It was a crisp summers evening when all hell broke loose....so i suppose the problem started on my way to getting a carwash and some gas for my 93 3.4 firebird.... the ABS light came on and stayed on, on the way to the car wash. Then i went through the car wash and as i was leaving it suddenly the ABS turned off and the SES light came on. I was infuriated since i absolutely loath that light. Anyhow, my car was still running ok, at least i think, as i went to get some gas. I filled up with 93 premium as usual and started home, SES light still on. This is when my car really started acting up. The throttle response was horrific, like i was driving a four banger or some ****. When i accelerated, the engine would shake, rattle, and sputter. I aborted my destination of home and a delicious bean and cheese burrito and figured i should head on over to advance auto for a scan of that code. I got there and they blantly told me they couldn't do a 93, but that autozone across the street could (how noble of them right?) I was getting aggrivated in general at this point. Autozone was of no help either. After repeating myself for a third time to explain my car was a firebird and not a thunderbird the scanning key didn't even work on my car. I went home with the light still on and my car weak as she's ever been. Got home tried to scan manually, didn't work either. Checked the engine. Everything seemed to be in tact. This story is like a murder mystery. From the ABS light, to the SES directly after the car wash, to the shaky engine directly after filling up with gas. I need all of your help to solve this mystery and give my baby some justice. Any ideas of whats wrong or why? thanx - Maximus
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Tales from the Crypt
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Re: Tales from the Crypt
From a fellow 3.4 friend I offer the following analysis/fix based on my own experience when I had the SAME EXACT problem.
Materials:
Wire brush (maybe $3)
Electrical connection spray cleaner (maybe $2 fi-ddy)
10mm socket (I believe it was) and a couple extensions
Fix:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Remove the Throttle Body Linkage Cover--it's that half-round black thing on the side of the throttle body
3. CAREFULLY disconnect the electrical connections to the ICM (ignition control module) that sits under the 3 coil packs. Note one is very visible and the other one is located almost directly under the throttle body and can be a bit tricky to reach.
3.b. <EDIT> I forgot to mention the importance of clearly labeling each and every spark plug wire with a number before pulling them off the coils. It only takes a few minutes and gives major piece of mind when it comes time to put them back on. This is also true of the coils; clearly note each and every post on all 3 coils and the corresponding spark plug wire. Nothing is worse than 'finishing' a job only to discover that you don't remember what goes where. Just do it and be happy at how easy it is to reconnect them.
4. Remove all spark plug wires and all 3 coil packs. There are 2 long screws holding each one in. After removing the screws simply pull up on the coils to slide them off the ICM connector. Be sure to set them somewhere in the order you took them off. This way you can put them on the same way and also reference them should you find something funny looking on the ICM.
5. Remove the ICM.
6. Spay the coil pack studs--where you connect the spark plug wires--with electrical cleaner and scrub with the wire brush. Do the same for the ICM; get everything as clean as possible.
7. Spay the ICM connectors mentioned in Step 3 with the electrical cleaner.
8. CAREFULLY re-install the ICM and coil packs.
9. Plug in the ICM.
10. Connect the battery.
If this does not solve your problem it is possible you could have a bad coil, or it could be something totally unrelated, but atleast you will be able to eliminate dirty/wet coils/ICM from your list. Plus, when you do get it running correctly again you will notice a difference if your coils are old and you have never performed this cleaning.
Pardon the step-by-step if you are already familiar with these parts, I did this for the benefit of future searches of people with all levels of knowledge with the 3.4.
Good luck!Last edited by 93Bird_250k; 05-31-2007, 07:04 PM.
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Re: Tales from the Crypt
Electric contact cleaner isn't bad but the coilpack and ICM connections could be cleaned to shiny metal with sandpaper fairly easily, then cleanup the dust/debris with a damp towel, and coat with dielectric grease
one way to check a coilpack is to take an ohmeter (multimeter in ohms setting) to the 2 studs on each coilpack. Not sure what the value is supposed to be for the 3.4's but if they AREN'T all really close then you know something is wrong. I dunno if there are other things that could cause a coilpack to be bad but still have the right resistance, there could be, but it doesn't hurt to test em when you have em out.
if you DO find you have a bad coil don't just buy one at retail or go generic, I got all 3 replaced with AC Delco ones for $55 shipped see here:
http://forum.camarov6.com/showthread.php?t=80203
(the 3.4 might even use the same coilpacks)
Originally posted by tkoforpresidentAfter repeating myself for a third time to explain my car was a firebird and not a thunderbird the scanning key didn't even work on my car.Last edited by cybercide; 05-31-2007, 09:33 PM.
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Re: Tales from the Crypt
^ My brother had a problem with his jet chip many years ago. He has a 94' Z28. After installation, the car wouldn't start. Take it out and see if that is really the problem or not.2004 CE Corvette 10.86@132mph
1996 Supercharged/Nitrous Camaro RS (For Sale)
2011 Cadillac CTS-V
2011 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT-P
2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
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