manual fan switch?

[blackbyrd]

is there a better way to run the wire through the fire wall than taking out the pcm like the instructions say?

[blackbyrd]

oh and another question i would rather use on off switch and run on high when i use it. can anyone tell me which wires i need to use i already have the correct switch. just need to know wich wires
liek what to do with the red white and the 3 black ones

[calvo]

you can run the wires across the fire wall to the driver side and there shoult be a plugwith a 10mm screw holding it in. if you unscrew it and un plug it the wire can go into the cab from there. and about the on/off only than you would only need a switch with 3 post on the back go power ground and one to the high fan signal only or just follow the instructions an only use the high side only. also some times ath check engine light will come on after installed. mine did and could not get rid of it so i just took it out. becarfull if you turn the car off it can drain the battery real quick on high. hope this info is helpfull [img]graemlins/fluffy.gif[/img]

[ravenp]

I ran mine through on the drivers side too.

Here's pics and instructions I used...

http://members.rogers.com/ravenp/fanmod.htm

Good luck.

[jonny985]

I used the same site as ravenp and it worked great. I would definatly recommend using the hole behind the PCM, its not that hard to get to.

[blackbyrd]

ok the switch that slp sent has six prongs on the back and only 5 wires but three of the five are ground wires

i understodo that the fans run by controlling the ground wich makes me assume that the part withthe 2 ground wires is high

ight i already have switches that i want to use instead of the three way, but it only has 2 prongs on the back.


how can i hook up the wires to the one way 2 prong switch and make it run on high all the time.

can any one help at all on this

[blackbyrd]

can anyone help on this one

[lord_gufi]

i did the free manual fans and the fan lines are hot... for what i can tell any way because to test which lines it was i took a metal screw and wraped a grounded wire around it and poked the green wires till i found the right one and then i just used the little bulb wire in the ash tray for the ground and thats where my switch is, in the ash tray, =D i found a way to keep those damn smokers out of my car... then they figured out the windows worked just as well =(

[Backfire]

Are you going to use any lighting with your switch? If not, you should be able to take the hot wiring from the two relays into one terminal and a ground wire into the other terminal. That should close both relays when in the on position, and open them both when in the off position. If that is all you were looking to do, it would probably have been easier to build an wire it yourself rather buy the SLP setup.

If the wiring for the SLP switch looks similar to this: Fan wiring, I would try the following. You need to connect a ground wire to one of the terminals. If the switch is wired similar to the diagram, it shouldn't matter which one, because they are all connected. If not, from the image on SLPOnline, it looks like one of the ground wires has a terminal which you attach to the chassis somewhere. Use the other end of that to attach to the switch. Then take the two hot wires from the relays and connect them to the other terminal. That should give you the on/off on high operation you are looking for.

[ October 17, 2002: Message edited by: Backfire ]</p>

[blackbyrd]

thank you very much backfire

i thought that would work (not being good with wiring i wanted advice first) any way to get the light to work with it though for my switch panel?

but let me get this straight

the wires to the slp switch are red white and black five wires al together but three are black and are ground. all i need to do is run the red and white switch to one connector of the switch and the ground to the other and it will run on high when i flick the switch.

(there is a connector in the wire like a foot from the swich out of that conncector is only 3 wires (the ones i described earlier) so the ground splits in to 3 seperate wires then connects to prongs on the back of the slp switch. but all i need is one for the fan to fan switch to work

[Backfire]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by blackbyrd:
thank you very much backfire<hr></blockquote>
Always like to help!
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>i thought that would work (not being good with wiring i wanted advice first) any way to get the light to work with it though for my switch panel?<hr></blockquote>
Does the SLP switch have any lighting built in? If there is no pre-existing wiring from the SLP harness, you need to find a +12V source to use. What you wind up doing is use the switch to ground the LED circuit along with the fan relays. Connect the LED and appropriate resistor(s) to a 12V source. Then connect the other end to the same terminal on the switch as the relays. It won't work to put the LED in series with the relay wires. Doing that prevents the relay from "seeing" the needed 12V to properly control it. You need the LED wiring to be in parallel with the relay, that is why a separate 12V source is needed. And easy one to tap is normally the cigarette lighter.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>the wires to the slp switch are red white and black five wires al together but three are black and are ground. all i need to do is run the red and white switch to one connector of the switch and the ground to the other and it will run on high when i flick the switch.

(there is a connector in the wire like a foot from the swich out of that conncector is only 3 wires (the ones i described earlier) so the ground splits in to 3 seperate wires then connects to prongs on the back of the slp switch. but all i need is one for the fan to fan switch to work<hr></blockquote>
I haven't seen the harness but I would assume that your guess is correct; red and white are the two relay control wires, and the black wires are ground. Does your wiring harness have the ring terminal on one of the black wires like the picture does? If so, then you need to connect any black wire that is attached to that ring terminal in some way, whether directly or spliced, to the new switch terminal. Based on how you described it, I would think that any of the black wires which attach to the SLP switch originally, should work for your switch. Then, connect the red and white wires, along with the LED wiring as described earlier, to the other terminal on the new switch.

[ October 18, 2002: Message edited by: Backfire ]</p>

[Ted]

Installing it through the firewall isn't bad at all. Pretty easy. Only thing I hate about the fan switch is if you forget and leave it on. I drilled a whole in my ashtray cover for mine and sometimes I hit it with my knee and don't realize it. Then your battery runs down when you come back to your car. Why do you want to install one now anyway? It's almost winter.

[blackbyrd]

bad timing i guess been wanting to do it for a while but just now found funds so i thought waht the heck.

ok getting the led to work. right now all the lights are grounded (i hav efive switches with lights) so waht i need to do is reverse the order for that one switch like instead of putting the wire to the frame i need to put it to a cig lighter and leave the one that is on the switch there with the grounds from the fan switch. hey could i use the wire form the light that lights up the transmission panel or would it be better to stick with the cig lighter. if i understood you correctly that isnt to complicated.

[Backfire]

simple wiring diagram

That is a simple idea of what you could try. The +12V source should be from something that stays on whether the interior lights are on or off. I don't know if the shifter panel lights positive wire is hot when the lights are off. Unless you don't want the panel LEDs to light up when the interior lights are off.

[blackbyrd]

sweet! hey man thanks for the diagram