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I got a problem, my car starts right up when it has sat over night, and it lights right off if it has been off for a few min, but if it sits for more than about 20 min it has to crank forever, and when it finaly starts the engine strugles for a few seconds, before it runs normaly. I think it is the fuel pressure regulator, but I can't figure out why the car has to be warm, for it to do it. The dealership said it was not a problem(of course). So I checked it at work, and the fuel pressure, with the car off, but the key in the on postion was 45psi. My manual says it should be 49-55. So do you think that is it, and what does one of these cost, and how bad is it to install?
Turbocharged and intercooled.<br />17psi(oops), stock fuel pump, no FMU<br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/phoenix64\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/phoenix64</a> <br />Video: <a href=\"ftp://ftp.pfabrication.com\" target=\"_blank\">ftp://ftp.pfabrication.com</a> Assorted car ****: TurboCamaroFull.
I don't know if the 99 has a different setup than my 96, but I removed my fuel rails once and reinstalled them without any problem(s). On my 96 3.8, the fuel pressure regulator is on the top of the engine, driver's side. It was a little tough getting my hands around the top rear of the engine because of the cowl, but nothing serious.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by phoenix64: So I have to remove the whole fuel rail? or can I just remove the pressure regulator?<hr></blockquote>
There's an internal snap ring holding the regulator into the opening in the rail. And guess which way it's facing... yep, away from you, towards the firewall. You might be able to get it out, but it would be tough. Plus there are some o-rings, screens, and gaskets that have to go back in there just so. It would be hard to make sure everything was back in there right.
Mine holds 45 at key-on also. Drops to 40 at idle, when vacuum is developed. It's probably ok.
You may have one or more injectors leaking down when it sits. That would make it hard to start after they leak down. Holding the throttle open for the first couple of seconds of cranking would probably help clear out the residual fuel in the intake.
Also if the plugs are fouled, or gapped too big (worn), you may get hard starting after a heat soak cycle.
The car has brand new plugs, so thats not it. Could you remover the fuel pressure regulator, and replace it with a direct line, to a super fmu? I'm going to get one for my supercharger, and it say that you can eliminate the stock pressure regulator, but you have to be able to run a fuel line from where the stock FPR mounted. Any way could that work?
Turbocharged and intercooled.<br />17psi(oops), stock fuel pump, no FMU<br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/phoenix64\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/phoenix64</a> <br />Video: <a href=\"ftp://ftp.pfabrication.com\" target=\"_blank\">ftp://ftp.pfabrication.com</a> Assorted car ****: TurboCamaroFull.
Hi, everyone. We bought a 97 base model convertible Camaro and someone broke the motor ... Lights were blinking on the dash and that someone ignored the...
Still trying to find oil leak on my Camaro, it’s a tough one. I think it is the oil pressure sender myself. Leaking when raving and going into boost....
4 days ago
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