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Ok so Im smart enough to find one of these at the store, but how the hell do i get the old one off? I can loosen it and get the drivebelt off but I cant figure out how to get this off. Its making a lot of noise and people notice it so Id like to quite her down u know
the berring is built into the tentioner......... go the the dealer and buy the tentioner and it comes with the new wheel thing. 158$. i just did mine.
by the way ask for the 90 degree elbow for the coolent thing. trust me it will break. yes coolent runs through the tentioner. dumb gm.:twak:
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Drain the engine coolant.
- Remove the drive belt.
- Remove the generator.
- Remove the heater hoses from the drive belt tensioner.
- Remove the drive belt tensioner bolts.
Important: The drive belt tensioner must be rotated if it is difficult to remove. Pulling the tensioner from the top may damage the engine front cover. If necessary, break the plastic heater water bypass inlet pipe to allow rotation of the drive belt tensioner and replace the pipe during installation.
- Remove the drive belt tensioner.
Install:
- Install the drive belt tensioner. Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
- Install the drive belt tensioner bolts.
- Tighten
- Tighten the drive belt tensioner bolts to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).
- Install the heater hoses to the drive belt tensioner.
- Install the generator.
- Install the drive belt.
- Refill the engine coolant.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable.
uhmm... wow, the bolt that holds the tensioner pulley in is reverse thread. mine was making a noise also awhile back, and ended up nearly stranding me. i had to buy a new pulley, and was in the process of taking it off(thinking it was regural thread) and snapped the bolt. you can buy just the pulley, thats like $10... or well what it cost me before i broke the bolt. then i spent $90 on the assembly, which was awesome cuz it was originally $130 at advanced auto parts, but i guess the guy gave me a discount, or something... anyways, good luck on it.
im finding the whole tensioner set up for like 75, all i need is that one bearing!! i gotta screw with the coolant too just to replace a noisy bearing , ahhh PITA
If you want to replace the pulley/bearing just remove the belt, then remove the bolt going through the pulley (remembering its a left-hand thread as several have mentioned). I would imagine it is the bearing in this pulley squeaking, right? Otherwise if the whole tensioner assembly is loose and sloppy or whatever then you'll have to go through the whole procedure that BLLDOGG posted. No messing with the coolant to replace that $10 pulley.
\'98 Camaro V6<br />Appearance... pleasing<br />Performance... just a little extra air.
thank god, lol no its not squeaky its just very loud, kind of a rattle and its right in the bearing itself. Im waiting until i can actually start my car though to fix it... dead batteries and starters!
thanks for the help everyone
dude, its a super easy job. I would sugest getting a whole new idler tensioner assembly tho... Depending on your mileage/mods the spring in the tensioner arm will start to go, causing your belt to slip ALL the time. But I was running a SC and racing alot, so i know thats why mine went out!
Once you get the parts it takes about an hour to remove the alternator, pull the part, and put it all back. It'll take longer if you actually drain your coolant... I did it at a shop so I just let it spray! lol
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