Welcome to the FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com forums.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
For the last week when I'm driving on the highway, my air conditioner will suddenly start blowing noticeably warmer air and the car will loose power. It doesn't feel like it's missing a cylinder and I'm not getting any codes, but it definitely goes sluggish. It only does it for a few seconds, then the air is instantly cold again and the car runs fine.
I'm thinking that your air condition compressor might be seizing up which would explain both the loss in power (dragging down the engine) and the loss of cooling.
Any weird noises and such?
It's either that, or you have an electrical problem that is disengaging the A/C clutch as well as affecting some system that gives you the engine power loss, like fuel pump or ignition. What is your volt gauge doing during these events?
Now Playing: \'99 Pewter Firebird, stock, bone stock, and nothing but stock, so help me God!<br />Comming attractions: K&N Filter, Lid Mod, Intake Bellows Smooth Pipe Mod.<br />I dream about: Forced Induction (TC or SC) or NOX (or both!)
Sounds like what one of my cars did. The clutch on the compressor was locking up while it was working thus quitting and blowing hot air. Easy way to tell is have someone rev the engine a little and watch the compressor you'll see if it's seizing or not.
Let's flip a coin. Heads I get tail, Tails I get head.
No noises at all. I would think a seizing compressor would cause the belt to slip more that dragging the engine down, but I'm unsure.
The voltage gauge don't change.
There is one thing the car has always done. Any time I'm at a dead stop and punch it, the air blows warmer. Even though the air warms, it doesn't feel like there's any more loss of power than one would expect to experience with the air on.
Let me guess... a compressor is ungodly expensive. It's 100+ degrees here; don't need to have the air go out now.
It may not squeal that much mine didn't. I believe, maybe not all years, there is a automatic shutoff under full throttle to give better performance. IDK though. Not sure on the prices just jump on Autozone or something and see.
Let's flip a coin. Heads I get tail, Tails I get head.
Let me guess... a compressor is ungodly expensive. It's 100+ degrees here; don't need to have the air go out now.
You got that right, it's probably the worst thing that could happen to your ac. Getting it charged and/or fixing a leak (usually gasket or hose) costs nothing compared with getting a new compressor installed. It's like $300 for the thing and then however much the average mechanic is going to rip you off for, I know that a major chain is going to want an arm & leg for this. You may be better off finding a no-name shop that someone you trust recommends (ask your friends!) if the compressor blows.
Good, cause I just had to replace the A/C compressor on my Bonneville and I got quoted at $765 for the repair and recharge, my cousin works there and that is even with his parts discount. What the @#$%?? So I said to hell with that, got a compressor off this guy I know in town that is a huge pack rat for $180, and did it myself. Gotta love it.
Don't go by just watching it while its running. The internals of the compressor might be ok, but the bearings that support the clutch might be on the verge of packing it in.
Remove the belt and with your hand roll the 2 parts of the A/C clutch over. First do the outer clutch (the part with the pully) and then do the inner driven assembly (thats the part that doesn't rotate when the Air Conditioning is not turned on). They should both rotate smoothly with no roughness, grabbing or noise.
Now Playing: \'99 Pewter Firebird, stock, bone stock, and nothing but stock, so help me God!<br />Comming attractions: K&N Filter, Lid Mod, Intake Bellows Smooth Pipe Mod.<br />I dream about: Forced Induction (TC or SC) or NOX (or both!)
Hey everyone! I've been trying to remove my transmission for two days now! I need to replace the clutch. Only thing I've got left holding the transmission...
Hello, so I changed the front bearings on the bird and the ABS inoperative light came on. I made a mistake of not removing negative battery cable. Now...
I usually have to double, triple my headlight switch for them to come up on my 97 Firebird. I cleaned all connections. Could it be the headlight switch...
4 weeks ago
FORUM SPONSORS
Collapse
Working...
X
We process personal data about users of our site, through the use of cookies and other technologies, to deliver our services, personalize advertising, and to analyze site activity. We may share certain information about our users with our advertising and analytics partners. For additional details, refer to our Privacy Policy.
By clicking "I AGREE" below, you agree to our Privacy Policy and our personal data processing and cookie practices as described therein. You also acknowledge that this forum may be hosted outside your country and you consent to the collection, storage, and processing of your data in the country where this forum is hosted.
Tweet
Comment