone didnt say this earlier: y not call the company? i'm sure they would know at least SOMETHING about it, i mean, after all, they make the sheit.

[StrtRacer98]

[QUOTEI guess i'll drop $50 and get 2 new O2 sensors ] [/QUOTE]

If you can find two O2 sensors for 50 bucks let me know ... everywhere i look they are bout 80 bucks a pop

[mwh27]

^^^^
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/oxygen-sens...OS01001/349430

[mwh27]

Originally posted by 98Camaro3.8:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by BLLDOGG:
i know that with closed loop, the sensors arent taken into consideration but i didnt realize there was a time period during any start up. is that like a self check thing?

When the engine is first started, it's in open loop mode, where the O2s are ignored. It takes a little while for the sensors to heat up to their working mode, plus the engine has to be at a certain temp (ECT).

At normal air temperatures, it'll be at least 150 seconds before it goes into closed loop, depending on how fast the engine heats up.

Note that this is all for 3.8s....I really don't know if 3.4s are the same.
</font>[/QUOTE]Instresting.... because I started it up just now, and it ran fine, reved to 4k and so on. But then after it got above 160(so the needle moved a lil) it went all crazy like.

::runs to pep boys for new O2 sensors::

[Need4Camaro]

Originally posted by mwh27:
^^^

I got gas last night, but I didn't put any additives in it. 93 pump Mobile.

Wires have 25k on them, plugs have about 20? miles on them.

I have a 94, I've never seen a SES light.

54k miles.

Just a note, although I'm not sure this would be the case and point of your problem here, Premium Octane can clog up V6 Fuel Injectors...Not because it's too much Octane no... However your Compression Ratio is so low that the extra octane is not burned as it should be and literally dries up around the fuel injectors each time you turn your engine off due to #1 the Injector not being as large as it should be for Premium Octane, and #2 Excessive Octane that is not burned properly by the V6 clogs around the injectors... I know a local V6 who has went through 12 Fuel Injectors this far because he refused to put use 87 octane... He finally switched back to 87 and his problems ended... The only time you should run higher Octane is when your car is detonating, or the owners manual says your car will actually benefit from it. Otherwise it's a waste of cash...

[shenanigans]

start it up, and run it at the highest revs you can. IF you can jsut chill at 3500, don't go anywhere.


do this for like 5 min(its a long time when you sit and do it)

If you still have problems, imo, seafoam it again. Run it in the vacuum till it stalls let it sit a bit then start it up, and run it at 3500ish for a few minutes, then go drive for a bit, and run it hard.


bad o2s shouldn't cause your problems.

Bad vacuum line on brake booster will kill your brakes.

[StrtRacer98]

HOLY H*LL- That's Cheap!
I checked that link for the oxygen sensors. . . it says for the upstream 3.4L, work on the 3.8? or no..?

[StrtRacer98]

Or not, looked closer at the photo, the harness plug is different than the one i have on my car.

[mwh27]

Originally posted by shenanigans:
start it up, and run it at the highest revs you can. IF you can jsut chill at 3500, don't go anywhere.


do this for like 5 min(its a long time when you sit and do it)

If you still have problems, imo, seafoam it again. Run it in the vacuum till it stalls let it sit a bit then start it up, and run it at 3500ish for a few minutes, then go drive for a bit, and run it hard.


bad o2s shouldn't cause your problems.

Bad vacuum line on brake booster will kill your brakes.

Heh, I can sit at 3.5k for about 4 min, I guess I'll seafoam the rest of it....

[98Camaro3.8]

Originally posted by mwh27:
Heh, I can sit at 3.5k for about 4 min, I guess I'll seafoam the rest of it....

Does it still smoke when you sit there revving?